i notice today that my otto, had little tiny small white dots on his fins,one on his body, thier very very tiny, im not sure if it is, so i put some ich meds in(wardley essentials ich away) all i had. turned my water blue, and i put the heat up...you think the heat will effect my other fish??.. i have white cloud minnows (there " cold water fish) put they seem fine in my 75F tank...also on that note my otto's dont eat the agle wafs
I think my otto got ich
- Thread starter meagheavz
- Start date
Sounds like ich to me (does it look like salt sprinkled on the fish?).
I have no experience with that particular med (I generally use salt to treat ich), but Wardleys makes good stuff. Follow the dosing suggestions, make sure you've taken and carbon out of your filter, and keep the tank medicated for at least a week after the symptoms disappear.
~JW
I have no experience with that particular med (I generally use salt to treat ich), but Wardleys makes good stuff. Follow the dosing suggestions, make sure you've taken and carbon out of your filter, and keep the tank medicated for at least a week after the symptoms disappear.
~JW
Your other fish will handle the temperature increase without a problem.
~JW
P.S. If you're going to expect other people to take the time to read and reply to your posts, it's courteous to at least give your posts a quick proof-read to take care of any glaring typos. It would make your posting much more understandable...
~JW
P.S. If you're going to expect other people to take the time to read and reply to your posts, it's courteous to at least give your posts a quick proof-read to take care of any glaring typos. It would make your posting much more understandable...
so everything is going wrong with my tank...i woke up today and a harlequin was dead and then about 15mins later a male cherry barb died(niether had ich/ick) the fish with ich seem ok. my ammo went up so i changed the ammo rocks and the filter to my whisper cuz it like fell apart. i did a water change maybe around 40%. my ph is always around 7.6... my nitrites was .50 or 1.. nitrates was 10 and ammo was .50 or 1..
Oh dear...
I don't have time to explain why (I'll see if I can get back on later to go into some more detail if someone else hasn't yet), but changing your filter was a bad idea.
The "ammo rocks" aren't really going to do a whole lot for you. They'll help a little, but it's sort of like trying to soak up a 5 gallon bucket full of water with a sponge...
You need to keep doing water changes until your ammonia and nitrite levels are below 1. Keep up those water changes as necessary until the ammonia and nitrite hit 0 and stay there (this could be a couple weeks). Be sure to add meds to replace the water you're taking out (if you take out 2 gallons of water, add 2 gallon's worth of meds to the tank after the water change).
Sorry if you've posted this elsewhere, but I can't find it with a quick search. How big is the tank, what's in it, and how long has it been setup?
~JW
I don't have time to explain why (I'll see if I can get back on later to go into some more detail if someone else hasn't yet), but changing your filter was a bad idea.
The "ammo rocks" aren't really going to do a whole lot for you. They'll help a little, but it's sort of like trying to soak up a 5 gallon bucket full of water with a sponge...
You need to keep doing water changes until your ammonia and nitrite levels are below 1. Keep up those water changes as necessary until the ammonia and nitrite hit 0 and stay there (this could be a couple weeks). Be sure to add meds to replace the water you're taking out (if you take out 2 gallons of water, add 2 gallon's worth of meds to the tank after the water change).
Sorry if you've posted this elsewhere, but I can't find it with a quick search. How big is the tank, what's in it, and how long has it been setup?
~JW
Oh boy. Ok, you should NOT be changing your filter. You probably just destroyed any cycle that was going on in your tank. To kill the ick, your water temp should be around 84-86. I would not use meds, they can often kill off weaker fish. If you just use heat, you do not need to remove the carbon.
I would attribute your fish deaths to a combination of ick and poor water quality. Take a sample of your water to the fish store and have them check the parameters. Write them down exactly, and post them up here.
By the way, you should NOT have any otos in that tank if you just set it up. They will have no food source as you have no algae yet. Go to the fish store and get some algae wafers to feed them, otherwise they will starve to death.
I also suggest you take the time to read through my cycling article completely. Click on the link in my signature.
I would attribute your fish deaths to a combination of ick and poor water quality. Take a sample of your water to the fish store and have them check the parameters. Write them down exactly, and post them up here.
By the way, you should NOT have any otos in that tank if you just set it up. They will have no food source as you have no algae yet. Go to the fish store and get some algae wafers to feed them, otherwise they will starve to death.
I also suggest you take the time to read through my cycling article completely. Click on the link in my signature.
i have 2 filters a whisper witch fell apart and aquaclear, so i didnt totaly mess up my cycle... i have a 20G H tank set up since the aug 9th, i hav cherry barbs, zebra danio, pearl danio,white cloud minnow, harlequin, otto..how often do i need to do a water change?? wut do u mean by meds, i mean i hav alot of crap, water con, ph sutff and then meds for sick fish,.. my otto dont eat the waffs or i havent seen them eat them..i also hav ammo lock
Ok, the only thing you need to be putting in the water is the water conditioner. PH stuff, meds, and ammo lock are not necessary and will mess with your cycle. As I'm sure you've realized by now, you've added way too many fish way too soon. Your options are:
1. Take back all but the danios and continue doing a fish-in cycle with just those. (They are the hardiest fish you have.) All while doing daily water changes and monitoring the ammonia levels.
2. Take ALL the fish back, starting over and doing a fishless cycle with ammonia. (See link in my signature for complete fishless cycling instructions).
3. Keep all your fish, possibly killing some of them, and trying to continue managing. Since you are still asking questions that are answered on my page, I'm going to assume you haven't read it. Please take the time to do so, it will explain a lot to you. You do need to be doing daily water changes of about 25%, even more if the ammonia levels get too high. If you do have ich in the tank, you should not move the fish around. The whole tank is already infected. You should slowly raise the tank temperature to 84-86 and leave it there for around 2 weeks, all while doing water changes and treating the water you add to the tank BEFORE you add it. I would not mess around with medications as they will probably mess with your cycle. Once again, all this water change and fish cycling information is clearly explained on my page.
1. Take back all but the danios and continue doing a fish-in cycle with just those. (They are the hardiest fish you have.) All while doing daily water changes and monitoring the ammonia levels.
2. Take ALL the fish back, starting over and doing a fishless cycle with ammonia. (See link in my signature for complete fishless cycling instructions).
3. Keep all your fish, possibly killing some of them, and trying to continue managing. Since you are still asking questions that are answered on my page, I'm going to assume you haven't read it. Please take the time to do so, it will explain a lot to you. You do need to be doing daily water changes of about 25%, even more if the ammonia levels get too high. If you do have ich in the tank, you should not move the fish around. The whole tank is already infected. You should slowly raise the tank temperature to 84-86 and leave it there for around 2 weeks, all while doing water changes and treating the water you add to the tank BEFORE you add it. I would not mess around with medications as they will probably mess with your cycle. Once again, all this water change and fish cycling information is clearly explained on my page.
You need to do as many water changes as necessary to get that ammonia level down. You have to do that even if you don't want to use the bio spira because high ammonia levels will kill your fish very quickly.
Did the fish store give you any numbers on your ammonia and nitrite levels? If not, take a piece of paper with you next time and ask for the numbers.
Did the fish store give you any numbers on your ammonia and nitrite levels? If not, take a piece of paper with you next time and ask for the numbers.