Ich Treatment

Rea

New Fish
Mar 31, 2009
2
0
0
Bucks(UK)
#1
I have ich on my guppies *SICK* so I got Esha Exit and started as on instruction leaflet. It says that you can add 4th and 5th day treatment with stated amount of drops but I read somewhere on aquatics forum that you can treat the fish even longer if spots on fish persist.(10-14days?)...what is the dosage if you want to extend treatment...for more than 5 days as it is not on a leaflet?

Is it normal when guppies have ich to have 'black' eyes?
Also I read somewhere to leave the light in the tank off ? Does it have any influence on treatment?
 

MissFishy

Superstar Fish
Aug 10, 2006
2,237
5
0
Michigan
#2
Welcome Rea! I think you will find here that most of us use and suggest using only the "heat" method of ich treatment instead of using meds that can mess with your tank. I have instructions on ich treatment linked below using the heat method alone. The black eyes are likely a trick of the light.
 

Rea

New Fish
Mar 31, 2009
2
0
0
Bucks(UK)
#3
Thank you! They have sometimes eyes almost black and sometimes normal... Do you mean heat in combination with salt? I have plants in the aquarium ... They have now 83F
 

Whiskers

Large Fish
Feb 29, 2008
425
1
18
central Michigan USA
#4
i think most just try turning up the heat in the tank. everyone tries something different but the one thing i think most all agree on is the temp. i would try what is in missfishys link and see how it goes. welcome to the tank.
 

d3sc3n7

Superstar Fish
Nov 21, 2007
1,455
0
0
44
Ft. Campbell, Ky
www.d3sc3n7.com
#5
Well my personal treatment for ich is coppersafe. However, I'd not suggest using it with a planted tank. It may or may not harm them, I've not used it on a planted tank.

So...I agree with the others on the heat method. Follow the links MissFishy likes to plug all the time. :D
 

May 1, 2008
34
0
0
#6
I'm on day 6 of the heat treatment and have lost a lot of fish. It is really disheartening. Both clown loaches, my favorite fish, died as well as all the african dwarf frogs and several tetras. I hope I don't lose anything else. After two weeks do I lower the temp and then watch? When do I replace fish? I don't want to go through this again... :-(
 

d3sc3n7

Superstar Fish
Nov 21, 2007
1,455
0
0
44
Ft. Campbell, Ky
www.d3sc3n7.com
#7
Rookie...do you have a hospital tank? That is the best way to keep from getting disease in your main tank. Keep new fish in there for a few weeks before adding them to the main one. We've all been through ICH, usually after the 1st time...you find ways of avoiding doing it again.
 

Ammy

Small Fish
Apr 3, 2009
26
0
0
#9
Aw, rookie, I'm sorry to hear about your fish. The loss, I believe, is probably directly related to the medication. Loaches and other scaleless fish are extremely sensitive to medications. I believe the only really safe way to treat ich is with heat or a combination of heat and salt. I personally only used salt when my goldfish had it, but that is because he is a cold water fish. The salt WILL work without heat, and I can say that with experience, but it will take a little longer because the life cycle of the ich will be slower. I've had success with doing one tablespoon of aquarium or sea salt (NO iodized table salt) per five gallons of water. Salt will also be easy on your plants, whereas many ich medications aren't good for them.

Rea, I have read about turning off the lights in the tank and putting a towel over it to cause a blackout, but the only evidence of this working was that "it would make it harder for the ich to find the fish in the dark" so I do not think it is worth it, especially if you have plants.

Also, Rookie, you can certainly repair your ten. Go to your local fish store and ask if they have tubes of silicone aquarium sealant. It is the rubbery clear sealant that you find on the joints of tanks. It is super easy to use. I would suggest getting hard, stiff plexiglass and cutting it into about the shape of the crack in your tank, but obviously make it bigger than the crack itself, by about two or three inches, to be safe. Then, remember how in elementary school, when told to glue two pieces of paper together, we would draw all kinds of squiggles and designs on the back in glue, instead of just putting a line of glue around the edges? That is what you want to do on one side of the plexiglass. That, or just make rings of silicone on the plexiglass, that way if water gets through one ring of silicone, it might not get through all the others and cause a leak. Then put the plexiglass, silicone side down, over the crack and put something slightly heavy on top to smush it all down. Give it about 24 hours to dry and then put some water in the tank to test for leaks. A leak might not leak right away, so let it sit for a few hours. If there is no leak, I would empty the water and give it another day or so to cure completely, just to be safe. This is exactly how I repaired my tank when it was cracked. Good luck!
 

brian1973

Superstar Fish
Jan 20, 2008
2,001
3
38
Corpus Christi, Texas
#10
Rea, I have read about turning off the lights in the tank and putting a towel over it to cause a blackout, but the only evidence of this working was that "it would make it harder for the ich to find the fish in the dark" so I do not think it is worth it, especially if you have plants.
Can you provide a link to that? Would be interested in reading this method as I have never heard it used for ICH, I have heard it used for algea.

Just my opinion but the cost of a new 10G is roughly $10 at petsmart or walmart, the cost of the silicone and plexiglass is going to be close to the cost of a new 10G so my recommendation is just buy a new one. If your heart is set on repairing it then purchase GE Silicone 1 this is cheaper than the aquarium silicone and you get more for you money, then follow the instructions above but I would let it cure for 24 to 48hrs then fill it and watch it over the course of a couple days in a safe place so if it leaks it doesnt ruin anything. The problem with adding water and checking it, then emptying it to let it cure more is if water gets between the silcone and surface it will not seal, so it needs to be cured completely before adding water. In my personal experience plexiglass and silicone dont seem to adhere properly.
 

nanu156

Large Fish
Mar 8, 2010
745
0
0
Detroit, Mi
#12
SPAM!!!! SPAM!! SPAM!!! can't report to moderator because reporting link is dead for some reason.

although this is something that newbie may find useful so i will post.

Turning the lights off is basically to make your fish less stressed. It's like laying in a dark room when you don't feel good, even if you are not asleep you are more or less resting.

When there is activity there is stress for fish, stress can trigger ich which incidentally is present in EVERY tank, just takes some stress to make the fish get sick. Sorta like there is bacteria on EVERYTHING but you only get sick from it when you are run down.
 

tonymac

Small Fish
Nov 18, 2009
22
0
0
#14
The reason for turning out the light and covering the tank to prevent ambient light from entering is the Ich virus detaches and looks for new hosts in the dark. The heat speeds up their life cycle and thus gets rid of it faster. The cover/heat method works in under 72 hours, and does less harm to plants than the fish meds. Ive never heard of this method lasting over 72 hours.
The reason your loach and frogs died is probably from the meds. Like Catfish, they dont have scales. The ich meds that are safe for fish with scales are sometimes lethal for scaleless fish and frogs