I have 2 redtail tinfoil barbs and 2 blue gouramis in a 55 gal tank. My barbs are not as silver as they were when I purchased them and they are turning very dull in color almost no shine at all. Almost a dark grey, what is this and what can I do? Still learning, pls bear with me, in my defense I do learn very fast, lol.
dull looking fish??????
- Thread starter cocoa_sfish
- Start date
Ammonia reading is 0.02. Went to petsmart today to get nitrite and nitrate test kit, but pet store clerk said I didn't need that, so I just got an ammonia and ph tester kit. Ammonia and ph showing it is at a safe level. I'm finding it hard to keep my water clear. I have been doing a 20% water change every other day for a week , but the water is still very cloudy, but I am not over feeding them. I'm trying not to give up this is my first tank. From the middle of their head down the side of their head and on their back to their top fin is a very dark color. They almost just look dirty. Also a few greenish looking spots. Just confused?!?!
unwritten is correct about the employees though I tend to agree that the nitrate tests aren't needed.
My guess on the cloudy water is that you are doing too many water changes. I would reduce the wc's if your tank has already completed its cycle.
I assume it didn't though and that you are doing a "fish-in cycle" in which case continue your wc's and know that your fish will become stressed/sick and most likely will not make it through the cycling process. (maybe the gouramis will make it)
Ammonia may be at safe level NOW but that is going to climb higher before it is truly at a safe level. Then nitrites will do the same. Both are toxic to fish.
Doing the fish-in cycle will make the process of cycling take longer because you are doing those wc's.
If I were you I'd buy the tests, do some reading on cycling, and definately wait before adding more fish. At this point you don't have to give up on fish-keeping. Its a great experience once you are equipped with the facts.
Also, there is bottled bacteria you can buy from your lfs. Adding it may help in this case (you wouldn't have to do so many wc's) and it is inexpensive.
It won't cycle your tank quicker but it would help the fish because it would eat the ammonia. They'd still be subjected to nitrites so keep testing.
Look for articles, links and stickies regarding "fish-in" cycle for more accurate and trustworthy information.
My guess on the cloudy water is that you are doing too many water changes. I would reduce the wc's if your tank has already completed its cycle.
I assume it didn't though and that you are doing a "fish-in cycle" in which case continue your wc's and know that your fish will become stressed/sick and most likely will not make it through the cycling process. (maybe the gouramis will make it)
Ammonia may be at safe level NOW but that is going to climb higher before it is truly at a safe level. Then nitrites will do the same. Both are toxic to fish.
Doing the fish-in cycle will make the process of cycling take longer because you are doing those wc's.
If I were you I'd buy the tests, do some reading on cycling, and definately wait before adding more fish. At this point you don't have to give up on fish-keeping. Its a great experience once you are equipped with the facts.
Also, there is bottled bacteria you can buy from your lfs. Adding it may help in this case (you wouldn't have to do so many wc's) and it is inexpensive.
It won't cycle your tank quicker but it would help the fish because it would eat the ammonia. They'd still be subjected to nitrites so keep testing.
Look for articles, links and stickies regarding "fish-in" cycle for more accurate and trustworthy information.
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Good advice about listening to employees in lfs', but actually the nitrate test is needed. First, you know your tank is cycled when ammonia and nitrite remain at zero and you have a nitrate reading. Secondly, you test for nitrates for a while to determine a good water change schedule for your tank, and also when something happens you test for all three.
I can't really see how more water changes could possibly cause cloudiness...?
Also, if it is a white cloudiness it is a good thing, it is a population explosion of the bacteria that eat ammonia and nitrite. Don't try to get rid of it. Look at it as a good sign, smile, and wait it out. It will clear up when there are plenty of good bacteria in the tank.
That's okay, though, because the water changes are what will save your fish, or at least minimize losses. Also, if the tank has been up for some weeks, ammonia may have already peaked and nitrites may already be the problem. Only by testing for the big three can you tell for sure.
Good advice on researching and waiting.
Something else you can do is if you know someone with an established tank, ask if they can spare a filter sponge or some sort of filter media, bring it to your tank keeping it wet during transport, and swish it in your tank, or insert it into your filter if it will fit. Introducing the beneficial bacteria into the tank actually will shorten the cycling time period. I really can't speak about the bottled bacteria additives as I have never used them.
On the subject of pH... never mind what they tell you, you do not need to monkey around with the pH. Actually that can be deadly to your fish. Leave it alone. A stable pH is much more important than a particular pH. They'll sell you ph-up, ph-down, your ph will swing wildly, your fish will get sick, they'll sell you medicine, your fish will die, they'll sell you new fish... you get the picture. The kid in the fish store probably has little to no experience with tanks, probably watched a training video in which they were told ph is vitally important... it is a sales pitch. Just smile and nod, then get the test kits you need.
I can't really see how more water changes could possibly cause cloudiness...?
Also, if it is a white cloudiness it is a good thing, it is a population explosion of the bacteria that eat ammonia and nitrite. Don't try to get rid of it. Look at it as a good sign, smile, and wait it out. It will clear up when there are plenty of good bacteria in the tank.
That's okay, though, because the water changes are what will save your fish, or at least minimize losses. Also, if the tank has been up for some weeks, ammonia may have already peaked and nitrites may already be the problem. Only by testing for the big three can you tell for sure.
Good advice on researching and waiting.
Something else you can do is if you know someone with an established tank, ask if they can spare a filter sponge or some sort of filter media, bring it to your tank keeping it wet during transport, and swish it in your tank, or insert it into your filter if it will fit. Introducing the beneficial bacteria into the tank actually will shorten the cycling time period. I really can't speak about the bottled bacteria additives as I have never used them.
On the subject of pH... never mind what they tell you, you do not need to monkey around with the pH. Actually that can be deadly to your fish. Leave it alone. A stable pH is much more important than a particular pH. They'll sell you ph-up, ph-down, your ph will swing wildly, your fish will get sick, they'll sell you medicine, your fish will die, they'll sell you new fish... you get the picture. The kid in the fish store probably has little to no experience with tanks, probably watched a training video in which they were told ph is vitally important... it is a sales pitch. Just smile and nod, then get the test kits you need.
*thumbsup2 agreed Judy. You do know how to explain better than I.
Nitrates do show when cycling is done.
The nitrites drop to 0 after the peak so you WILL have nitrates even after a wc. I believe this is what the lfs employee was thinking by advising against the nitrate test.Thats what I meant. I don't see the reasoning behind advising against an nitrite test though.
You'd think their objective would be to sell as much as possible.
Nitrates do show when cycling is done.
The nitrites drop to 0 after the peak so you WILL have nitrates even after a wc. I believe this is what the lfs employee was thinking by advising against the nitrate test.Thats what I meant. I don't see the reasoning behind advising against an nitrite test though.
You'd think their objective would be to sell as much as possible.
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I've been reading some threads lately about people having this issue from new decorations and excessive light. But for me the water is whitish cloudy from adding new water so that is what I used to base my theory on.
Anytime my tanks were established I had no white cloudiness after a wc. The water would be crystal clear. I'm glad you added this in your response (for my own information) because as you say it is a good sign.
Anytime my tanks were established I had no white cloudiness after a wc. The water would be crystal clear. I'm glad you added this in your response (for my own information) because as you say it is a good sign.
Is your tank well aerated? I couldn't say for sure but a very dull fish sounds like he could also be getting less oxygen than he needs. Maybe, just to be safe, lower the water level a little so your filter splashes more and puts more oxygen in the water. If anything, more oxygen won't hurt, even if that is not what is causing their colour issues. Just a thought.