first cycle

Jan 19, 2008
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#1
Hi,

I have a question about the first cycle when starting a saltwater tank. First off this is a 125 gallon tank with livesand. I'm using a megaflow sump 4 and an Aqua C (in sump) skimmer. The salinity is 1.022 with a constant temp of 80 degrees.

The amonnia started to rise and in using the "instant ocean" test kit the local lfs sold me it seemed to peek at .6 before dropping and I showed the nitrites rise to .2. The ammonia dropped to 0 but the nitrite tests didnt seem to rise much above .2 before dropping to 0. When i tested the nitrate the the water color appears just a bit lighter than the lowest measure.

I'm curious if I should be looking for the nitrates to rise over time and if the nitrites only peeked at about .2-.3 or if the cycle was somehow interrupted. As of right now all tests show 0 (for ammonia and nitrites) and very low nitrates. Also just to add this is day 22 from starting the tank up and diatoms started to show on the live sand floor about a week ago.
 

Jan 19, 2008
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#3
Hi and thank you,

No live rock. I used my lfs owner as a guide and read "saltwater Aquariums for Dummies". Its just the live sand and water (with some decorations). the lfs owner told me to use 6 domino damsels for the cycle. I've read in the last few weeks that this is not a prefered method which i can understand. but by the time I read those articles I was already 2 weeks into the cycle. So Just the 6 damsels with the megaflow and skimmer running. Diatoms started to show up on the live sand about 2 weeks after the initial set up.
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
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NE Indiana
#4
As usual it seems that the lfs steered you towards old methods. You should think about adding live rock at about 1.5 lbs per gallon and as you have already had a small cycle you should try to get fully cured live rock which at this point may cost a fair amount. The other option is to get what you need and cure it outside the tank in a large brute trashcan, plenty of flow and lots of water changes while it cycles through. The live rock and sand will work as your biological filter being populated by the beneficial bacteria needed to break down ammonia to nitrites to nitrogen and out...... high nitrates are usually the result of poor filtration and high nutrients. Not horrible in a fish only tank but not a good thing in a tank that is keeping corals and inverts. i would suggest reading "The New Marine Aquarium" by Micheal Paletta and "The Concientious Marine Aquariust" by Robert Fenner, both of these are pretty much the standard today.

Funny I overheard the lfs here telling someone today that all that he needed was a wet dry filter and that salt could be added to the tank directly by sprinkling it over the surface.......ahhh well.... what can I say. Most lfs are in the business to sell fish and equipment and are stuck in their old ways of doing things......
 

Jan 19, 2008
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#5
I'll check out those books, thanks again. Being that I already broke the bank (well as far as the wife is concerned) on the tank, sump, skimmer, sand, decorations, lights, stand, ..... The live rock may not be an option at the moment now that everythings already set up.

I used to have a saltwater 55 gallon tank years ago but ran two canister filters which had media inside (carbon and such) for filtration. I guess my next question is if I cant do live rock at the moment is there a type of bio bag (carbon or other) I can get for the sump?

this will be for a fish only tank since I (and my wife) have no background on reefs.
 

Jan 19, 2008
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#7
While I'm sure its a good suggestion if you read the post above you I'll be strapped for a bit on getting the live rock. My main question was about the carbon bags or any other you would recomend for the sump. While doing some more reading I think the live rock would be the best way but cant be the only way. I had my old tank set up for over 6 years with the 2 canister (and skimmer) w/o any live rock and only lost 2 fist in that time. Again I'm asking cause the sump style is all new to me. I assume I could add a uv to help keep down algae as well. Just seeking alternate suggestions than the live rock atm.
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
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NE Indiana
#8
well give us some background on the type of skimmer you bought? also is that sump a wet/dry if so it can be used but usually over the long run they do become nitrate traps. As you stated you will only be running a fish only tank and if that is the case then the wet dry will be sufficient. The reason most will tell you to get the live rock etc....is no one in this hobby remains with fish only for long......they usually upgrade and want to get a few small corals etc in short time. That is why we would suggest you go the fish only with live rock option up front....that way if you want to add corals later you can with only such expenditure as a lighting upgrade. So my advice is get the wetdry going the bioballs provide the area for the bacteria to populate and there is usually a spot to add polyfiller pad and carbon.......Dont waste your money on a uv as it will only kill what good beneficial bacteria you have going. You are going to have to be dilligent in water changes and have sufficient flow to reduce any algae you may want to find room in your sump to house some macro algae which will help out compete algae in the display. Good luck, it can be done but it isn't the usual way and save your money, you will be wanting to add fully cured live rock as you can afford it.
 

Jan 19, 2008
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#9
Thank you

The skimmer is a Aqua C Remora Pro Protein Skimmer w/Rio 1400, the sump is a AGA Megaflow 4 Wet/Dry Sump Biological Filter w/2 Rio 1400's, and the tank is a 6ft long 125 gallon w 2 overflows. The live sand is approx 2 inch's deep covering the bottom. I will add the cured live rock overtime if that can be done.
 

Last edited:
Nov 13, 2007
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#10
Hi! I'm still new to sw, but I have one suggestion for you....I know lr can be expensive at the lfs, but I bought mine from a reputable seller on EBAY for $1.98 a pound. Look around. If you do decide to get some, find a seller that ships quickly.....my lr was already cured and everything....good luck...
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
0
NE Indiana
#11
good suggestion Laura.....also you will want to increase the depth of your sandbed. You need to either have a very shallow or a working deep sand bed which needs to be a minimum of 4 - 6 inches deep to work. The inbetween depths can lead to tank crashes later on. The aqua c remora is a great skimmer but it may be on the light side for a 125g tank. Especially one that has no live rock. I would strongly recommend that you upgrade the pump to a minimum of a mag 3 and actually a mag 5 is better yet, though you may need to do a few mods to accomodate the stronger pump. I have the remora c pro urchin in my sump on my 75g with the mag 3 and it works like a charm. Please rethink the other rio pumps as they are notorious for leaking oil and poisoning tanks......just ask on a few forums and you will find out....don't always rely on what the lfs tells you......
 

Jan 19, 2008
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#12
Thank you both for the info I will look into ebay. I only went with the rio's cause at the time I was purchasing everything thats what the lfs recomended with the package. I'll look into other pumps right away. As for the rock just so I'm clear. I can purchase smaller amounts at first and add gradually correct (I dont have to add the whole 1.5 pounds per gallon in a 1 shot deal I can add say 20 pounds at a time)?
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
0
NE Indiana
#13
once your tank is cycled you will need to cure any further additional rock outside of the main display, say in a bucket or something to ensure you don't create mini cycles by adding it to the main tank. All rock even cured will suffer some die off during shipment and this will cause a rise in ammonia. It is just easier to add it all at once in the beginning during your initial cycle....once done and forgotten about...so to speak