My nitrates are high and my ammonia and nitrites are 0 ppm. I tend to over feed and posibly over stock just a bit. My question is...what's the bwest way to get the nitrates down. I was thibnking 25% or 30% water changes daily until I get it stable. Would that be ok to do without putting my tank into a mini cycle?
High Nitrates
- Thread starter sphenta
- Start date
Daily water changes will not throw your tank into a mini-cycle. The beneficial bacteria live on the hard surfaces of your aquarium (gravel, deco, driftwood, filter media, etc.). Most suggest doing water changes when nitrates reach 20ppm, providing that ammonia and nitrite remain zero. If ammonia or nitrite ever rise, do water changes regardless of your nitrate reading, to bring those levels to zero again. Some species are more sensitive to nitrates, and may need changes at a lower level.
Just be sure to rinse any filter media in the change water you are removing if necessary to prevent too much buildup.
Just my 2cents,
OC
Just be sure to rinse any filter media in the change water you are removing if necessary to prevent too much buildup.
Just my 2cents,
OC
forgot to mention snails
Hello all,
Not sure where to post my question, but I have a high nitrate problem in my tank. Have had the tank since November 2011 and am very new to fish keeping. It is a 30L coldwater tank and I initially had four fish in in , two black moors and two fantails. One of each died quite quickly, but the other two have survived,my baby T rex and Rhubarb, despite suffering from white spot and swim bladder disease which we managed to sort out. Ammonia levels were high, but now normal post treatment.
The current problem is high nitrates, have been doing 20 percent water changes every other day and weekly gravel cleans now and only feeding once or twice daily and only a small amount. Rhubarb( the fantail) has black marks on his dorsal and I read this could be due to ammonia burns , but ammonia is normal , so all I can think of is that the nitrate level is causing it.
Please help if you can, I love my little angels and dont want them to suffer .
Many thanks in advance ,
Sam, Jason, T rex and Rhubarb xxx
Ps forgot to say have two apple snails, Rick and Vivian, who I thought were meant to help eat the waste products .
Hello all,
Not sure where to post my question, but I have a high nitrate problem in my tank. Have had the tank since November 2011 and am very new to fish keeping. It is a 30L coldwater tank and I initially had four fish in in , two black moors and two fantails. One of each died quite quickly, but the other two have survived,my baby T rex and Rhubarb, despite suffering from white spot and swim bladder disease which we managed to sort out. Ammonia levels were high, but now normal post treatment.
The current problem is high nitrates, have been doing 20 percent water changes every other day and weekly gravel cleans now and only feeding once or twice daily and only a small amount. Rhubarb( the fantail) has black marks on his dorsal and I read this could be due to ammonia burns , but ammonia is normal , so all I can think of is that the nitrate level is causing it.
Please help if you can, I love my little angels and dont want them to suffer .
Many thanks in advance ,
Sam, Jason, T rex and Rhubarb xxx
Ps forgot to say have two apple snails, Rick and Vivian, who I thought were meant to help eat the waste products .
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A 30L (8 Gallon) tank is WAY to small for a even one gold fish. These need at least a 30G for one!!! These are extremely DIRTY fish and create a lot of waste. You need to get a bigger tank like a 30-50 (about 150L or so) Gallon or donate them and get fish for your size tank. Its not going to be likely to get the water quality straight in such a small tank with this type of fish.
It has certainly been sometime since I posted here. I usualy come to this website when I have question about something, and there is always an answer. I haven't been able to contribute much, mostly because I've been "out of the hobby" for various reasons, but I've always maintained my tanks. I have a 55 and a 125. As of right now there are 2 corys and a tetra in the 55. The 55 is also heavily planted. 8 fiddler crabs, and 10 nerite snails in the 125, and there are about 6 stalks of live plant in there as well. So niether tank is overcrowded to say the least.
The problem is, I have done water change after water change....and still nitrates are 40 to 80+. Can't seem to get them down. It finally occured to me to test my tap water...and behold 40 ppm of Nitrates. Aside from that not being exactly healthy to drink (I'm a bottled water person anyway), it's not real good for the fish. I'm planning on getting back into the hobby, but I'm not buying one fish, until I get the water just right.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Are there reliable water treatments/equipment that can get rid of the Nitrates?
It's probabaly been this way for many years, and I've never noticed a problem, could this be OK and I'm reading too much?
Thanks in advance for the help!!
The problem is, I have done water change after water change....and still nitrates are 40 to 80+. Can't seem to get them down. It finally occured to me to test my tap water...and behold 40 ppm of Nitrates. Aside from that not being exactly healthy to drink (I'm a bottled water person anyway), it's not real good for the fish. I'm planning on getting back into the hobby, but I'm not buying one fish, until I get the water just right.
Does anyone have any suggestions?
Are there reliable water treatments/equipment that can get rid of the Nitrates?
It's probabaly been this way for many years, and I've never noticed a problem, could this be OK and I'm reading too much?
Thanks in advance for the help!!
It is possible, what kind of kit do you have? Did you get it new or did you get it from another fish keeper getting out of the hobby? It should have a code on the package that tells when it was made or when it is 'good through'.
I have never had a test kit long enough for it to expire, but only the manufacturer could say what happens with the results if the kit is too old to use. Test strips can easily get contaminated if not kept sealed and in a cool place. Liquid test kits can give false or inaccurate readings if the instructions are not followed exactly, and if it says to shake them 30 seconds before being used, I'd do it for a solid 3 minutes.
I have never had a test kit long enough for it to expire, but only the manufacturer could say what happens with the results if the kit is too old to use. Test strips can easily get contaminated if not kept sealed and in a cool place. Liquid test kits can give false or inaccurate readings if the instructions are not followed exactly, and if it says to shake them 30 seconds before being used, I'd do it for a solid 3 minutes.
It's my test kit. An API master kit. Doesn't have a date "good thru". Just has a lot number. I do follow directions exactly. The Nitrate test specifically has you shake the #2 bottle for 30 secs before 10 drops then shake tube for 60 and read in 5 mins...as I'm sure you probably know. But I don't exceed the 30 secs like you do. I'll try it that way tomorrow. It was going to pick up a new test kit anyway this weekend to be sure.
I'll report back my findings. Thanks again for your help!!
I'll report back my findings. Thanks again for your help!!
You can call API at (800) 847-0659. They can decode the numbers for you. When I've picked up used supplies at garage sales, etc., I would call them to find out how old the kits are. They also give excellent technical support on the use of their products and may be able to help.
Contact Us - API
Contact Us - API
My Nitrates and nitrites are high but ammonia is 0 so what's the problem? It's a new tank it's 60 litres 2 foot tank I have 2 mollies 6 guppies 2 rainbow fish a Siamese fighter and a rainbow shark. I had numerous problems with my water in my old tank from doing too many water changes and I don't want to go down that route again thanks in advance
Redgirl, first off, WELCOME!
If your water parameter test kit is indicating any nitrites, this indicates you don't have a sufficient nitrogen cycle happening in your tank. Beneficial bacteria instantly convert ammonia to nitrites, then nitrates. Nitrites are very toxic to fish and you should never see any in a stocked tank. With fish in your tank, you need to do water changes until you show 0ppm nitrites. Water changes should not have a negative effect on your tank chemistry. Like OC said above, once you have a proper nitrogen cycle happening in your tank, you can take the water level right down to where the fish can barely swim. Fill it back up with clean, dechlorinated water and you'll have happy fish and a happy tank.
If your water parameter test kit is indicating any nitrites, this indicates you don't have a sufficient nitrogen cycle happening in your tank. Beneficial bacteria instantly convert ammonia to nitrites, then nitrates. Nitrites are very toxic to fish and you should never see any in a stocked tank. With fish in your tank, you need to do water changes until you show 0ppm nitrites. Water changes should not have a negative effect on your tank chemistry. Like OC said above, once you have a proper nitrogen cycle happening in your tank, you can take the water level right down to where the fish can barely swim. Fill it back up with clean, dechlorinated water and you'll have happy fish and a happy tank.
you will not have problems in tank from doing too many water changes. unless you didn't treat the new water correctly, it will do no harm. learn proper water change technique and you can have a healthy tank. you should ideally be changing water once a week on a fish tank.
also when filling a tank back up, especially if you are changing out a lot of water, make sure you fill up gradually. as in, put in a few gallons, wait then put in a few more, wait again. the waits can be anything from 10mins-20mins. you fish will be fine. reason for this is apparently some people on this board are having fish die right after a water change. the reason behind that is still unclear but chemical concentrations in the tank water vs new water and rapid changes were likely to blame. so do everything slow and gradual. don't just dump new water in at once unless it's a very small (10%) water change.
also when filling a tank back up, especially if you are changing out a lot of water, make sure you fill up gradually. as in, put in a few gallons, wait then put in a few more, wait again. the waits can be anything from 10mins-20mins. you fish will be fine. reason for this is apparently some people on this board are having fish die right after a water change. the reason behind that is still unclear but chemical concentrations in the tank water vs new water and rapid changes were likely to blame. so do everything slow and gradual. don't just dump new water in at once unless it's a very small (10%) water change.
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