125gal sump/wet/dry set up

epond83

Large Fish
Mar 11, 2007
483
0
0
#1
I’m not to knew to the fish tank world and have done a lot of reading on it, I haven’t bought anything for a new set up but I’m getting everything set up in my head/paper on how I want to set up a 125gal tank. I'm thinking about using a wet/dry filter/sump (not sure about proper names). I like this idea because I can put the heater in this area and maintain water level in main tank, along with other benefits. I was thinking about having an ultraviolet filter set up on this system. I was thinking about having it mounted inline on the return line to the tank, seems easier then the line going into the sump, also this way I can filter water more effecitlly. The problem I’m coming across is that the "twist" kind which I would think work better because of prolonged exposure seem to flow a lot less, like 200 gph. But I know I need to flow around 650 gph, I have seen an ultraviolet filter that is for a 125gal that flows max 1200 gph. But this was a straight through deal and was not sure if it was as effective.
Also I was wondering about CO2 injection and aeration of some kind, if both of these happen in the filter/ sump would it "stay in" the water and into the main tank? I plan on making the filter tank as large as possible, with in reason to fit under the stand, and only having the over flow to the sump and the return line into the tank to keep thinks clean looking.
I’m thinking I want plants (maybe) and some sort of cichlids.
 

Lotus

Ultimate Fish
Moderator
Aug 26, 2003
15,115
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38
Southern California
home.earthlink.net
#2
There are a couple of problems with the overall use of a wet/dry with a CO2 system, as it will seriously outgas most of the CO2 you're adding. I would say that it would be better to go for a canister system if you want a planted tank. If you go with a canister, you can use an inline heater, and so have very little equipment in your tank.

A UV sterilizer shouldn't be run constantly on a tank. It can be useful for treating ich or green water. Ich is better avoided by good quarantining purposes.

If you're going for African cichlids, plants aren't generally compatible. Most African cichlids will dig them up. It does work sometimes, with certain fish, but it would need some research. Most South American cichlids would be fine with plants.

Sorry if I came up with a bunch of problems for you :)
 

nealio

Large Fish
Aug 23, 2006
396
0
0
#3
Yup, lotus is right about the plants and Co2.

They do make Co2 set ups that you can add to your sump on your last baffle so your return line goes straight into the water, but you will never have the same results you do with a canister filter since its pretty much a closed loop system. Its always best to get a PH meter when you set this up so you can dial it in from the start. Dead fish because of a PH spike sucks... trust me.

African cichlids mostly like rocks and rocky areas, so maybe skip the Co2 all together and stick with the fish you like. Usually you pick a Fish and then fabricate the tank around the fish.

As for the UV, you only really need that turned on when you see a drastic change in the water from clear to green. If you have more than 3wpg it can help keep your water clearer as well to cut down on some of the algae growth. But its not good to keep it on all the time. I would just run it with a power head when needed in a closed loop set up when needed.

Good luck with everything! *thumbsups
 

epond83

Large Fish
Mar 11, 2007
483
0
0
#4
I was thinking about having the tank pretty well lighted, so i was thinking the UV would help keep the algae down. I think i want to go with South American Cichlids not sure if they like rock as much? If i were to have the UV come from the sump and go back into it would this this be effictive for algae, and would i want to still run it just when the water is a bit green, or all the time?