3 Bleeding Hearts, 2 Buenos Aires and a few Jumbo Neons Dipped in Salt. Need Advice!!

Feb 10, 2011
81
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Annapolis, MD
#1
Hello All. Just wanted to say first and foremost, thanks a ton for taking a minute to look at my new thread and attempt to help me out. Any and all advice, direction, etc. is warmly welcomed. Although I am headfirst, head over heels in love with and involved with this hobby, i"m still very new. New enough, in fact to fall for quite a few of the gimmicks and make some very rookie mistakes.

I have a 29 gallon starter. 4 Gold Barbs, 1 bala shark (been impressed with how passive he is) 10 jumbo neon tetras and 8 other tetras ( 4 Buenos Aires and 4 Bleeding hearts)

I set my tank up, let it cycle for about two days and began adding fish. This was over a week ago.

Of course, now, as I've been told Bleeding hearts can do, have come down with pretty severe cases of ich and a few of my Buenos Aires and Jumbo Neons are showing signs as well. Everyone else seems to be ok. Throughout my research i've found that it's pretty much useless to treat them during the phase when they're showing the signs of being covered in sugar or salt. To treat effectively you should wait until these 'fall off', hope they survive, and then treat when the parasite is more exposed.

Well, I'm at the stage where you can see that they are covered in the white spots. Now what. I know you should avoid treating the whole tank as it will kill my cycle and I'll have to start from the beginning. I've been slowly cranking the heat up and it's about as high as it will go right now (82-83 consistently). I've also been adding salt periodically and believe I might now even have MORE than the "one well rounded tablespoon per 5 gallons" rule.

Where do I go, what do I do from here to put this thing in it's place and hopefully save my fish? Never dealt with this before and don't want to lose these guys. I thought about taking the ones with the signs of infection out of the tank and just putting them in a large bucket or 'hospital tank' and begin treating them. My thought too is that when the parasite drops off, they'll do it in the bucket and not in my tank.


Help!!
 

ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
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#2
The temperature in combination with the salt should kill it ick, its just a matter of waiting for it now. It usually takes a week or two. I've not heard that about not treating them when they're showing, so I'd go ahead and just keep doing what you're doing with the whole tank. Make sure you do some water changes and vacuum the gravel really, really well since that's where the ick is going to go when it falls of your fish.
 

skjl47

Large Fish
Nov 13, 2010
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Northeastern Tennessee.
#3
Hello; My understanding is that the spots you see on the fish are the attached parasites and at that stage are difficult to treat. I believe that the eggs are also difficult to kill. The larval stage is the one that can more easily be killed. The eggs in the substrate hatch out into larvae that swim around until they attach to a fish. I feel that you should start treatment at the first sign of an ick infestation. The treatment must continue for a time after the last visible parasite is gone to kill the larvae that will continue to hatch. I guess that your fish will have to endure The parasites already attached. The treatment will stop new ones from taking hold. The high temp is supposed to speed up the life cycle of the parasite and along with the salt is also supposed to kill the larvae. You may want to consider a quarantine tank for new fish in the future.
 

Feb 10, 2011
81
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Annapolis, MD
#4
Awesome guys. Appreciate it. It's one thing to think or hope you're doing the right thing but another to know that I may be ok. I'm going to probably try to add some air to the tank soon with a new whisper air pump and air stones, keep the temp high and keep adding salt periodically. So far since the addition of fish, I've been doing 25-30% water changes every two or three days and that really seems to help with clarity, among other things. I've notice that the disease is definitely progressing since the addition of the fish. I just don't want to go adding a bunch of anti-bacteria and anti-fungal medications to my whole tank when only a handful are showing signs and/or symptoms. If you guys think of anything else or have any other ideas/advice feel free to let me know. Thanks again. I'll let everyone know how it progresses.
 

ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
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#5
Just make sure you really clean the gravel when you do water changes. Also, are you adding more salt every time you do a water change, because you know that's taking some of the salt out every time, right?
 

Feb 10, 2011
81
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Annapolis, MD
#6
yeah. definitely adding more salt but haven't thought too much about vacuuming the substrate though. suppose I'll give that a shot too even though I've found that it messes things up quite a bit sometimes both aesthetically and can damage the bacteria that I'm still trying to develop in the cycle of my tank. What do you think? My stats right now are: 25-30% water changes every 2 or 3 days, 82 degree consistent water temp, not feeding quite as much, quite as often and adding plenty of salt.
 

ryanoh

Large Fish
Mar 22, 2010
858
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#7
Well the way ich works is that it lives on your fish, lays eggs, the eggs fall into your substrate, swim through the water, get on the fish, and repeat. By upping the temperature you're speeding up this cycle, so the point is to get them off your fish and onto your gravel so you can suck them out. Without getting them off the gravel you're not going to get rid of them. I know what you mean that sometimes vacuuming the gravel makes a mess (which is part of the reason I switched to sand), but it shouldn't mess up your cycle. I know that bacteria do live in the gravel, but the majority of them should be in your filter media and you vacuuming out your gravel isn't going get rid of too many of them.
 

Feb 27, 2009
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#8
I know you should avoid treating the whole tank as it will kill my cycle and I'll have to start from the beginning.
Your tank has not cycled yet in the short time that its been set up unless you seeded it from an established tank. Keep the heat up, the lights off to avoid stress, consider rehoming the bala if it survives the treatment. They need a tank hundreds of gallons in size and need to be in a shoal.
 

Feb 10, 2011
81
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Annapolis, MD
#9
Really appreciate the advice guys. Honest. I'll start keeping the lights off for a while. Also, if it helps, know that this 29 gallon is a 6-8 month investment, then I plan on upgrading to something larger. I'd love to upgrade to something in the 45 range but it seems like the tanks immediately jump from 30-55. Any suggestions on new tanks? I'm a little old school. Don't like bowfronts, don't really care too much for hexagons either. I find that they distort the view.
 

Feb 10, 2011
81
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0
Annapolis, MD
#10
UPDATE. No fatalities to report! (woo hoo!) everyone is extremely active and the other strange thing? I woke up this morning to notice that the water in my tank is CRYSTAL, I mean, new glass, sparklingly crystal clear. amazing. it was always a tad milky and cloudy before. All of my buenos aires are now without ich and my bleeding hearts are still covered, but very active. Could this be an indication that my tank is starting to establish itself and my water quality is improving?

stats update: heat now hovering around 84 consistent, still adding about a tablespoon of salt at least twice a day, still keeping the feeding conservative