Okay, this article contradicts itself. Uncurred rock should have no critters or life forms on it, apparently the author does not know the definition of "cured" and "uncured".
The rock itself is not responsible for the cycle, it is the bacteria or algae cultured on the rock that gets the cycle going. Since uncured rock has no bacteria on it, it will not begin to cure unless you add an outside ammonia source. It will not magically cycle a tank in two months in and of itself. You must follow "fishless" cycling proceedures (fishless also means critterless) in order to have a fully estabished biofiltration capacity on your live rock without harming any life forms. Ammonia and nitrite spikes are especially toxic to all SW invertabrates (corals especially).
The only way to get "small" life such as copopods into your tank is to introduce them yourself. Many of these creatures attach themselves to already cured "live" rock (hense the use of the term "live" rock). Uncured rock is steril and carries none of the critters mentioned above, you basically buy it off the shelf instead of out of an already established tank. Cured rock is one that has been sitting in an estabished tank that bacteria and critters have attached itself to.
The article does give good advice as to allowing the creatures to multiply and establish a decent sized population before introduction of fish. Copopods eat small phytoplankton or zooplankton, so you will need to provide a food source for these animals so the population thives instead of dies out. But if the rock is cured, then no real cycle period is needed because the bacteria is already in existance to support the bioload of a moderate amount of fish. Personally I wouldn't over-do it, and would take precautions against ammonia spiking due to not enough "live" rock to support the fish by adding small numbers at a time.
Many people make the mistake you do. Empty, barren tanks are bad bad bad for marine fish, especially smaller species. They need all the rockwork they can get because they are extreamly territorial. Many also do much healthier knowing they have a cranny to get into and be safe if there is a predator or larger fish about (or you scare the crap out of them by putting your mug against the glass<G>). The fish will also graze off the rock, so you do want enough of it so that if they graze a piece of it completely barren, the rest will still be able to support the tank. Marine tanks should never have "a lot of fish" in them unless they are of 100+ gallon size. Even then, if you get especially large fish, that cuts down significantly on the amount of fish you can have. You'll be surpised, smaller species can really make themselves at home, and you can add more fish than you think in a tank with well thought out rockwork.
Mollies (particularly black ones) make the point of a "fishless" cycle moot. Now you must follow all proceedure for making sure your fish don't suffer from ammonia/nitrite spikes, and that you have a place for them once you feel your cycle is complete. "Fish-in" cycles, even with using mollies, take much longer than "fishless" cycles. The same principles that apply to freshwater "fish-in" cycles apply to SW "fish-in" cycles, except that ammonia and nitrites are 10x more toxic to fish in a SW tank than a FW tank. So if you have an out of control ammonia spike during a "fish-in" cycle, you are pretty much screwed because all your fish will be dead and you might as well start over from scratch.
If you are using "live" rock, why not just purchase a few small damsels instead of mollies? That is the benefit of "live" rock, getting the fish you really want right from the start without having to panic over ammonia/nitrite spikes because the rock already carries the necessary bacteria.
~~Colesea