cleaning
- Thread starter rosealeedawn
- Start date
I am sorry. My wife is trying to be helpful, posting for me. Let me offer a little more information. I've been keeping a 30G FW successfully for the last 2 or 3 years, always with the dream of upgrading to SW. I have recently been fortunate purchased a 2nd hand 90G tank with stand and canopy, lights, Emporer 400, protein skimmer, Fluval 404, and 100 lbs of coral (for $400). The tank hadn't been used for approx 6 months prior to my purchase and as such needs a clean. My wifes simplified question remains. How do I go about sterilizing everything. Razor blade scraping and water will clean the tank, but should I boil the coral? How about the rest of the equipment? Obviously I don't want to use any kind of detergents, and don't want to melt or damage anything with boiling.
Also, can I used water from my FW tank to start the cycle, or would this create a different kind of bacteria?
Am considering (well, hoping) to use my 30G as a sump. I've scoured the various sites but cannot find a simple explaination as to how set it up. Any help on this matter also would be appreciated.
Kind thanks to all.
Also, can I used water from my FW tank to start the cycle, or would this create a different kind of bacteria?
Am considering (well, hoping) to use my 30G as a sump. I've scoured the various sites but cannot find a simple explaination as to how set it up. Any help on this matter also would be appreciated.
Kind thanks to all.
$400 for that tank and equipment sounds like a good deal 
Since the tank hasn't been used... the 'corals' are all dead right? You might want to think about how much room they take up and whether you even want to use them in your tank or not before attempting to sanitize or clean them?
I'm just starting out in salt, but looking for some of the same information as you are for setting up a larger tank in the future and learned a LOT the past couple of weeks Things like...if I were you I'd dissolve the salt mixes into water before pouring them into the tank...and dont get one of those cheapo swingarm hydrometers...get a refractometer instead. There's a cool one on sale at Dr Fosters & Smith right now... (eep, I dont remember the url)
Cycling with SW is different than cycling with FW...so using used water from your FW tank wont do anything except add nitrates to your SW which you dont want.
Something that didn't come with your setup is probably test kits? If you have the usual ones for FW you might look at getting new ones for SW or making sure the ones you have will work for SW.
Reading around these threads and doing searching is always a good start. Good Luck!
Since the tank hasn't been used... the 'corals' are all dead right? You might want to think about how much room they take up and whether you even want to use them in your tank or not before attempting to sanitize or clean them?I'm just starting out in salt, but looking for some of the same information as you are for setting up a larger tank in the future and learned a LOT the past couple of weeks
Things like...if I were you I'd dissolve the salt mixes into water before pouring them into the tank...and dont get one of those cheapo swingarm hydrometers...get a refractometer instead. There's a cool one on sale at Dr Fosters & Smith right now... (eep, I dont remember the url)Cycling with SW is different than cycling with FW...so using used water from your FW tank wont do anything except add nitrates to your SW which you dont want.
Something that didn't come with your setup is probably test kits? If you have the usual ones for FW you might look at getting new ones for SW or making sure the ones you have will work for SW.
Reading around these threads and doing searching is always a good start. Good Luck!
Thankyou KahluaZzZ for the quick response. Due to cost I am hoping to use as little live rock (or live sand) as is possible.
Cleaning with vinegar seems a great solution. I didn't think of that.
I am glad the fluval isn't necessary. The tank was advertised as having the fluval but after closer inspection it doesn't appear to be included. The seller is kindly checking for me.
Regarding the sump - I am hoping that I can hang the Emporer and the skimmer on the side of the 30G and simply move the water through using powerheads.
Cleaning with vinegar seems a great solution. I didn't think of that.
I am glad the fluval isn't necessary. The tank was advertised as having the fluval but after closer inspection it doesn't appear to be included. The seller is kindly checking for me.
Regarding the sump - I am hoping that I can hang the Emporer and the skimmer on the side of the 30G and simply move the water through using powerheads.
Thankyou froggy. $400 was a fantastic deal I think, and yes it did come with a miriad of test kits. Also came with the expected cheapo swingarm hydrometer. I have the latest Foster and Smith catalog which I now see does have what looks to be a good refractometer on sale for $43. Thanks for that!!
The corals are all dead and I have them in the tank right now. They look good and I'm happy with the quantity (even I think once the live rock and substrate is added). I'll keep the FW water out of there and start from a fresh cycle.
Thanks again.
The corals are all dead and I have them in the tank right now. They look good and I'm happy with the quantity (even I think once the live rock and substrate is added). I'll keep the FW water out of there and start from a fresh cycle.
Thanks again.
Have you thought about using RO or DI water for the tank? Its purified water, can be bought at either a fish shop or a food store for around a buck a gallon. It might depend on wether or not you are doing live corals but I think it might be a good idea to try it out if you can scrounge up a few "extra" bucks.
For the powerheads I would check out the Seio powerheads in the foster and smith magaizine. Everyone I know who has one is very pleased with them, they work great.
For the powerheads I would check out the Seio powerheads in the foster and smith magaizine. Everyone I know who has one is very pleased with them, they work great.
Thanks MushyMan. I was wondering about the water. I haven't tested the water around here (recently moved) so I don't know what state it is in. I'd like to create a reef tank but am a little hesitant. Think I'll start out with just a FOWLR with a couple of anenomes.
I do have distilled water delivered regularly and have 3 bottles in storage. Will have to think more about that.
I have a bunch of powerheads but will check out the Seio one's if needed. I'm assuming by your lack of comment about my sump, that the setup I've suggested is practical? I think I'm basically moving the filters onto another tank underneath (no refugium??) to hide them from view.
I do have distilled water delivered regularly and have 3 bottles in storage. Will have to think more about that.
I have a bunch of powerheads but will check out the Seio one's if needed. I'm assuming by your lack of comment about my sump, that the setup I've suggested is practical? I think I'm basically moving the filters onto another tank underneath (no refugium??) to hide them from view.
Oh I see. If your current powerheads work then I wouldnt bother too much about getting new ones.
I had lack of comment on the sump because I have never used one yet and dont know the best set up.
I dont know about a couple of anemonies they might be tricky to keep, and might require adequate lighting I beleive but not sure there. Corals need the right lighting too, such as metal halides or something like a T-5
Certain skimmers can be attached to the sump, it depends on what kind. Some even come with an optional sump-less or use with a sump kit. What type is the one you have?
I had lack of comment on the sump because I have never used one yet and dont know the best set up.
I dont know about a couple of anemonies they might be tricky to keep, and might require adequate lighting I beleive but not sure there. Corals need the right lighting too, such as metal halides or something like a T-5
Certain skimmers can be attached to the sump, it depends on what kind. Some even come with an optional sump-less or use with a sump kit. What type is the one you have?
I have a CPR Bak-Pak 2 Skimmer. Foster & Smith states that it is suitable for aquariums up to 60G in size. Mine is 90G (excl. sump) but assume it was adequate for the previous owner.
My tank meassures 48" x 30" x 15" so I believe it is a deep one and would need additional lighting for anything other than fish. There are 4 spaces for lights and I currently have 3 tubes installed. One of which is the blue which is supposed to reach deeper depths.
My tank meassures 48" x 30" x 15" so I believe it is a deep one and would need additional lighting for anything other than fish. There are 4 spaces for lights and I currently have 3 tubes installed. One of which is the blue which is supposed to reach deeper depths.
All the pictures and diagrams I find of sumps seem to be made up of compartments. This isn't what I had in mind. In short again, I was planning on having my 30G under the main tank, my bak-pak skimmer hanging on that, along with the Emporer and with powerheads pushing the water through. Am assuming that using two of the same powerheads will keep the inflow and outflow pretty constant. Neither tank is drilled so a simple setup of pvc pipes will be necassary. Also a couple of powerheads in the main 90G tank to help the water circulate and avoid dead spots.
Can anyone who's experienced with sumps give me a thumbs up on this idea?
Can anyone who's experienced with sumps give me a thumbs up on this idea?
Using the powerheads to get from display to sump is impossible, and an invitation to flood the house. It's a really bad idea. As the tank is empty you should get it drilled, it's much better than using HOB overflows.
30 inches is a deep tank. Ifyou want anemonaes you will need MH lighting.
The CPR is a little weak for that tank, but better than nothing!
30 inches is a deep tank. Ifyou want anemonaes you will need MH lighting.
The CPR is a little weak for that tank, but better than nothing!
Wayne, regarding drilling - I'm not sure that I could get any assurances from any miller who drilled the tank, that it wouldn't be damaged in the process. I was thinking of going for a HOB overflow, something like described at this page http://members.iinet.net.au/~conquest/andy/maswa/siphon.html
How is drilling preferable?
I'll check out more about Metal Halide lighting at the LFS.
How is drilling preferable?
I'll check out more about Metal Halide lighting at the LFS.
Drilling is preferable as ultimately it won't fail. If you want to rely on a syphon that's fine by me, but be aware they can fail too. I wouldn't do it.
MH is powerful, but it is costy. However to match it's results you'll end up spending a bunch of money on VHO or T5's if you decide to go down those routes, plus you're forever changing lightbulbs for any fluorescent system. If you are happy to go fish only or better still FO with live rock then you can do perfectly well with 4 fluorescent tubes , 2 *10K and an actinic.
MH is powerful, but it is costy. However to match it's results you'll end up spending a bunch of money on VHO or T5's if you decide to go down those routes, plus you're forever changing lightbulbs for any fluorescent system. If you are happy to go fish only or better still FO with live rock then you can do perfectly well with 4 fluorescent tubes , 2 *10K and an actinic.
Sorry, I am a new to Marine tanks. My asking questions is just creating more questions that I'm sure have been asked a thousand times before in the forums. I will rumage around and see what I can find for myself. And then get back with anything I can't discover.
Thank you for all the assistance thus far.
Oh, and perhaps I should create my own account that ISN'T my wifes name!! *crazysmil
Thank you for all the assistance thus far.
Oh, and perhaps I should create my own account that ISN'T my wifes name!! *crazysmil