110 gallon freshwater setup

Apr 27, 2012
63
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Lexington, KY
#1
hey everybody, new to mft.net ive got a fairly simple question. im purchasing a 110 gal freshwater w/numerous large fish on sunday. the tank was active last week. i was wondering if i need to let the tank run to get the bio-filter back up and running before i put the fish back into their tank. and if so how long should i keep them out. if not would it be right to put stress zyme in the tank then put the fish in? the fish include (yellowtail barracudas, puffer fish, ghost knife, silver dollars, irredecent shark, angel fish and cichlids. if someone could help me out I'd greatly appreciate it
 

KcMopar

Superstar Fish
#2
I would toss in a couple shrimp and let them rot so your cycle can get started. Do you have a kit to test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate? You will need these. Once your tank is showing zero ammonia and nitrite but about 5 PPM worth of nitrate it will be safe to add your fish.
Also note that the shark will get way to big for your tank.
 

Thyra

Superstar Fish
Jun 2, 2010
1,891
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Yelm, WA
#3
Kerry, I'm not sure I understand this - if he is purchasing the tank with all the fish, then the tank should already be cycled. He has to take the water out to move the tank, but he can't be leaving all those fish in a bucket or tub until the shrimp rot? There are a few more details we need - like how far he is moving the tank, etc. Obviously he will have to take the substrate out because for a tank that large it would be too heavy to move with it in, but if he doesn't clean the substrate or the filter and just puts everything back together again, I would think he could put the fish back in also - just be sure the temp of the water is the same. The test kit is a necessity - API liquid for freshwater and then monitor it daily and do partial water changes as needed. What do any of the rest of you think?
 

Feb 27, 2009
4,395
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36
#4
im purchasing a 110 gal freshwater w/numerous large fish on sunday. the tank was active last week. i was wondering if i need to let the tank run to get the bio-filter back up and running before i put the fish back into their tank.
It was active last week? Is it no longer active? Where are the fish now?

What kind of puffer is in the tank? There are a few freshwater species, but I can't imagine those living with the rest of the fish you mentioned. Most puffers will need brackish to full marine salt levels, not freshwater.

I agree with Thyra, more information is needed. If the tank is still running, and the fish are being transported in bags/buckets, you can do the same with the filter media to keep the beneficial bacteria alive. I would also definately recommend a liquid test kit. You should expect to see some spikes in ammonia/nitrite due to the move and number of fish. Also agree that your shark will outgrow the tank.
 

Apr 27, 2012
63
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Lexington, KY
#5
Reply

The fish are currently in a smaller tank. Im not sure as to what species of puffer i just know that's what it said in the ad. Im going to be moving the tank and fish about 1 1/2 hours away. I will be getting all the original filters and substrate. I do have all the necessary test kits minus the nitrite. I also have a 45 gallon that has been cycling for a little over a month that i could move a few of the fish into for the time being if i need to cycle the tank being moved. And yes Im aware of the shark getting bigger. I plan on selling him. He was just a part of the deal.
 

Feb 27, 2009
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#7
I'd treat this as a huge fish-in cycle then. And would definately recommend you ID the fish so that you can rehome those that need rehomed. Unfortunately, a lot of folks that are getting out of the hobby often have incompatiable fish housed together that will stress others and/or die due to inadaquate conditions.

I bought a 55 gallon tank yrs ago that was a 'cichlid' tank and supposedly set up for years. Turns out the fish were a mix of African and South American fish, some cichilds, some not, and the guy was having massive fish deaths due to poor water quality and incompatible fish. I ended up rehoming the Africans (smaller number of those) and some other fish, and had a nice SA tank in the end.

What test kit do you have that does NOT test for nitrite? You need ammonia, nitrite and nitrate at a minimum, and likely pH/GH/KH to measure water hardness for a cichlid tank. Lots of cichlid folks on here that are far more expert at it than me. Just post pics of the fish once you get them so they can be identified.
 

Last edited:
Apr 27, 2012
63
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Lexington, KY
#9
I have the api ammonia kit, api ph, and api nitrate test kits. If the tank is not active, how long do i have before the bacteria in the substrate and filter sponge dies off? Would it be wise to use some of the water and rock from my tank that's been cycle when starting up the new tank? By the way thanks for all the info guys its greatly appreciated