Salt Water Tank
- Thread starter Frogki
- Start date
ok let me attempt to answer the questions.
1. HOB doesnt have to be an Aquaclear. w/e you can find for cheap that puts out a lot of flow will work. as long as its not too small and can hold medium bags of media. i'd say buy something raerd for 30-40 gals.
2. HOBs can be found in most LFS.
3. Chemi pure can usually be found online.
4. Chemi pure is not necessary. its a tad expensive but it probably worth going the extra mile. Active carbon and Purigen will work as well. If you choose purigen youll likely need active carbon as well. I mentioned Phosban or something like that. I meant PURIGEN. but i think phosban is good to keep phosphates out of your system. All these help reduce nitrates and phosphates as well as any other impurities in the system, like toxins/chemicals leached by livestock or corals (which you may or may not deal with)
5. The above chemical media is not absolutely mandatory, but can greatly help keep your water very clean.
6. filter floss can be found at any LFS I believe. it does not come as standard media in the filter. I advise you use only floss for the entire cycle, and then keep using floss after the cycle.
7. Dont forget to replace ALL of the floss each week in the least. this is why you only need to put a bit at a time into your HOB filter. like I said it helps catch stray sand/ debris that you will want to take out of your tank.
8. You do not use any of the supplied media during cycling. the foam/sponge that usually comes with the HOB is relatively useless in SW. save it for your FW application when needed. When you get the HOB, take everything out and just run it with a bit of filter floss like I said.
9. once your cycle is done you just put your chemical media in the HOB filter. on top place your floss and youre set. DO NOT use chemical media during the cycle.
10, once again during cycling you run no media other than floss. after cycling is done then add chemical and thats it. all other media supplied with the HOB is not needed. the main point of these devices for SW is FLOW. a secondary function can be the purpose of containing chemical media.
I told you all I know from starting my SW tank. I wish you luck, and I hope you get more advice from others on here
1. HOB doesnt have to be an Aquaclear. w/e you can find for cheap that puts out a lot of flow will work. as long as its not too small and can hold medium bags of media. i'd say buy something raerd for 30-40 gals.
2. HOBs can be found in most LFS.
3. Chemi pure can usually be found online.
4. Chemi pure is not necessary. its a tad expensive but it probably worth going the extra mile. Active carbon and Purigen will work as well. If you choose purigen youll likely need active carbon as well. I mentioned Phosban or something like that. I meant PURIGEN. but i think phosban is good to keep phosphates out of your system. All these help reduce nitrates and phosphates as well as any other impurities in the system, like toxins/chemicals leached by livestock or corals (which you may or may not deal with)
5. The above chemical media is not absolutely mandatory, but can greatly help keep your water very clean.
6. filter floss can be found at any LFS I believe. it does not come as standard media in the filter. I advise you use only floss for the entire cycle, and then keep using floss after the cycle.
7. Dont forget to replace ALL of the floss each week in the least. this is why you only need to put a bit at a time into your HOB filter. like I said it helps catch stray sand/ debris that you will want to take out of your tank.
8. You do not use any of the supplied media during cycling. the foam/sponge that usually comes with the HOB is relatively useless in SW. save it for your FW application when needed. When you get the HOB, take everything out and just run it with a bit of filter floss like I said.
9. once your cycle is done you just put your chemical media in the HOB filter. on top place your floss and youre set. DO NOT use chemical media during the cycle.
10, once again during cycling you run no media other than floss. after cycling is done then add chemical and thats it. all other media supplied with the HOB is not needed. the main point of these devices for SW is FLOW. a secondary function can be the purpose of containing chemical media.
I told you all I know from starting my SW tank. I wish you luck, and I hope you get more advice from others on here
ok let me attempt to answer the questions.
1. HOB doesnt have to be an Aquaclear. w/e you can find for cheap that puts out a lot of flow will work. as long as its not too small and can hold medium bags of media. i'd say buy something raerd for 30-40 gals.
2. HOBs can be found in most LFS.
3. Chemi pure can usually be found online.
4. Chemi pure is not necessary. its a tad expensive but it probably worth going the extra mile. Active carbon and Purigen will work as well. If you choose purigen youll likely need active carbon as well. I mentioned Phosban or something like that. I meant PURIGEN. but i think phosban is good to keep phosphates out of your system. All these help reduce nitrates and phosphates as well as any other impurities in the system, like toxins/chemicals leached by livestock or corals (which you may or may not deal with)
5. The above chemical media is not absolutely mandatory, but can greatly help keep your water very clean.
6. filter floss can be found at any LFS I believe. it does not come as standard media in the filter. I advise you use only floss for the entire cycle, and then keep using floss after the cycle.
7. Dont forget to replace ALL of the floss each week in the least. this is why you only need to put a bit at a time into your HOB filter. like I said it helps catch stray sand/ debris that you will want to take out of your tank.
8. You do not use any of the supplied media during cycling. the foam/sponge that usually comes with the HOB is relatively useless in SW. save it for your FW application when needed. When you get the HOB, take everything out and just run it with a bit of filter floss like I said.
9. once your cycle is done you just put your chemical media in the HOB filter. on top place your floss and you're set. DO NOT use chemical media during the cycle.
10, once again during cycling you run no media other than floss. after cycling is done then add chemical and thats it. all other media supplied with the HOB is not needed. the main point of these devices for SW is FLOW. a secondary function can be the purpose of containing chemical media.
I told you all I know from starting my SW tank. I wish you luck, and I hope you get more advice from others on here
1. HOB doesnt have to be an Aquaclear. w/e you can find for cheap that puts out a lot of flow will work. as long as its not too small and can hold medium bags of media. i'd say buy something raerd for 30-40 gals.
2. HOBs can be found in most LFS.
3. Chemi pure can usually be found online.
4. Chemi pure is not necessary. its a tad expensive but it probably worth going the extra mile. Active carbon and Purigen will work as well. If you choose purigen youll likely need active carbon as well. I mentioned Phosban or something like that. I meant PURIGEN. but i think phosban is good to keep phosphates out of your system. All these help reduce nitrates and phosphates as well as any other impurities in the system, like toxins/chemicals leached by livestock or corals (which you may or may not deal with)
5. The above chemical media is not absolutely mandatory, but can greatly help keep your water very clean.
6. filter floss can be found at any LFS I believe. it does not come as standard media in the filter. I advise you use only floss for the entire cycle, and then keep using floss after the cycle.
7. Dont forget to replace ALL of the floss each week in the least. this is why you only need to put a bit at a time into your HOB filter. like I said it helps catch stray sand/ debris that you will want to take out of your tank.
8. You do not use any of the supplied media during cycling. the foam/sponge that usually comes with the HOB is relatively useless in SW. save it for your FW application when needed. When you get the HOB, take everything out and just run it with a bit of filter floss like I said.
9. once your cycle is done you just put your chemical media in the HOB filter. on top place your floss and you're set. DO NOT use chemical media during the cycle.
10, once again during cycling you run no media other than floss. after cycling is done then add chemical and thats it. all other media supplied with the HOB is not needed. the main point of these devices for SW is FLOW. a secondary function can be the purpose of containing chemical media.
I told you all I know from starting my SW tank. I wish you luck, and I hope you get more advice from others on here
lol didnt see the posts on the 2nd page sorry.
If you are a bit low on money then take Tre's advice.
the main point is flow. the rock is the main filtration.
Chemical media are the pouches with stuff such as active carbon in them. I use chemi pure cuz it can keep the water free of nitrates in a small tank. I endorse no addtion of CHEMICALS into your water lol!. I simply mean the media that acts chemically on your water to adsorb bad stuff like nitrates, phosphates and stuff from livestock.
Your main concern while starting is the live rock and flow of the powerheads. This is why I said to worry about the chemical media stuff only after youre done cycling the tank, and youve stocked it with some livestock.
the chemical media gets put into the HOB filter because thanks to the filter, the tank's water is able to flow over the media and the media can take out impurities. idk why I'm explaining this in such detail cuz its the same exact concept for FW tanks, which you should be more than familiar with thanks to the 70 gal
To start here are the necessary things:
A tank (lol)
Premixed water (by you so you know exactly what you want)
Refractometer (so you can measure exact salinity/Specific Gravity of the water)
Heater(s)
2 Powerheads (for water movement)
Base rock (to provide living places for the bacteria that you will be culturing in the cycle)
Live rock (to provide your initial bateria and sometimes die-off to start your cycle)
Sand (not really necessary to cycle, but since you got it already you may as well get that out of the way and add it to the tank when you begin)
Market Prawn in container with holes in the lid (provides ammonia for bacteria to grow)
SW test kit
Thermometer
Top Off System - you should be thinking of this one, unless your tank is very well covered and isnt open-top. evaporation will change salinity rapidly if you do not top off and will kill livestock and bacteria thus crashing your tank.
If you are a bit low on money then take Tre's advice.
the main point is flow. the rock is the main filtration.
Chemical media are the pouches with stuff such as active carbon in them. I use chemi pure cuz it can keep the water free of nitrates in a small tank. I endorse no addtion of CHEMICALS into your water lol!. I simply mean the media that acts chemically on your water to adsorb bad stuff like nitrates, phosphates and stuff from livestock.
Your main concern while starting is the live rock and flow of the powerheads. This is why I said to worry about the chemical media stuff only after youre done cycling the tank, and youve stocked it with some livestock.
the chemical media gets put into the HOB filter because thanks to the filter, the tank's water is able to flow over the media and the media can take out impurities. idk why I'm explaining this in such detail cuz its the same exact concept for FW tanks, which you should be more than familiar with thanks to the 70 gal
To start here are the necessary things:
A tank (lol)
Premixed water (by you so you know exactly what you want)
Refractometer (so you can measure exact salinity/Specific Gravity of the water)
Heater(s)
2 Powerheads (for water movement)
Base rock (to provide living places for the bacteria that you will be culturing in the cycle)
Live rock (to provide your initial bateria and sometimes die-off to start your cycle)
Sand (not really necessary to cycle, but since you got it already you may as well get that out of the way and add it to the tank when you begin)
Market Prawn in container with holes in the lid (provides ammonia for bacteria to grow)
SW test kit
Thermometer
Top Off System - you should be thinking of this one, unless your tank is very well covered and isnt open-top. evaporation will change salinity rapidly if you do not top off and will kill livestock and bacteria thus crashing your tank.
lol didnt see the posts on the 2nd page sorry.
If you are a bit low on money then take Tre's advice.
the main point is flow. the rock is the main filtration.
Chemical media are the pouches with stuff such as active carbon in them. I use chemi pure cuz it can keep the water free of nitrates in a small tank. I endorse no addtion of CHEMICALS into your water lol!. I simply mean the media that acts chemically on your water to adsorb bad stuff like nitrates, phosphates and stuff from livestock.
Your main concern while starting is the live rock and flow of the powerheads. This is why I said to worry about the chemical media stuff only after youre done cycling the tank, and youve stocked it with some livestock.
the chemical media gets put into the HOB filter because thanks to the filter, the tank's water is able to flow over the media and the media can take out impurities. idk why I'm explaining this in such detail cuz its the same exact concept for FW tanks, which you should be more than familiar with thanks to the 70 gal
To start here are the necessary things:
A tank (lol)
Premixed water (by you so you know exactly what you want)
Refractometer (so you can measure exact salinity/Specific Gravity of the water)
Heater(s)
2 Powerheads (for water movement)
Base rock (to provide living places for the bacteria that you will be culturing in the cycle)
Live rock (to provide your initial bateria and sometimes die-off to start your cycle)
Sand (not really necessary to cycle, but since you got it already you may as well get that out of the way and add it to the tank when you begin)
Market Prawn in container with holes in the lid (provides ammonia for bacteria to grow)
SW test kit
Thermometer
Top Off System - you should be thinking of this one, unless your tank is very well covered and isnt open-top. evaporation will change salinity rapidly if you do not top off and will kill livestock and bacteria thus crashing your tank.
If you are a bit low on money then take Tre's advice.
the main point is flow. the rock is the main filtration.
Chemical media are the pouches with stuff such as active carbon in them. I use chemi pure cuz it can keep the water free of nitrates in a small tank. I endorse no addtion of CHEMICALS into your water lol!. I simply mean the media that acts chemically on your water to adsorb bad stuff like nitrates, phosphates and stuff from livestock.
Your main concern while starting is the live rock and flow of the powerheads. This is why I said to worry about the chemical media stuff only after youre done cycling the tank, and youve stocked it with some livestock.
the chemical media gets put into the HOB filter because thanks to the filter, the tank's water is able to flow over the media and the media can take out impurities. idk why I'm explaining this in such detail cuz its the same exact concept for FW tanks, which you should be more than familiar with thanks to the 70 gal
To start here are the necessary things:
A tank (lol)
Premixed water (by you so you know exactly what you want)
Refractometer (so you can measure exact salinity/Specific Gravity of the water)
Heater(s)
2 Powerheads (for water movement)
Base rock (to provide living places for the bacteria that you will be culturing in the cycle)
Live rock (to provide your initial bateria and sometimes die-off to start your cycle)
Sand (not really necessary to cycle, but since you got it already you may as well get that out of the way and add it to the tank when you begin)
Market Prawn in container with holes in the lid (provides ammonia for bacteria to grow)
SW test kit
Thermometer
Top Off System - you should be thinking of this one, unless your tank is very well covered and isnt open-top. evaporation will change salinity rapidly if you do not top off and will kill livestock and bacteria thus crashing your tank.
SW test kit
1 crummy Powerhead (plan on replacing this later on down the road, but I've been told it'll be enough for now... Is just one enough for all the fish and stuff I want to keep?
A tank (obviously)
Sand
And that's about it so far... Anyway, I'm worried about the top, the bright lights in the wood top with no fan caused an algea bloom in freshwater... Should I replace this roof?
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you dont really need to run lights if youre not keeping coral, so I dont see why you need to replace the top... unless the bulb is old then just replace the bulb and only turn on the light when viewing the tank.
1 powerhead is likely not enough for your live stock. I would have 2 of them before adding any fish..
1 powerhead is likely not enough for your live stock. I would have 2 of them before adding any fish..
Alright, so I need to get another Power Sweeper... And one of the reasons I want to replace the roof is because of one of the fish I'm keeping... The pink bar goby could jump out pretty easily through the hole (it was cut for the filter) and I would like SOME display lights... However, if they aren't necesarry, I'm not doing it... Thank you, I'll just get another, tight fitting lid for it... Besides that, the bright lights fueled an algea bloom when the tank was a fresh water... I want some sort of display light, but I need to find one that fits in my tanks new roof, and that won't fuel an algea bloom... Or if it does, it doesn't get out of control... Uhhggg, when it was fresh water, the water literally looked like a bog... lol...
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Well, I think I'd like coralline algae, that's the nice purple kind right? I want it to have a kind of natural feel... What lights would be good for the fish, and to have coralline algae grow? I'm gonna keep snails so that that kind of algea is manageable... I'm also going to have one of those magnet algae scrapers... I'm just worried about an algae growth... Of course, when I had the tank as a fresh water, I performed no water changes and did no water tests... Sooo... lol... Anyway, thanks for all the help... I'm really looking forward to having my own SW tank...
What do you mean by roof? Do you mean a cover like a glass top? If so, I would advise against it. Something that completely covers the top can affect the oxygen exchange and temperature in the tank. A lot of people just cover their tank with egg crate. You can get it at Home Depot or any other home improvement store for like $12 for a 2 x 4 foot panel. They are usually found in the ceiling tile aisle. They work great. Just cut it to fit in the top of the tank and around any HOB items you have. Fish can't jump out through that stuff.
What I'm worried about is the holes.... See, I'm getting a pink bar goby, and those are known to jump... I've already got a roof, and it's wood, the lights are very bright and I'm afraid of them raising the temperature in the tank. Plus, there's a hole in the back for filtration equipment (because as I've said before, this tank was used for freshwater once) and I'm afraid the goby will jump out... I'll use it for now, but I'll leave the lights off and I'll try to cover the back hole... IDK, I'll replace the lights eventually and cover the back in the meantime... Ahh, what the heck... I'll look for a better top, my dad's friend can help me out...
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Alright, well, I'm heading down to the LFS today (on my bike I might add)... Gonna see if they have any supplies I can use... As I said earlier, they are small, and they basically sell the fish... However, they do have some supplies, so I'm gonna go see what they have that I need... Gonna price it too lol... Wish me luck!
Alright, well I didn't buy anything, however, I did get something... The guy who owns this place is really cool, and he is a hobbyist himself, so it's not like a chain store where the person misinforms you, knowing nothing about the subject... Anyway, we talked, and I was asking him if he had certain stuff... He's really a live rock and livestock seller, but he told me he could special order a lot of it, and when I told him about the crummy powerhead I planned on replacing, he got one of the ones they had just sitting in the back and gave it to me for free, to help start my tank... It's missing the suction cups, but it's submersible... I'm definitely gonna buy what I can from him, he's really nice, and he knows his stuff, he is a hobbyist himself (that's how he started)... Anyway, it is a really decent powerhead, he said it gave enough flow (and he showed me by putting it in a bucket from his sink, which was hooked up to an RO unit, and started mixing some water... It has very good flow) but I might buy another one.... They mix water for you, and they test your water for you. Of course, I did buy my test kits, and I have a hydrometer, but they have a refractometer, so I'll bring my water every once in a while till I get my own refractometer, seeing as hydrometers are alright for a while.
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I'm worried about the equipment... I only have power heads... And I can't afford a protein skimmer/wet dry filter... And then I think my size might be different then I thought, because I just saw a 30 gallon and it looks much larger than my tank... My tank measures 24 inch front length, 12 inch side length, and 14 inch height. Is this a 30 gallon, or near that, or am I going to have to get another tank?
Those measurments come to about 17.5 gallons but you can still use that tank! As soon as you get your rock your ready to go! I wouldnt worry about a skimmer on a tank this size...If it were me id prolly go ahead and put about 10g's of salt water in there along with your powerheads and sand for a little motivation lol... The cycle wont start just yet tho! try and get at least 1 good piece of live rock asap