Anemone Care, Can I have one?
First off, what are anemones?
They are animals of the cnidaria phylum, containing jellyfish, which is named after the stinging cells these animals contain, called cnidocytes. The basic anatomy of a cnidarian is a sac containing a gastrovacular cavity, which provides digestion and nutrient transportation services to the animal. This cavity has only one opening that serves as an anus and mouth. Their movement is coordinated by a decentralized nerve net and simple receptors. Tentacles surrounding the mouth contain nematocysts, specialized stinging cells, which they use to catch prey and defend themselves from predators. Each tentacle holds a small sac containing actinoporins, or toxins, an inner filament with an external sensitive hair. When the hair is touched, it triggers the cell explosion, an extrusion of the filaments that injects a dose of poison in the flesh of the aggressor or prey. The poison is a mix of toxins, including neurotoxins, which serve to paralyze and capture the prey, which is then moved by the tentacles to the mouth for digestion inside a central cavity.
Somewhere near ninety percent of their energy (food) intake is provided by the algae hosted in the anemone’s tentacles. Anemones form an important symbiosis with single-celled green algae species which reside in the animals' gastrodermal cells. These algae may be either zooxanthellae, zoochlorellae, or both. The sea anemone benefits from the products of the algae's photosynthesis, namely oxygen and food in the form of glycerol, glucose and alanine; the algae in turn are assured a reliable exposure to sunlight, which the anemones actively maintain.
Anemones are popular for their mutual symbiosis with many animals, whether it is crabs or anemonefish (clownfish). The anemone usually protects the animal, while in turn it receives scraps of food.
What makes them hard to keep?
They need strong lighting, current (to their specifications), and pristine water parameters. Luckily, it isn’t much of a case by case situation, as most anemones are equally difficult to keep in the home aquarium. I believe the only anemones that are exempt from this are Epicystis crucifer (Rock Anemone). The main aspect that many people aren’t able to meet is the lighting requirements. There is a small range on lighting; however, there are some that will only survive under extremely bright lighting. Along with that, there is a high minimum. I would suggest 150 watts minimum, and if available go for 250. This varies on tank depth, so alter that accordingly, but remember, a 20 inch tall tank would need 150 as a minimum. This amount of watts can be easily achieved using metal halide lighting.
Current is a simple area to cover, just add powerheads until the anemone sees fit. If the flow is too strong, it will move. Anemones will always move until they find a spot that is perfect, to their specifications, not yours, and anchor themselves for a long time.
Pristine water, this can be achieved with a little work and careful attention. You will need undetectable ammonia and nitrite in order to keep an anemone healthy. Nitrate should stay below 0.05ppt steadily. This can easily be achieved by a combination of the following: frequent water changes, a moderate amount of fish, efficient feeding, a deep sand bed, plenty of live rock, a protein skimmer, and a refugium (in which to grow nitrate feeding alga). Anemones also require calcium in their water, among other elements. The calcium levels should remain at 420mg/L, but 450mg/L is preferred, and do not exceed 480mg/L. Anemones will also prefer a secure level of iodine in the water. The pH, temperature, and salinity requirements are like those of other saltwater specimens, 8.1-8.4, 72-78°F, and 1.023-1.025, respectively.
Which ones would you suggest for me?
There are many anemones to choose from so please choose wisely, and if you have doubts do not purchase one. Anemones are not for the beginner saltwater aquarist. I learned this the hard way with an Entacmaea quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemone) specimen. Here is a list of common anemones, arranged from least difficult to most difficult:
Group 1 - Easy
Epicystis crucifer – Rock Flower Anemone
I find this to be the simplest and hardiest anemone to keep. They will do well anywhere, even low light. They do not require supplemental feeding either. Unique beauty and inexpensive, I got my 4” for $8. Expect 8” for maximum size.
Bartholomea annulata – Curly-Cue or Rock Anemone
Another relatively steady anemone that stays at moderate size of 6”.
Condylactis gigantea – Condy or Giant Anemone
An anemone that will grow to 6”.
The above anemones will survive in a tank of at least 20 gallons, but 30 gallons is preferred for stability. None of the above is known for hosting anemonefish. These anemones have the most easily met requirements. Beginners are discouraged from anemones in general, though I believe these are a viable option.
Group 2 - Moderate
Entacmaea quadricolor – Bubble Tip Anemone (Includes Rose)
This is the most popular anemone. It will readily host most anemonefish species. Under desired lighting conditions, the anemone will gain bulb tips. This anemone will not always display its bubble tips, even while perfectly healthy. The Rose variation of this species is a rarity, and quite beautiful. This specimen is the most likely to reproduce by splitting in the home aquarium. Healthy specimens will reach 12”. A 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Macrodactyla doreensis – Long Tentacle Anemone
Second in distribution only to the Bubble Tip Anemone in the aquarium trade, this specimen will reach 20” once full grown. A 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
These two listed species are extremely popular, and moderately hardy by relative comparison. Each has similar light requirements, which are quite high. Both species will benefit from supplemental feeding 2-3 times a week, even if an anemonefish is hosted.
Group 3 - Difficult
Stichodactyla sp. – Carpet Anemone (Includes all color variations)
A large anemone, typically of 20”, with short tentacles, this anemone is very sticky, and potentially venomous. The Electric Green variation is the most common. Again, a 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Heteractis crispa – Sebae Anemone
This anemone will also reach 20”. This anemone is a popular host to anemonefish in the wild. Again, a 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Heteractis magnifica – Magnificent or Ritteri Anemone
This is a truly magnificent specimen. In the wild it is common to reach 36” across, but 10” is their usual maximum size in the home aquarium. This anemone is often referred to as the “Ritz-Carlton of Anemonefish”. Readily hosts almost every species of anemonefish. Standard minimum is 70 gallons, but I would suggest 90 gallons.
The above group should be regarded as difficult to keep. This group requires the most precise of water conditions, and the heaviest lighting you can fit. These should be viewed as a difficult anemone, even to the moderately experienced aquarist. This group will host the widest range of anemonefish than any of my three listed groups. Anemones here are also extremely strong in their attachment, use caution when retrieving tools or hand.
What are some clear signs of a malnourished anemone?
First and foremost, if you have an anemone that will not stop moving, you must remove it from your tank. This is a sign of sure death. An anemone will stop moving once it has found a preferred spot, and will stay, usually for the remainder of its life. The movement should stop within the first week. Another sign of ill-health is a loose mouth. There should only be a small gap in the lips and they should appear pursed. Another typical sign is a stringy appearance. None of these signs can be overlooked. The most common problem is bleaching, usually Entacmaea quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemones) exhibit this. Bleaching is when an anemone expels its zooxanthellae and loses all color, due to insufficient light. This can be overcome, and repaired over time through increased lighting and near daily feedings. The second most common problem is dyed anemones, usually Heteractis crispa (Sebae Anemone). Dyed anemones have been injected with a liquid dye that will wear off over time. Again, supplemental feeding is a must to help this anemone pull through. Please avoid these dyed specimens when you select your anemones.
Please remember that anemones are not to be kept by the beginner. They are beautiful animals that require specific attention. Once you are able to keep one, all of the work has paid for itself by their sheer elegance and wonder.
Thanks,
Kevin
First off, what are anemones?
They are animals of the cnidaria phylum, containing jellyfish, which is named after the stinging cells these animals contain, called cnidocytes. The basic anatomy of a cnidarian is a sac containing a gastrovacular cavity, which provides digestion and nutrient transportation services to the animal. This cavity has only one opening that serves as an anus and mouth. Their movement is coordinated by a decentralized nerve net and simple receptors. Tentacles surrounding the mouth contain nematocysts, specialized stinging cells, which they use to catch prey and defend themselves from predators. Each tentacle holds a small sac containing actinoporins, or toxins, an inner filament with an external sensitive hair. When the hair is touched, it triggers the cell explosion, an extrusion of the filaments that injects a dose of poison in the flesh of the aggressor or prey. The poison is a mix of toxins, including neurotoxins, which serve to paralyze and capture the prey, which is then moved by the tentacles to the mouth for digestion inside a central cavity.
Somewhere near ninety percent of their energy (food) intake is provided by the algae hosted in the anemone’s tentacles. Anemones form an important symbiosis with single-celled green algae species which reside in the animals' gastrodermal cells. These algae may be either zooxanthellae, zoochlorellae, or both. The sea anemone benefits from the products of the algae's photosynthesis, namely oxygen and food in the form of glycerol, glucose and alanine; the algae in turn are assured a reliable exposure to sunlight, which the anemones actively maintain.
Anemones are popular for their mutual symbiosis with many animals, whether it is crabs or anemonefish (clownfish). The anemone usually protects the animal, while in turn it receives scraps of food.
What makes them hard to keep?
They need strong lighting, current (to their specifications), and pristine water parameters. Luckily, it isn’t much of a case by case situation, as most anemones are equally difficult to keep in the home aquarium. I believe the only anemones that are exempt from this are Epicystis crucifer (Rock Anemone). The main aspect that many people aren’t able to meet is the lighting requirements. There is a small range on lighting; however, there are some that will only survive under extremely bright lighting. Along with that, there is a high minimum. I would suggest 150 watts minimum, and if available go for 250. This varies on tank depth, so alter that accordingly, but remember, a 20 inch tall tank would need 150 as a minimum. This amount of watts can be easily achieved using metal halide lighting.
Current is a simple area to cover, just add powerheads until the anemone sees fit. If the flow is too strong, it will move. Anemones will always move until they find a spot that is perfect, to their specifications, not yours, and anchor themselves for a long time.
Pristine water, this can be achieved with a little work and careful attention. You will need undetectable ammonia and nitrite in order to keep an anemone healthy. Nitrate should stay below 0.05ppt steadily. This can easily be achieved by a combination of the following: frequent water changes, a moderate amount of fish, efficient feeding, a deep sand bed, plenty of live rock, a protein skimmer, and a refugium (in which to grow nitrate feeding alga). Anemones also require calcium in their water, among other elements. The calcium levels should remain at 420mg/L, but 450mg/L is preferred, and do not exceed 480mg/L. Anemones will also prefer a secure level of iodine in the water. The pH, temperature, and salinity requirements are like those of other saltwater specimens, 8.1-8.4, 72-78°F, and 1.023-1.025, respectively.
Which ones would you suggest for me?
There are many anemones to choose from so please choose wisely, and if you have doubts do not purchase one. Anemones are not for the beginner saltwater aquarist. I learned this the hard way with an Entacmaea quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemone) specimen. Here is a list of common anemones, arranged from least difficult to most difficult:
Group 1 - Easy
Epicystis crucifer – Rock Flower Anemone
I find this to be the simplest and hardiest anemone to keep. They will do well anywhere, even low light. They do not require supplemental feeding either. Unique beauty and inexpensive, I got my 4” for $8. Expect 8” for maximum size.
Bartholomea annulata – Curly-Cue or Rock Anemone
Another relatively steady anemone that stays at moderate size of 6”.
Condylactis gigantea – Condy or Giant Anemone
An anemone that will grow to 6”.
The above anemones will survive in a tank of at least 20 gallons, but 30 gallons is preferred for stability. None of the above is known for hosting anemonefish. These anemones have the most easily met requirements. Beginners are discouraged from anemones in general, though I believe these are a viable option.
Group 2 - Moderate
Entacmaea quadricolor – Bubble Tip Anemone (Includes Rose)
This is the most popular anemone. It will readily host most anemonefish species. Under desired lighting conditions, the anemone will gain bulb tips. This anemone will not always display its bubble tips, even while perfectly healthy. The Rose variation of this species is a rarity, and quite beautiful. This specimen is the most likely to reproduce by splitting in the home aquarium. Healthy specimens will reach 12”. A 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Macrodactyla doreensis – Long Tentacle Anemone
Second in distribution only to the Bubble Tip Anemone in the aquarium trade, this specimen will reach 20” once full grown. A 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
These two listed species are extremely popular, and moderately hardy by relative comparison. Each has similar light requirements, which are quite high. Both species will benefit from supplemental feeding 2-3 times a week, even if an anemonefish is hosted.
Group 3 - Difficult
Stichodactyla sp. – Carpet Anemone (Includes all color variations)
A large anemone, typically of 20”, with short tentacles, this anemone is very sticky, and potentially venomous. The Electric Green variation is the most common. Again, a 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Heteractis crispa – Sebae Anemone
This anemone will also reach 20”. This anemone is a popular host to anemonefish in the wild. Again, a 30 gallon aquarium is its minimum; however, a more appropriate minimum would be 40-50 gallons.
Heteractis magnifica – Magnificent or Ritteri Anemone
This is a truly magnificent specimen. In the wild it is common to reach 36” across, but 10” is their usual maximum size in the home aquarium. This anemone is often referred to as the “Ritz-Carlton of Anemonefish”. Readily hosts almost every species of anemonefish. Standard minimum is 70 gallons, but I would suggest 90 gallons.
The above group should be regarded as difficult to keep. This group requires the most precise of water conditions, and the heaviest lighting you can fit. These should be viewed as a difficult anemone, even to the moderately experienced aquarist. This group will host the widest range of anemonefish than any of my three listed groups. Anemones here are also extremely strong in their attachment, use caution when retrieving tools or hand.
What are some clear signs of a malnourished anemone?
First and foremost, if you have an anemone that will not stop moving, you must remove it from your tank. This is a sign of sure death. An anemone will stop moving once it has found a preferred spot, and will stay, usually for the remainder of its life. The movement should stop within the first week. Another sign of ill-health is a loose mouth. There should only be a small gap in the lips and they should appear pursed. Another typical sign is a stringy appearance. None of these signs can be overlooked. The most common problem is bleaching, usually Entacmaea quadricolor (Bubble Tip Anemones) exhibit this. Bleaching is when an anemone expels its zooxanthellae and loses all color, due to insufficient light. This can be overcome, and repaired over time through increased lighting and near daily feedings. The second most common problem is dyed anemones, usually Heteractis crispa (Sebae Anemone). Dyed anemones have been injected with a liquid dye that will wear off over time. Again, supplemental feeding is a must to help this anemone pull through. Please avoid these dyed specimens when you select your anemones.
Please remember that anemones are not to be kept by the beginner. They are beautiful animals that require specific attention. Once you are able to keep one, all of the work has paid for itself by their sheer elegance and wonder.
Thanks,
Kevin
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Limi310
Great article by the way! 
