dumb question of the day
- Thread starter PCFishGuy
- Start date
I don't know about anyone else, but I usually only use charcoal when I have goldfish. I use a filter that is for a much bigger tank then I have, which means the filtration media (the sponges, lol) doesn't need to be changed as often. I don't need to do weekly water changes. Eventually you just get a feel for when to change water, how much, etc. You can also test the water to be sure until you have been doing it longer.
Changing water is really just based on your bio load and how fast your tank produces nitrate or other harmful chemicals if it is not fully established. Also is just part of keeping it clean from left over food and stuff in the substrate.
The reason why carbon isn't used as much anymore because its not really necessary. Carbon is more of a purifier than a filter in that it makes your water clear looking rather than removing toxins from the water. If your water is already clear and healthy then all you need in the biological filter and the mechanical filter really, which will remove ammonia/nitrite and pieces of debris. Also because carbon can remove helpful things that you don't necessarily want removed like medications.
The reason why carbon isn't used as much anymore because its not really necessary. Carbon is more of a purifier than a filter in that it makes your water clear looking rather than removing toxins from the water. If your water is already clear and healthy then all you need in the biological filter and the mechanical filter really, which will remove ammonia/nitrite and pieces of debris. Also because carbon can remove helpful things that you don't necessarily want removed like medications.
Maybe people didn't do weekly water changes because carbon kept their tank from smelling bad or looking dirty, but it doesn't reduce nitrates, so the water changes were actually needed, from the point of view of fish health. (If your tank smells, there's a problem; and clear water is absolutely no indicator of water quality.) You need to keep nitrates down to below 20 whenever possible.
Just out of curiosity, Violet... why do you find charcoal to be advantageous in a goldfish tank? I have goldfish and would like to know your thoughts.
Overfiltering is most definitely a good thing in a goldfish tank; in fact, I'm preparing to up the filtration in mine. Also, how do your nitrate levels usually run, how many goldfish, and how often do you do water changes? I have three overwintering in a 29, and I have to do sizable weekly water changes, but my filtration is only adequate.
Just out of curiosity, Violet... why do you find charcoal to be advantageous in a goldfish tank? I have goldfish and would like to know your thoughts.
Overfiltering is most definitely a good thing in a goldfish tank; in fact, I'm preparing to up the filtration in mine. Also, how do your nitrate levels usually run, how many goldfish, and how often do you do water changes? I have three overwintering in a 29, and I have to do sizable weekly water changes, but my filtration is only adequate.
I started out using carbon and have just kind of stuck with it. It does keep the water crystal clear but as was pointed out earlier, it is no substitute for water changes.
I started feeding my fish some super high nutrition dry food. After I noticed a kind of "river" smell to the tank I found that the fish were not completely digesting all the nutrients and were poo'ing some of them out, providing food for bacteria. I changed the carbon, got them on a regimen where I rotate the feedings with different foods and the T.O. (tank odor) was completely gone.
One more thing; those were not dumb questions. In fact, I haven't seen a dumb question yet.
I started feeding my fish some super high nutrition dry food. After I noticed a kind of "river" smell to the tank I found that the fish were not completely digesting all the nutrients and were poo'ing some of them out, providing food for bacteria. I changed the carbon, got them on a regimen where I rotate the feedings with different foods and the T.O. (tank odor) was completely gone.
One more thing; those were not dumb questions. In fact, I haven't seen a dumb question yet.
I don't use Carbon in my tanks because they're all planted, and the carbon would essentially remove some of the nutrients my plants require.
I also do water changes because I try to do the Estimative Index fertilization routine, and have to do a 50% water change each week to reset the system.
There's several reasons for different things, so it's good that you asked.
I also do water changes because I try to do the Estimative Index fertilization routine, and have to do a 50% water change each week to reset the system.
There's several reasons for different things, so it's good that you asked.
ok, so it is now past midnight, I will try again then for the dumb question of the day ( sorry mrCoffee)
Why the large water changes other than those doing EI ( i understand why the water change with EI )
Reason i ask.... many years ago i quit my aquarium hobby until just recently again, prior to that i had always had aquariums from Jr high all through high school i kept multiple 10g tanks, while in the Army i still on occasion managed an aquarium, sold it to another Sgt when i ETS'd in '77 after two terms with good ol Unc Sam.
So civilian life and started to increase in tank size first to a 30g, then a 55 marine, and finally up to a 300g fw ( oh man that one was beautiful.
I have used ( at the time) the old corner filters run on air, up through UGF's with Airlift , then upgraded to power heads, then add power filters etc, all my tanks ( except the Marine) where FW. now i did maintain them on a regular basis changing filter media and carbon on a monthly basis etc etc, i have had run-in's with a few epidemics, but managed to squelch them every time, My tanks always looked clean and the fish healthy, but never in all those years did i do weekly water changes of any consequence and in the case of the 300g never much more than "top off" the tank level. And yes more than a few had live plants, they where not prolific like you see in todays examples, but the plants did grow, and they where a nice green, so in a word healthy. I had never heard of EI dosing etc, just used the fert pots etc. no pressurized CO2, and no algae of any consequence anyways.
So now i am back, and i read of 25% weekly water changes 170w lighting systems, UGF's are bad for plants, no carbon, no fish, with fish, silent cycling,filtration rates in the hundreds of GPH rates, water movement approaching 1000 GPH rates and these are the less than 90g tanks etc etc etc, it seems everything has gotten backwards and or upside down, and or grossly over complicated , AHHH but with a bit or research, i find it is not all so backwards, lighting easily explained ( and de-bunked ), DIY and pressurized CO2, DC's and BC's, EI, RO filtering, Cannister filters, T5 HO, MHD, Light color temps into the 10,000k range the alphabet in use is impressive, and all towards the dramatically improved live plant tanks we are talking over growth in months. most is to of course to increase some facet of this hobby, out of all of this i still (other than in the case of EI dosing) can not find a reason to change the water in the amounts mentioned and at the frequency mentioned, OTHER than no carbon.
So some one 'splain to me WHY the frequent and large water changes in an otherwise healthy tank ! ! !
fish still cause ammonia, and you still get nitrites and nitrates, we just didnt have biological filters then, other than the Marine setup, and by todays standards that was crude. So how was i or anyone else doing all this so easily and yes i ever bred fish, Fancy Tail guppies and Green Swords ( thats why i had so many 10g )when i got out of HS, no computers and internet to look this stuff up on, just trial and error, and the guy at the LFS.
and as a side note I am really stoked to get my new tanks fired up, Stands are done and ready to go, hoods and lights are next up, and already 50% complete, both tanks to be live plant tanks, maybe in a year or so i might convert one to marine, HOWEVER if my history is any indication, there will be a third instead.
Why the large water changes other than those doing EI ( i understand why the water change with EI )
Reason i ask.... many years ago i quit my aquarium hobby until just recently again, prior to that i had always had aquariums from Jr high all through high school i kept multiple 10g tanks, while in the Army i still on occasion managed an aquarium, sold it to another Sgt when i ETS'd in '77 after two terms with good ol Unc Sam.
So civilian life and started to increase in tank size first to a 30g, then a 55 marine, and finally up to a 300g fw ( oh man that one was beautiful.
I have used ( at the time) the old corner filters run on air, up through UGF's with Airlift , then upgraded to power heads, then add power filters etc, all my tanks ( except the Marine) where FW. now i did maintain them on a regular basis changing filter media and carbon on a monthly basis etc etc, i have had run-in's with a few epidemics, but managed to squelch them every time, My tanks always looked clean and the fish healthy, but never in all those years did i do weekly water changes of any consequence and in the case of the 300g never much more than "top off" the tank level. And yes more than a few had live plants, they where not prolific like you see in todays examples, but the plants did grow, and they where a nice green, so in a word healthy. I had never heard of EI dosing etc, just used the fert pots etc. no pressurized CO2, and no algae of any consequence anyways.
So now i am back, and i read of 25% weekly water changes 170w lighting systems, UGF's are bad for plants, no carbon, no fish, with fish, silent cycling,filtration rates in the hundreds of GPH rates, water movement approaching 1000 GPH rates and these are the less than 90g tanks etc etc etc, it seems everything has gotten backwards and or upside down, and or grossly over complicated , AHHH but with a bit or research, i find it is not all so backwards, lighting easily explained ( and de-bunked ), DIY and pressurized CO2, DC's and BC's, EI, RO filtering, Cannister filters, T5 HO, MHD, Light color temps into the 10,000k range the alphabet in use is impressive, and all towards the dramatically improved live plant tanks we are talking over growth in months. most is to of course to increase some facet of this hobby, out of all of this i still (other than in the case of EI dosing) can not find a reason to change the water in the amounts mentioned and at the frequency mentioned, OTHER than no carbon.
So some one 'splain to me WHY the frequent and large water changes in an otherwise healthy tank ! ! !
fish still cause ammonia, and you still get nitrites and nitrates, we just didnt have biological filters then, other than the Marine setup, and by todays standards that was crude. So how was i or anyone else doing all this so easily and yes i ever bred fish, Fancy Tail guppies and Green Swords ( thats why i had so many 10g )when i got out of HS, no computers and internet to look this stuff up on, just trial and error, and the guy at the LFS.
and as a side note I am really stoked to get my new tanks fired up, Stands are done and ready to go, hoods and lights are next up, and already 50% complete, both tanks to be live plant tanks, maybe in a year or so i might convert one to marine, HOWEVER if my history is any indication, there will be a third instead.
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