Hi I am new to saltwater and have a month old 10gallon nano tank. I am currently dealing with a brown algae out break and I am unsure of how to deal with it. All my nitrates, nitrites are at 0ppm, ph is at 8.2 and my ammonia is 0ppm, sal is at 1.023 I have had live cured figi rock in it for 3 weeks now and just added my clean up crew 4 days ago. (no fish in tank) I had seen some brown algae in the tank before but this time its a bit out of control. It is all over my substrate and glass but not on my rock. I currently have my light on for 12hours a day. Any rec would be great. i.e. water change/vac sub/additives or tips *twirlysmi I was thinking my light needs to move to like 9hours a day but my husband said thats too low. I just would like to get on my way to adding my two fish.
Brown Algae
- Thread starter baylasida17
- Start date
I did the light off for nearly a whole two weeks. All was clear then I went ahead and got my fish and just a week later the brown algae is back =( Any tips since now light is needed? I read doing 20% water changes twice a week was a way to kill it? I really like to get over this algae hurdle so I can start adding the softies soon.
If you are getting algae growth it from nutrients and light. You could try backing down the light to 4-6 hours and feed a little less. The nutrients is needs is phosphate and nitrate. It will also take up ammonia and nitrite as well but if you tank is established (cycled) then there will not be any. Where is the algae growing? If its on the rocks only it could be phosphate leaching out of the rock, if its all over its from excess nutrients from food and dying alga. Nutrients are ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and phosphate. All these come directly from feeding but phosphate can leach out of the rock until is all gone as well. Almost all new SW tanks have the problem you are having and it will pass in a couple weeks to a couple months. Be sure to water change and turn the light hours down.
On another note about nutrient readings. Many new SW owners think that because the tests show zero for nitrate and phosphate that there are not any but, if this was true one would not have an algae problem. The reason is that the algae takes these nutrients up before they store in the water column. There are special expensive test kits you can buy that test for ultra low nutrients but whats the sense, if you have alga you know they are there. Your tank will come around and be a spectacular site. It takes a little time for a SW tank to fully cycle. You will learn how to feed and water change your tank to keep it in check. Also, don't fall victim to buying all the SW additive bottles, if you are doing weekly water changes all the stuff you need is in the salt mix.
If you have questions feel free to ask about any subject if other things come up.
On another note about nutrient readings. Many new SW owners think that because the tests show zero for nitrate and phosphate that there are not any but, if this was true one would not have an algae problem. The reason is that the algae takes these nutrients up before they store in the water column. There are special expensive test kits you can buy that test for ultra low nutrients but whats the sense, if you have alga you know they are there. Your tank will come around and be a spectacular site. It takes a little time for a SW tank to fully cycle. You will learn how to feed and water change your tank to keep it in check. Also, don't fall victim to buying all the SW additive bottles, if you are doing weekly water changes all the stuff you need is in the salt mix.
If you have questions feel free to ask about any subject if other things come up.
You can DIY a UAS scrubber to eliminate the algae.
Here is the link: http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/fre...inate-green-hair-bubble-turf-slime-algae.html
Here is the link: http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/fre...inate-green-hair-bubble-turf-slime-algae.html