New Small Tank - Nitrite Spikes

[whisperingwind]

Hi. I am new here - and new to keeping fish.

I have one betta fish that I have had for two months. He is in a 2.5 gal tank. I was using tap water with water conditioner but getting nitrite spikes (about 5.0). The fish shop in town suggested using their established water and/or their reverse osmosis water. I have tried both and within one day of replacing the water in the tank I am getting nitrite spikes at 5.0. Yesterday, I replaced all the water in his tank with established water - nitrites, zero. This evening, I tested the water - nitrites, 5.0. I replaced about 60% of the water with established water after I tested it this evening. I then tested the water again - about 4.0. My poor fish has been going through these nitrite spikes for a while now so I took him out and put him in a 1 gal tank of established water. I tested the water - nitrites, zero. This is a bandaid solution.

I am using a 2.5 gal Mr. Aqua tank (his regular tank) with a very tiny Whisper filter (small size). It has two little plastic plants in it and some marbles. (I took out the gravel thinking it was easier to keep clean and might reduce the nitrites).

I know these nitrites have to spike to go through the cycle, but my poor fish was having breathing problems yesterday and I HAD to take him out of it.

What is the solution???

 

[frankenfish]

bettas can breath air thanks to their labyrinth organ so i wouldnt worry TOO much about his breathing. how often are you doing water changes? there will always be a small spike after a water change as the tank has to re-balance itself. for a single betta i'd do about 20% of the water once a week at the most. exactly what is the filter your using?

 

[whisperingwind]

bettas can breath air thanks to their labyrinth organ so i wouldnt worry TOO much about his breathing. how often are you doing water changes? there will always be a small spike after a water change as the tank has to re-balance itself. for a single betta i'd do about 20% of the water once a week at the most. exactly what is the filter your using?

But the nitrite spikes to 5.0 in ONE day! He would be dead by now if I only changed 20% of the water once a week.

I am using the smallest Whisper filter you can find - a size 3 I believe. It says "small" on the bag.

 

[IThinkTherefore]

What happens in an aquarium cycle is that two different types of bacteria must be established. First, one converts ammonia to nitrite. This is the stuff that's established in your tank right now. 5 parts per million is about what is to be expected from a fish in a 2.5 gallon tank. What you can do is keep him in the bucket and do big daily water changes, while cycling the small aquarium with pure ammonia. There is a link to how to do this in my signature. After a while, the second type of bacteria will kick in that converts nitrite to nitrate.

2.5 gallon tanks are known to be difficult to maintain a cycle in. 5gal or bigger can be more forgiving. Also, is your tank heated? Betta like their water in the upper seventies

 

[lauraf]

Are you overfeeding?
Adding a live plant will help adsorb the nitrite - something like java moss or hornwort . . . .

 

[whisperingwind]

Are you overfeeding?
Adding a live plant will help adsorb the nitrite - something like java moss or hornwort . . . .

Plants might be a good idea.

I don't think I am overfeeding. I feed him pellets because there is no waste (other than from the betta himself) and he eats every pellet.

 

[whisperingwind]

What happens in an aquarium cycle is that two different types of bacteria must be established. First, one converts ammonia to nitrite. This is the stuff that's established in your tank right now. 5 parts per million is about what is to be expected from a fish in a 2.5 gallon tank. What you can do is keep him in the bucket and do big daily water changes, while cycling the small aquarium with pure ammonia. There is a link to how to do this in my signature. After a while, the second type of bacteria will kick in that converts nitrite to nitrate.

2.5 gallon tanks are known to be difficult to maintain a cycle in. 5gal or bigger can be more forgiving. Also, is your tank heated? Betta like their water in the upper seventies

My tank is not heated but I keep the room temperature at 73, if that helps. I suppose if the room temp is 73 then the water might be lower? Hmm . . . Does the heat help with the nitrite spikes or is it just more comfortable for the fish? What sort of heater should I buy? I am wary of putting anything electric in water. Also, if I buy one, can I use the same heater in a 5 gal tank?

If I cycle the tank with ammonia, when I put the fish back in, won't the nitrites go up again and bring me back to square one?

He is a lovely, friendly little fish and I love him. I just can't put him in 5.0 nitrites while it cycles.

He just got over ich, too - I found 3-4 spots on him. Sometimes i still think I see a few on his tail but I am not sure. I used half a drop of Quick Cure in his tank for three days. He had a hard time with that, too. Between the nitrites spiking and the QuickCure . . . poor little fish. He seems happy enough now, though. I just want to see him in his own tank/home.

I am going to get a 5 gal tank for him eventually. That might be better.

I did have another one - only had him three weeks - but he died. I think it was the nitrites. Terrible.

 

[IThinkTherefore]

Once the tank is done cycling, you will never see nitrites again as long as you take care of the tank properly.

Beneficial bacteria lives in gravel, on the glass/decorations, and especially in the filter media.

Make sure you never clean the gravel and the filter on the same day. Also, never wash your filter media in tap water - only rinse it in old tank water

73 degrees is a bit chilly for a tropical fish, especially if it drops lower at night. This can lower their immune system. I don't know if there are adjustable heaters for 2.5 gallon tanks, but if you do get a 5 gallon you should get one for sure

 

[IThinkTherefore]

Also, do you have your current parameters for nitrate and ammonia?

 

[whisperingwind]

Also, do you have your current parameters for nitrate and ammonia?

I have never had a problem with ammonia - always zero or just a hair above it (no more).

Nitrates are not a problem either. Always zero. Once, the nitrates were 5 but that was when I had gravel in the bottom of the tank. Because of all the problems with the nitrites I removed the gravel and put a few marbles in it thinking there was perhaps some waste that I couldn't get out.

Nitrites is the only problem s regards water tests.

 

[whisperingwind]

Once the tank is done cycling, you will never see nitrites again as long as you take care of the tank properly.

Beneficial bacteria lives in gravel, on the glass/decorations, and especially in the filter media.

Make sure you never clean the gravel and the filter on the same day. Also, never wash your filter media in tap water - only rinse it in old tank water

73 degrees is a bit chilly for a tropical fish, especially if it drops lower at night. This can lower their immune system. I don't know if there are adjustable heaters for 2.5 gallon tanks, but if you do get a 5 gallon you should get one for sure

I didn't know not to clean gravel and filter on the same day. I have been doing that but won't from now on. I change the filter pad as directed every two weeks. I never rinse the filter pad because it's only in there two weeks but perhaps I should.

I have an algae pad (I don't have algae) and I use it to clean off the glass when I do a water change. I have plastic plants and ornaments and rinse them all under the tap, along with the marbles.

I am beginning to think the water temp might be too cold. I will look into heaters.

It would be fabulous to never see nitrites again. This is driving me around the bend. I thought that buying established water was the answer because it is already cycled but it still gives me nitrites the day after I put it in there.

How long does it take to cycle with ammonia?

I have two lovely 2.5 gal Mr. Aqua rimless tanks. I wish I had just bought a 5 gal one now. I thought I was doing a good thing, too. A coworker bought a measly one gal jar for her betta. I told her it was cruel. Now I think my tank is too small She also uses tap water and changes it completely every other day.)

Can you recommend a good filter for the 5 gal tank? I know nothing about filters. The filter I have now says it is good for up to a 5 gal tank but I am not sure it would be sufficient. It is one that has a replaceable carbon filter that you change every two weeks. Do you do the same frequency of water changes with a 5 gal tank?

 

[MyFishyTank]

hey mate, i got a 3 gallon tank and i have the perfect heater that fits, But it depends on your tank so have a look at it.

I got a Heto HW-50W, the heat is adjustable and it goes up to 34 degrees which is 93 Fahrenheit. Hope this helps you a bit!

 

[IThinkTherefore]

For a five gallon you should only change about 25% (1 gallon) of your water a week. Easy peasy!

Your filter is probably fine. Bettas don't require a ton of filtration or water movement. But I know your problem now! When you replace your filter, you remove the vast majority of the beneficial bacteria in your tank and the cycle has to start over. From now on, only take it and rinse it in old tank water. Same for any ornaments and gravel (unless they really need a scrub).

Carbon isn't actually necessary in the aquarium, as explained here: Carbon and aquariums

They tell you to change it every two weeks to sell you more filters . What you can do is replace that with plain filter media like this: Amazon.com: Replacement Filter Media for Wet Dry and Pond Filters 12in Wide Price Per Foot: Kitchen & Dining and rinse it every once in a while. You can also put bioballs or polyester pillow batting (hypoallergenic, make sure it's not cotton or treated for mold) in the filter to hold more beneficial bacteria. That way you can rinse only one or the other each week (bioballs one week, filter pad the next, etc).

An ammonia cycle takes about two weeks total, but you're halfway there so it will probably be much less.

If you can keep the tank warm and babysit the parameters, a 2.5 gallon can be a good home for a betta

 

[frankenfish]

ITTF is right about not changing the filters. in my 5 gallon community tank i havnt changed the filter in months. actually i cant even remember the last time i changed the filter. as others have said before, just swish it around to old tank water to get rid of any big obstructions and pop it back in. you should see your nitrite problems disappear once the bacteria colony has built up in the filter. i also suggest putting the gravel back in too. more surface are = more good bacteria as they have more places to stick to.

 

[Aquatic.Sylph]

Wow, I really slack when it comes to my bettas. I have a heater in my 5g, but no filter, nothing. I scoop him out in a cup once a week and change half his water. I just take the whole darn tank to the tub, swish and scrub it with my hand, pour half the water out and fill it up again. Add water conditioner, get a turkey baster and slowly introduce the new tank water into the cup, then about 10-15 mins later, I pour him into his tank. I've never even tested his water. I just figured there was no way I could establish a cycle in such a small tank. The three gallon tank I change 100% weekly with just what was in the cup with him added back. They seem happy enough - build bubble nests and jump out of the water to snatch food off my finger. :S

 

[Aquatic.Sylph]

Oh, and yes they have gravel and plants - the 3g just has fake ones though .

 

[Thyra]

Some of this is very confusing IMO. I have kept a betta in a bowl for years and I know it was never cycled because I completely changed the water and scrubbed the bowl weekly. My only regret was there was no heater, but he seemed happy because he built bubble nests all the time. When I did move him to what was supposedly proper quarters (2 1/2g) with heater and filter he never built any bubble nests and certainly didn't seem as happy. You don't need substrate unless you have live plants. I now have four bettas - one is in the 2 1/2 g tank. It is by far the hardest tank to keep clean. It has a very small filter and a non-adjustable heater from Walmart. It also has two otos in there and they have been there for about a year. I change about half the water once a week. I almost hate to get into this, but everything I have read about the good bacteria in aquariums say they need a "wet dry" surface so that it is well oxygenated and I simply can't understand how gravel or any substrate meets this qualification. Anyway, for a tank to be considered cycled it needs some nitrAte - up around 20ppm. Its only the ammonia and nitrItes that should be zero.

 

[KcMopar]

I almost hate to get into this, but everything I have read about the good bacteria in aquariums say they need a "wet dry" surface so that it is well oxygenated and I simply can't understand how gravel or any substrate meets this qualification. Anyway, for a tank to be considered cycled it needs some nitrAte - up around 20ppm. Its only the ammonia and nitrItes that should be zero.

Its all part of the nitrogen cycle. The bacteria needs water rich in oxygen to survive, so the water surface action serves as the the oxygen part and the gravel is where bacteria lives. Now with a wet/dry filter there is a section that has media which has water trickling over or through it. This provides surface area for the water to be oxygenated and a material for the bacteria to live. This is just a filter that provides a place for the bacteria to live besides in the gravel. This is just a general overview to get the principle across. I hope this helps you understand more???

 

[Thyra]

You agree that the bacteria need the water rich in oxygen to survive and so the water surface acts as the oxygen part. That is exactly how I understand it. What I don't get is the part about the water not having much of the bacteria in it, yet somehow it gets to the substrate where the majority of the oxygen is not, and yet it lives there. I do understand the wet/dry filter concept and completely agree with that. The Aqueon filters I have have a grill and tooth combination in front of the filter media which is supposedly the biofilter where the bacteria colonize. That seems to work fine IME as best as I can tell.

 

[KcMopar]

The whole water column needs to be rich in oxygen so you need to have good circulation to get the best growth in the gravel. The substrate has the nasties in it where the bacteria forms, the bacteria needs the nasties and a well oxygen water column to complete the nitrogen cycle.