Since I want my Oto to get the most nutrition, I bought some Algae Wafers. The man at my lfs said that the AW would be too big for my Oto, so he suggested that I break them into 1/4s. That night, I did and 4 days later, my tank water is green. I don't see excessive algae growth except for the water (which I don't care that it's green, not necessarily unhealthy for the tank if controlled) and my Oto seems to be enjoying the algae. My other fish don't seem affected, but I still have a question. Why is it that an algal bloom appeared shortly after I put in the 1/4 bit of Algae Wafer??
Algae Wafer + Tank = Algae Bloom??
- Thread starter Kiara1125
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I'd be willing to bet that it has much more to do with leaving your lights on too long than anything dealing with an algae wafer.
Also, your pet store is high on drugs. Unless you have other fish that will eat the algae wafers there's no real reason to break it up for your otos. They have rasping teeth that grind on algae. That's how they eat.
Also, blanch a piece of zucchini once in a while and jam a wafer in there. It may take a couple times for them to figure out its food, but when they do...oh man, do they figure it out.
Also, your pet store is high on drugs. Unless you have other fish that will eat the algae wafers there's no real reason to break it up for your otos. They have rasping teeth that grind on algae. That's how they eat.
Also, blanch a piece of zucchini once in a while and jam a wafer in there. It may take a couple times for them to figure out its food, but when they do...oh man, do they figure it out.
Now that the days are getting longer and warmer, you may want to adjust your lighting. Is your tank somewhere that it gets any daylight?
That said, the best behaved planted tank I ever had was a ten gallon set up according to the "natural" method in a book we have. I think it's something like "A Guide to the Planted Aquarium." They laid out the standard advice for planted tanks. Proper lights, CO2, proper substrate... But they also described the crunchy hippie method, saying, you'll probably just have a soup of algae, but you can try it, don't say we didn't warn you: a thin layer of garden soil under your substrate, and put it where it is lit by a window like a house plant, DIY CO2. I had to be careful about gravel vac-ing until the plant roots established themselves or I would suck up all the dirt and muddy the tank water, but after about two weeks, it was the most beautiful thing you ever saw. And never any algae problems, despite all the things you hear to the contrary.
That said, the best behaved planted tank I ever had was a ten gallon set up according to the "natural" method in a book we have. I think it's something like "A Guide to the Planted Aquarium." They laid out the standard advice for planted tanks. Proper lights, CO2, proper substrate... But they also described the crunchy hippie method, saying, you'll probably just have a soup of algae, but you can try it, don't say we didn't warn you: a thin layer of garden soil under your substrate, and put it where it is lit by a window like a house plant, DIY CO2. I had to be careful about gravel vac-ing until the plant roots established themselves or I would suck up all the dirt and muddy the tank water, but after about two weeks, it was the most beautiful thing you ever saw. And never any algae problems, despite all the things you hear to the contrary.
Root tabs (just fertilizer concentrated in a tablet form) can be found at most fish stores. Not frighteningly expensive (but more than $0.13, lol) and you can break them in half. I put half of one beneath my sword every month or so . . . . Swords in particular take in nutrients through their roots, so need a little extra boost if your substrate isn't super nutrient-rich . . . . .
Hello; On the lights burning out - I have found that moisture from the tank to be a culprit. moisture can get into the fixtures and apparently short them out. Air bubbles break at the surface and spray tiny droplets. These droplets can also be the source of mystery leaks and mineral buildup on tank surfaces. I usually try to place a sheet of glass directly over the bubbles if the hood does not have such panels. Some fish can also splash surprising amounts of water at times.
Moisture from evaporation can condense inside of light assemblies, probably mainly at times when the lights are off and cool. In many cases during cold weather the tank water is warmer than the air temperature so condensation can be more pronounced. It can also happen in warmer weather, but likely to a lesser degree. I have found some serious corrosion in older hoods that had the bulbs exposed directly above the water's surface. I like the hoods that have glass panels and some sealing between the water and the lights. CFL's seem more sensitive than the incandescent. I suppose the circuitry in the base may be the reason.
Whichever light you use, a panel of glass or clear plastic wide enough to divert the moisture so that it does not get into the hood may extend the life of the bulbs and electrical bits.
Moisture from evaporation can condense inside of light assemblies, probably mainly at times when the lights are off and cool. In many cases during cold weather the tank water is warmer than the air temperature so condensation can be more pronounced. It can also happen in warmer weather, but likely to a lesser degree. I have found some serious corrosion in older hoods that had the bulbs exposed directly above the water's surface. I like the hoods that have glass panels and some sealing between the water and the lights. CFL's seem more sensitive than the incandescent. I suppose the circuitry in the base may be the reason.
Whichever light you use, a panel of glass or clear plastic wide enough to divert the moisture so that it does not get into the hood may extend the life of the bulbs and electrical bits.
Thanks skjl!! I wonder what I could use (glass wise). Can I use any type of glass, or is it best to get a glass top?? I constantly find water dripping from my hood from evaporation, bubbles, etc. One side of my tank that has metal is actually getting rust on it. What can I do?? How much do those glass tops cost, or what could I use as a substitute??
GO TO HOME DEpot tHEy caN CuT the gLasS FOR YOU MAKE SURE TO leAVE one inch in the back for filters etc etc should cost very little for a ten gal tank
wrap the edges with electrical tape to ensure no sharp edges
you can use weather stripping to make a hinge and do two pieces however with a tank your size Id jUSt use a single sheet since it wont be super long and heavy
while IT seems TO BE a safer optioN DOnt use plexi or plastiC AS it will warp and be a pain in your bUTT
I did really nice plexi TOps wITH FANCY HANDLES ANd the whole nine yards only to hAVE THEM LAST A Month before they were u SHAPeD
wrap the edges with electrical tape to ensure no sharp edges
you can use weather stripping to make a hinge and do two pieces however with a tank your size Id jUSt use a single sheet since it wont be super long and heavy
while IT seems TO BE a safer optioN DOnt use plexi or plastiC AS it will warp and be a pain in your bUTT
I did really nice plexi TOps wITH FANCY HANDLES ANd the whole nine yards only to hAVE THEM LAST A Month before they were u SHAPeD
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Hello; I like to use thick plate glass, partly because it is sturdier than the thin window pane glass and because many years ago I pulled some out of the trash behind a department store and still have it. While strength is not critical while in place, the panel will be handled and thicker glass seems safer.
I also cut my own from panels of discarded glass. I rub the cut edges on cement or a concrete block to dull the sharp edges
.
The foster and smith aquatics catalogue shows some all glass versa tops at $20.79 for a 30 gallon tank.
Clear Plastic will work and can be found at hardware and many other stores. It is not cheap, but is much safer to handle. It also scratches easy, but that is not an issue in a cover.
I also cut my own from panels of discarded glass. I rub the cut edges on cement or a concrete block to dull the sharp edges
.
The foster and smith aquatics catalogue shows some all glass versa tops at $20.79 for a 30 gallon tank.
Clear Plastic will work and can be found at hardware and many other stores. It is not cheap, but is much safer to handle. It also scratches easy, but that is not an issue in a cover.
yeah i really liked the plastic idea and my tops were oober cool looking as the tank lights hung on chains above the tank (dressed up shop light fancy chains fancy pull chain very fancy look) but then my tops went to crap and i was very upset
depot will sell you glass for pretty cheap i would go there or lowes
rubbing on cement will work too i like the added buffer of the rubbery electrical tape at the place where the glass meets the tank as it seemed to make it sit down in a little softer but nothing wrong with a little drive way filing thats actually a great idea
depot will sell you glass for pretty cheap i would go there or lowes
rubbing on cement will work too i like the added buffer of the rubbery electrical tape at the place where the glass meets the tank as it seemed to make it sit down in a little softer but nothing wrong with a little drive way filing
thats actually a great idea Thanks guys!! And Marcy, your previous post scared the crap out of me. What happened!?!? lol!! I'll porbably call soon and find out the approx. price. And skjl, I saw that in the catalog too. I get the Drs. Foster and Smith Aquatics catalog and I love it!! I just need a Pay Pal account. My parents won't let me use theirs...T-T
Just for the root tabs thing, I've heard rabbit poop works good as a root fertalizer, so you could problably just go out and find some rabit poop, then maybe boil it for like 10 minutes, and you got free root tabs. If you know anyone with a pet rabit, try to use that poop as opposed to wild rabbit poop. good luck!