Brown Algae Severe!

Oct 18, 2009
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#1
Hello! Nice to be here and thanks for taking the time to read my post and hopefully solve this issue!
To start with, I have 4 fish tanks in my house. Through trial and error all have had the same problem at one point in time or another. It's this reddish brown algae(slime) that seems to consume everything in my tank.
I started with a 29 gallon community for my first tank. After the tank cycled and I learned some very harsh and immoral lessons about fish keeping, I finally stabilized the tank and it is running efficiently now. During the course of this tank lesson learning process I had a time where the tank became overwhelmed by this reddish-brown slime, and still to this day it comes back mainly on the glass where I can scrape it off. No biggy right? Well this brings me to the other tanks, all of which have experienced this problem except for one. Another 29 gallon that was very slowly seeded by the water from a 75 gallon with perfect parameters. I unintentionally cycled it without fish just so that I would have a "Hospital" tank. And now it is more efficient than any of the other tanks(imagine that, it only houses a blue lobster,lol).
Which brings me to my current problem tank. It's a 125 gallon with 3 O's, a common pleco, 2 Bala's, a feather-finned cat, and a baby fire eel. I have 2 penguin biowheel 350's for HOB, and an FX5 to do the rest. For media I use only the common carbon cartridges for the biowheels, and for the FX5 I have ceramics in the bottom tray with some filter floss, the second tray has some peat moss pellets for softening my ever-so-hard tap-water, and the top tray has s different type of bio-ceramic along with some "clear-max" pouches I was advised to get by my LFS guy.
The algae problem came before the peat and the clear-max was put into the filters, the peat was a result of dying plants, and the clear-max was for this algae problem, supposively to remove phosphates.
I am not too familiar with this stage of care for my fish, I only have experience in keeping the parameters at the correct readings and housing fish and tankmates appropriately. This stuff is just plain nasty. It has covered everything in my tank, and killed pretty much any live plant I have attepted to keep. Through the research I have done I only have gotten more confused as to what it could be and now I am lead to ask for help verbally from the people that I deem as experts in the field, You. Please help me, for this is getting really expensive and I am sure that removing the rocks and decor every so often to clean is only ticking my O's off.Here are some pics, I did just clean the rocks and plants a day or two ago, but as you can see, the filter mechs and the live plants are covered in the stuff.
Oh and the readings for the tank are PH=7.5, Ammonia=0, Nitrites=0, Nitrates=20-25, and GH/KH=about 230PPM(This reading is a few days old, I can update later if needed)




Tigger apparently wanted to have his picture taken,lmao.
Thanks again for any help you can give!
 

Oct 18, 2009
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#3
i only feed the oscar's once a day, and only a few pellets, the cat and thebala's clean-up after em too. the eel gets a few bloodworms after lights out once a day also, so i don't feel it's a feeding issue...
 

Feb 27, 2009
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#4
It's a 125 gallon with 3 O's, a common pleco, 2 Bala's, a feather-finned cat, and a baby fire eel. I have 2 penguin biowheel 350's for HOB, and an FX5 to do the rest. For media I use only the common carbon cartridges for the biowheels, and for the FX5 I have ceramics in the bottom tray with some filter floss, the second tray has some peat moss pellets for softening my ever-so-hard tap-water, and the top tray has s different type of bio-ceramic along with some "clear-max" pouches I was advised to get by my LFS guy.
The algae problem came before the peat and the clear-max was put into the filters, the peat was a result of dying plants, and the clear-max was for this algae problem, supposively to remove phosphates.

Algae is a plant, it needs nutrients, CO2 and light to grow, just as all plants do. The nutrients and CO2 can be had from just the fish. The three elements must be in balance for the live plants you WANT to grow to thrive and outcompete the algae.

Live plants need phosphate to grow. The only reason to use a phosphate remover is if you are adding something like 'pH Down' (which adds phospates) to try to lower the pH.

You listed the animals in the tank, and the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, etc readings. Could you also list the plants you are trying to grow and the lighting over the tank (and photoperiod you use - hours per day the lights are on)? Also, what is your water change schedule like (how much water and how often)?
 

Oct 18, 2009
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#5
The plants in my tank are numerous hornwort, a handful of amazon swords, a bunch of java moss, and a couple (what i believe to be) micro-swords.

At the moment I have three 24" T5 fixtures. All three house 2 18000k power-glo's and 2 6700k bulbs. So a total of 12 bulbs. 6 power-glo's and 6 6700k's. They are normally on a timer that turns em on at 8:30 in the morning, and turns them off at 8:30 at night. When they go off, some blue led's come on as well as an air wand to keep oxygen in the tank overnight( I agree this is not necessary, however , it looks cool in the led lights, lol).

I mainly change about 15-20% twice a week, trying to vacuum the sand to the best of my ability.
Thanks again for your help!
 

Aug 16, 2009
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SW Pennsylvania
#6
The same thing is happening to me. At first, it was because my dad was overfeeding when I was at school. I've hidden the fish food and now this isn't happening. I have one sword plant and that is it. There is a red brown slime coat on every leaf of my fake plants. I have .5 watt per gallon, and I understand I need to increase light and CO2, but I cannot do this for awhile. I also have green spot algae. Lights are on about 7 hours a day. Sorry to hijack your thread.