125 gallon marine filtration

[Kenster]

I just aquired a 125 gl. tank and going saltwater. Have had small 40 gl. salt for years. With this larger tank, Could I get by using a canister filter such as Fluval fx5. I plan to start out with just live rock and speciman fish. I may plan on corals and inverts down the road...I know wet/dry would be better but honestly...I don't know enough about them, and for simplicity I would rather stick with the canister if it would suffice. The FX5 has 3 compartmants for any type of media you want. Someone told me to put small bio balls in one chamber and you get the same affect as wet/dry. Anyone using this filter or something similar with positive results? or anyone know why this would or not work. I would love to get some feedback before buying the wrong filter.
Thanks
Kenster

 

[zoalover34]

Welcome to mft first off.. second u don't need anyother 'filter' except Live rock, just make sure u get at least 1lb per gallon.. shoot for 1.5-2lbs and u will be good to go, if you wanna add something to help 'filter' get a skimmer.. you really don't want bioballs unless you plan on cleaning them ever week b/c they are known to be a nitrate factory.. HTH

 

[superbad]

Jim,
Are you saying not to get a wet/dry filter at all? We are also getting a 125 g for saltwater and I've been reading up so we can start cycling, but a lot of places say get a wet/dry filter but all the ones I have seen have the bioballs. Do they come with out them?

 

[superbad]

How about this one? No bioballs. AQUA-FUGE MP RefugiumLarge by CPR Aquatics* - AquaCave

 

[zoalover34]

you don't need a wet/dry no.. just get a sump and you can put baffles in it for alot less that the 1 they are selling in that link..

 

[Lorna]

Actually you should read a few books such as "The New Marine Aquarium" by Michael Paletta and "The Concientious Marine Aquariust" by Robert Fenner. Both of these along with information here Wetwebmedia, Aquarium, Pond, Marine and Freshwater Fish, reef tanks, and Aquatics Information will give you all the information necessary to set up well run saltwater tank. What Jim says is right.....1-2lbs per gallon of live rock and possibly a deep sand bed substrate with good powerheads to produce about 20x turnover rate for flow to keep any detritus in suspension to be skimmed out using a "quality" protein skimmer. This is all the mechanical/biological filtration you will need. A start of a "fowlr" which is fish only with live rock can sometimes benefit from the use of a cannister filter to hold media such as carbon or phosphate removers but the use of bioballs can lead to nitrate issues farther down the line (though the nitrates will be an issue with algae and if you eventually want corals that require higher water quality) The lfs will want to sell a wet/dry as these were the popular filter methods used for years. They are not necessary as the flow from the powerheads and the protein skimmer with provide the oxygen exchange. A sump is a good addition and most wet/drys can be converted to a sump a place to hide heaters, protein skimmers etc and of course added water volume. My advice is to get a good live rock foundation coupled with a really good skimmer. Once you have one picked out ask us as most of us here have used most brands and know the good from the bad.......good luck and welcome to MFT!

 

[Kenster]

Thanks for all of the information, Things certainly have changed since the 90's when I was hot and heavy into marine tanks. I have been looking up information about going with live rock and pro skimmers for filtration, I am astounded that this works, when I was into this years ago..the common thought was you had to have wet/dry to run anything other than basic damsels. When I started in marine tanks, there was not even an internet. Sites like this and all of the sharing of information has me very excited to be getting back into this amazing hobby again.
Thanks for the help, I will study up on these ideas, and go with the "Flow" so to speak.
and thanks for all of the "welcomes" to the site.
Kenster

 

[Lorna]

Well nowadays things are a bit different. You just need to ask questions, weigh carefully that told to you by the lfs as most are in the business to sell stuff and though there are those out there who are abreast of this rapidly changing hobby. The filtration with live rock and deep sand beds have contributed greatly to the success most hobbyist now have with running full blown reef aquariums which were virtually unheard of in the mainstream 10-15years ago. People now can keep many marine species alive for many years. The sharing of information via the internet is monumental in advancing the hobby also. Oh and along with all this new found knowledge, deep pockets help immensely also......

 

[Lotus]

Many people with larger tanks/overflows go for a sump/refugium setup. The refugium generally contains an "algal scrubber" which is macroalgae that's kept in lowish flow with lighting to remove nitrates from the system.

Reef tanks do best with low/zero nitrates, and the algal scrubbers help denitrify, as do deep sand beds (with anaerobic denitrifying bacteria).

Bio balls trap aerobic bacteria, which is efficient at removing ammonia and nitrites, but produces nitrates as its end product. Nitrates are horrible for corals and other inverts, so the bio balls (and other biological aerobic media) are generally not popular. Canister filters also generally harbor aerobic bacteria, and are also less popular.

Refugiums also provide a place for pods to multiply, where there safe from fish. When the pods go through the return system, they provide free food for fish and corals.

I've found that my small refugium has kept my (newbie) tank very stable. I've had very few algae outbreaks, as the macroalgaes outcompete the microalgaes. I've never had any significant hair algae or cyanobacteria since I set up the tank.