Daily 10% Water Changes???

C

colesea

Superstar Fish
#2
Oct 22, 2002
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#2
Water changes are the only way to remove NitrAtes (planted tanks, and marine live-rock nonwithstanding at the moment). If you have NitrAtes, along with zero ammonia and zero nitrItes, then your tank is already cycled to your current bioload, and you should be doing 10% weekly changes as maintance.

If you have nitrIte spikes that are becomming toxic while your tank is still cycling, then 10% water changes are the best way to reduce the toxicity. Yes they will slow down the cycling process, but it is better a slow and patient cycle instead of dead fishies.

Most LFS are not aware of the fishless cycle process, and if they are, they frequently don't recommend it because they are dealing with an impatient public who want their fishies =now= (I know, I used to work in one). There is an article in the beginners forum about fishless cycling.

Keep in mind that a fish tank does not cycle 100%. The amount of beneficial bacteria only equals the output of what fish you have in it (ie 1 fishie equals a bioload of "1" beneficial bacteria). The introduction of new fish to even a cycled tank may produce additional ammonia/nitrite spikes that must be diluted with water changes until the bioload can catch up. (ie 2 fishies in a tank with only a 1 fish bioload will need to re-cycle to produce a 2 fish bioload).
~~Colesea
 

WyMike

WyMike

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#3
Jan 2, 2003
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The Powerhead I have running the UGF turns 80 GPH. In a 15 Gal tank is this enough? Mathematically it should turn the water over 5.3 times an hour. I would like to keep the tank as *clean* as possible without a bunch of stuff *hanging* on the back of it.

Once the tank is established, I would like to have at least ten fish. 5-6 Tiger Barbs. A few Platys and a Clown Loach. Maybe some Ghost Shrimp and snails as time goes by. Live plants would be a nice addition once everything settles down too.

If the bioload requires it I'll run a HOB filter. If not, I'd just as soon keep the tank clean.

Your thoughts colsea?
 

WyMike

WyMike

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#5
Jan 2, 2003
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After another 10% water change this morning, after one last night, I tested the Ammonia and Ph.

Ammonia: .05-1.0
Ph: 7.2

I'll head to the LFS and pick up a Nitrate/Nitrite test kit to check those levels.
 

WyMike

WyMike

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#7
Jan 2, 2003
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#7
Just picked up a Hagen Nitrite test kit.

Nitrites: 0
Ammonia: .5 - 1.0

Is it possible to slow down the cycle process that quickly?

Only two Tiger Barbs remain out of 6. One is fairly active, Male, the other, female, hangs out just above the powerhead and next to the heater. Sort of like a small fish garage up there. No doubt she's staying out of the current.

Thanks for the assistance! *celebrate
 

C

colesea

Superstar Fish
#8
Oct 22, 2002
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#8
UGF filters are fine, just a pain to clean. Biocapacity of UGFs are the same as HOB sponges. It is the mechanical filtration that traps dirt and debris underneath the filter plate. This can be a pain to vaccuum out, and usually needs to be broken down every six months to clean out. With the fish load you plan for your tank, you'll probably be cleaning your UGF every three.

Clown loaches like to school and should be in numbers of 4+. They can also grow fairly large, so 15 gallons may house them for a year, but won't house them a full lifespan (I think they've been documented at least in the 10 year range).

What do you mean by slow the cycle process that quickly? Your cycle will process at a fairly constant rate. Just because the ammonia may be 1.0 ppm today, doesn't mean it won't rocket to 2.0 ppm tomorrow and you'll be back to water changes. When you remove the ammonia, you slow down the the ammonia-to-nitrite process because you have now removed the food source of your bacteria. Allowing the ammonia to spike (such as in a fishless cycle) and come down on its own without water changes moves a cycle along "faster" because the bacteria have a reason to get growing.

Daily testing and plotting your values in a program like Excel will allow you to monitor more easily.
 

WyMike

WyMike

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#9
Jan 2, 2003
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Well this morning another Tiger Barb was dead. Now there is only one left out of the intitial 6.

Today's readings:

Ammonia: .05-1.0
Nitrites: 0
Ph: 7.2 - 7.6 (Hard to discern the difference on the card)

I'm going to add Ph Down to the tank to get it more in line with a profile on Tiger Barbs I located. http://www.fishprofiles.com/profiles/cyprinids/tiger.asp

Think I'll let nature takes it course from here and chalk it up to experience.

Any other Tiger Barb keepers out here who can steer me in a better direction please do so! Thanks! :)
 

C

colesea

Superstar Fish
#10
Oct 22, 2002
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#10
No!! No no no pH down. Your pH is not the cause of the tiger barb death. Trust me. Your ammonia level is at 1.0 ppm. This is what is killing your fish. My own TB lives in a pH of about 7.8, and he's been that way for 3 years. It is not the pH.

Please be patient. Loosing fish happens, especially in an unstable tank such as yours. If you start messing with the pH now, you'll really send things to hell in a handbasket.
~~Colesea
 

WyMike

WyMike

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#12
Jan 2, 2003
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#12
Patient!?

Well the last of the Tiger Barb's is pretty active. He enjoys swimming up the down current in the corner the PH shoots into! Then he rides it back to the bottom of the tank.

Tiger Barb's ROCK! But I can't help from feeling he is lonley now that all of his swimming buddies are gone. :(

I read your post to daddylovesfish and his odor problem. Waiting until the ammonia hits 0 to add additional Barb's seems like a winner. *thumbsup2

Will leave the Ph as is for now.

Thanks for the advice colesea. Appreciate it greatly! :D
 

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