150g pre drilled dual corner overflows to individual Canister filters?

Mar 14, 2011
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#1
Hey fellas,
New kid on the block with some questions and concerns regarding my latest project that I have undertaken:

So, Iam now the proud owner of my first 150g large tank with stand, canopy and dual corner overflows that needs to be designed and maintained for a single male red eare slider turtle and a community of freshwater fish when completed.

I am looking for colorful community fish recommendations, lighting ideas, filtration setup designs (preferably (2) canister filters plumbed into already drilled inlet and outlet holes) sump ideas if thought to be better and aquascaping ideas...live plants, substrate, platforms...etc.

Thanks for the great place to post and I'm looking forward to all of your ideas.

Sincerely,
T.W.
 

nanu156

Large Fish
Mar 8, 2010
745
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Detroit, Mi
#2
won't turtles eat your fish? Don't they need the water sort of low so they can get out of it and "sun" themselves and dry off?

Tell me more about turtles and I will tell you more about fish. lol :)
 

ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
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#3
Two canisters and a sump? That's some killer over filtering, but I don't know enough about turtles to tell you if it's too much.
+1 on the eating your fish question. I also thought turtles would eat everything.
 

Aug 13, 2010
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Sicklerville, NJ
#4
No need for a sump if you run 2 canisters. Just plumb each over flow into the intake of the canister...pretty simple!

It will not work with the overflows if the water has to be low for the turtle unless you modify the overflow.

From wikipedia "Red-eared sliders can be quite aggressive—especially when food is involved. If being kept as a pet, care must be taken to prevent injury or even death of its smaller tankmates. However, the opposite can occur if shrimps are introduced as food. Smaller red-eared sliders less than a year old have been known to choke on the shells of the shrimps and suffer from lung puncture."

So I would say no fishes in this tank!
 

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supra1997

Large Fish
Feb 16, 2008
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Oceanside, CA
www.rdubphoto.com
#5
I would skip the canisters all the way and just use a large sump. Way less maintenance and more efficient. Plumb both directly into the sump and then run the pump line back into the tank. But I'm not so sure about the whole turtle and water level thing.
 

Mar 14, 2011
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#6
Let me shed a little light on the setup criteria and plans pertaining to the red eared slider himslef.

As far as turtles go and space requirements, the "rule of thumb" is...10 galllons of water per in of turtle. Male R.E.S average 8 to 9 inches while females typically range 10 to 12 inches in length.
That said, our R.E.S is a male who is currently 6 inches. At his expected total length of 9 inches max he would properly and responsibly need approximately 90 gallons of water.

Now that I have a 150 gallon aqaurium, stand and canopy, I will be filling the tank approximately 3/5 or 90 gallons full of water and removing and cutting the overflow boxes to that point where the tank will hold only 90 gallons of water prior to the overflow effect taking place.
Above the water line and between the rim of the tank will be open air where temperatures fluctuate very slightly due to the use of a canopy and intake/exhaust fans.
The water temp required for a R.E.S is usually within the acceptable range of many tropical fish. Typically a healhy temp for R.E.S turtles is around 74 degrees. Water parimeters are typically the same as far as requirments of tropical species. 0 ammonia: 0 nitrite: and no more than .25ppm worh of nitrate at any given time when maintaned correctly and vigilatnly. Ph should range between 7.2 and 7.8 while general hardness and Carbonate Hardness are not very significant as turtles are quite hardy in those respects.

The water surface will have sufficient aggitation via use of corner powerheads with pre_filters working double duty as UGJ (under gravel jets) for reverse filtration purposes to reduce "dead spots" and decrease substrate accumilation of detritus.
There will be @ least 1 floating basking dock, possibly 2 and perhaps a couple of built up slate basking areas slightly beneath the surface just low enough for his body to remain submerged while allowing his head to protrude the surface for air. Substrate is still up for ideas, opinions and or modification, but I am leaning towards 1 1/2in to 2in river rock.

As for lighting the hood will be housing @ least 1 basking lamp per dock and a 48" odyssea 4x65w lamp with 2 daylight flourescent compacts and 2 atinic flourescen compacts for esthetic night time evening setting light visuals. Haven't had any major algea problems using that setup on the current 40 gallon breeder.

Now for the good stuff, since the tank is pre-drilled on both ends for the dual corner overflows I could plumb my two sunsun "perfect" canisters into the inlet and outlet.....however I am concerned with airlock within the canister since they are closed systems and the only evaporation occurring would take place inside the tank rather than a sump, eventually causing the overflow level to drop in the tank while the cans are still running causing them to suck up air instead of water.
For simplicity and space it would be ideal, but I don't think it would be advisable regarding the problematic and non-solution air lock problem.

So now I believe that the only way to design this system efficiently and with the biological, mechanical and from time to time chemical necessary filtration would be to design and build a wet/dry trickle filter capable of holding 3 gallons of bio balls and housing a pump rated for @ least 300 gph to turn the 90 gallons over 2-3 times per hour.

I believe a sump meeting these requirements with the two individual corner inlets flowing into 2 individual bulkheads mounted onto the sump going directly over the drip plate and a return pump of 300-500gph feeding back to both corner outlets within the tank would be efficient and maintainable MAIN filtration for the 90 gallons of water and 1 R.E.S turtle.

I am contemplating and considering placong one of my SUNSUN perfect HW-302 caniters with biomax tray, bio sponge tray and pillow batting fine media incorporated into the sump with input and output spraybar pulling and returning water into the return pump section of the wetdry sump.
This is where I really want to hear all of your thoughts and theories.

The reason fo this added measure is because I would like to have a community of FISH

I know "turtle and fish?????" Bad combo....not necessarily in my experience. I believe that I can maintain a community of a semi aggrsive and fast species such as Cichlids anand or Rams of around 4 to 6 inches that the turtle will not stress and or endanger.
He mainly feeds on a veggie and pellet type diet, but will eat goldfish, mollies, golden barbs, tetras and so forth small breed fish. He has never attempted to eat or show interset in our 3 in Chinese Algea Eater so I am hoping to add a large pleco to the 150 as well keeping stocking levels in mind.

I believe that ill I can think to talk about right now, if any of you were brave enough to read this entire book from a complete and inexperienced newbie....PLEASE SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS, FEELINGS,, IDEAS, LIKES AND DISLIKES with me along with any links and or info worth knowing about.


Thanks fellas.

Sincerely,
T.W.
 

Mar 14, 2011
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#8
That's a great point but I need to consrve underwater space as much as possible so he has the greatest amount of available swimming room, they are prone to getting there shells wedged in underwater decorations and or natural solid objects whcih can cause them do drown.

I may be able to stack the slate platforms in a jagged form against the ledt or right far corners of the tank as an idea for some main hiding areas betweeb the glass and slate rock. I think a nice big peice of root would look good in there amd would offer adequate hiding areas for the fish along with the slate platforms,

What do you guys think??
 

nanu156

Large Fish
Mar 8, 2010
745
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Detroit, Mi
#9
Ummm ok...

So I think your turtle might eat your fish, but turtles eat fish and fish are food, so that being said keeping fish might be worth a try and as long as you don't dump a ton of cash into the fish well then you aren't out much.

Ok so Im a turtle rookie but it seems that having fish in his tank will make him more likely to swim around etc.

I would go with convict cichlids, and no pleco for heavens sake no pleco.

I picked convicts for the following reasons;

1. Price they are inexpencive as far as cichlids go
2. they breed like crazy so the fry will feed the cichlids as well as the turtle assuming the turtle likes moving food
3. size thet get about palm sized and thats going to be a bit much for a turtle to eat all at once
4. aquascape they don't need much here, I would add some overturned flower pots (with holes drilled/broken out that are far too small for the turtle) and some flat stones
5. they are super easy to keep, breeders and such like to use them to fish in cycle tanks because they can live through just about anything

I read that turtles are pretty dirty so the convicts would be a far better choice over say rams who need really good water quality.

Plecos Jump, have spines that if your turtle decided to mess with them could hurt the turtle, they are poop machines, and they are slow, the CAE's you have now are fast and smart plecos not so much.

I would suggest CAE's to do the bottom feeding.

So here you have it i recommended CAE's and convicts to someone. Two fish that i rarely recommend.
 

Mar 14, 2011
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#10
Man the algea eater is damn fast and smart, tuccks up behind the intake strainer every time the turtle goes on a fishing spree.

Don't get me wrong guys, I'm not tryin to feed the turtle some nice expensive fish. I like the convict recomendation and plecos are a bad idea. I should have not considered them in the first place. Turtles are messy but I use two canister filters and my media flows great @ about 265gph on the 40 gallon breeder.

My parameters are on the money and my water quality is pristine and clear as a sheet of starphire lol. Do you still think Rams would be a bad idea?
 

nanu156

Large Fish
Mar 8, 2010
745
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Detroit, Mi
#11
Yeah rams are stressy and need super nice water, they are a hard fish to keep in ideal conditions.

Convicts would be a great plan but if you end up with a pair (with convicts that means 1 male and 1 female they don't have to like each other they will still get busy lol) keeping anything else in there is a disaster.

CAEs are rediculous... I have some in my tanks right now that i would love to be rid of but i can't catch the buggers... they know to swim to the pleco den's of awesomeness and that i won't disturb my plecos because they are precious lol. Seriously they are a pest in most set ups but with what you have going on they are perfect.

The other thing is if your turtle turns on your fish and you lose a convict you won't be heart broken because they will make you fish of plenty on a daily basis (avg batch of fry = 200, avg time to make a new batch 1 month, now they will start eating their babies after a while and your turtle is welcome at that buffet lol :))
 

nanu156

Large Fish
Mar 8, 2010
745
0
0
Detroit, Mi
#13
they are all about barry white and then guarding what listening to barry white got them lol ;) they will eat anything, tolerate just about any water condition, and they are known to fight off fish twice their size..

They are the guppies of the cichlid world. (or rabbits of the fish world, but I prefer to think of cats as I am pretty sure cats make more babies then bunnies but I could be wrong)
 

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Mar 14, 2011
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#14


Here's a pic of the new 150g, tank is facing backwards as of the moment. Planning on at least 2 months before it comes into house. Want to decide on filtration, cut overflow boxes down and build sump if I go that route first.
 

Mar 14, 2011
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#17


Backside of stand and canopy, frontside of tank. Still has a bit of sand in it and needs to be cleaned before I even start working on it. 1/2 in glass, starphire front, dual corner overflows, diamond ground edges, eurobraced. Wil bea a beauty when done and refinish the lower stand though its not n bad shape. Just being OCD :)