if you were me... would you
- Thread starter mandakay
- Start date
I agree with Shaunna...I'm not quite sure what you're asking here either.
How long has the tank had water in it? Are those test results based on the water that has been sitting in a fishless tank?
If so, then nothing is likely to change until you add something in to cycle it. If you want to do that with fish in there, then that's fine. However, you will need to keep a close eye on the water quality---DEFINITELY test ammonia (I didn't see an ammonia reading in your last post)---and perform regular water changes to keep the spikes in ammonia and nitrite at bay throughout the cycling process.
I cycled my 3 gallon tank with a blue crayfish in it. In fact, the cycling process still isn't quite complete, and I've nonetheless gone and added 5 cherry barbs to the tank. Sure, it's overstocked, but I know what I'm doing.
My ammonia is typically around 1.0-1.5 PPM every other day when I test and perform a water change (nitrite at about 0.25-0.5 PPM; nitrate at 10 PPM).
Everything in the tank is doing just fine.
Well, hopefully I've provided you with some insights that will prove helpful. Tell us more, and I know you'll get more help here!
Big Vine
How long has the tank had water in it? Are those test results based on the water that has been sitting in a fishless tank?
If so, then nothing is likely to change until you add something in to cycle it. If you want to do that with fish in there, then that's fine. However, you will need to keep a close eye on the water quality---DEFINITELY test ammonia (I didn't see an ammonia reading in your last post)---and perform regular water changes to keep the spikes in ammonia and nitrite at bay throughout the cycling process.
I cycled my 3 gallon tank with a blue crayfish in it. In fact, the cycling process still isn't quite complete, and I've nonetheless gone and added 5 cherry barbs to the tank. Sure, it's overstocked, but I know what I'm doing.
My ammonia is typically around 1.0-1.5 PPM every other day when I test and perform a water change (nitrite at about 0.25-0.5 PPM; nitrate at 10 PPM).
Everything in the tank is doing just fine.
Well, hopefully I've provided you with some insights that will prove helpful. Tell us more, and I know you'll get more help here!
Big Vine
I'd say probably not. Bettas dont exactly create a lot of waste, so I guess it depends on the snail (I'm no expert on those, but I've heard that apple snails can be very messy). I have a 3g with a betta that I did not fishless cycle. You just need to keep a close eye on the water parameters, and do regular (weekly) water changes. I actually never had a noticeable ammonia or nitrite spike.
Do you have any other tanks? If so, you could squeeze out some of the gunk from that tank's filter onto the new tank's filterpad, and then you'd definately be all set.
Do you have any other tanks? If so, you could squeeze out some of the gunk from that tank's filter onto the new tank's filterpad, and then you'd definately be all set.
Either way the tank will cycle. I think the most important thing is that if you decide not to fishless cycle the tank you need to keep a very close eye on the ammonia and nitrite readings and do a water change mid week if they start to rise, not just once a week. I'd also hold off on getting the snail if you haven't already...they can be pretty sensitive to those higher levels of ammonia/nitrite. If you have another tank that is already established I'd suggest doing like Shaunna described and seed the new tank with bacteria from the existing tank to help speed the cycle up.
i was wanting to know if i should
cycle my tank that i am wanting to put a betta and snail in.
and if they will cycle it for me.
my test results ARE based on a tank with no fish in it.
i *think* i am getting fish tomrrow so i will be doing a fish in cycle.
how often should i test my ammonia and nitrates.
are these the only test kits i need to by?
if the ammonia is too high how much water do i need to change, and do i also vacum the gravle when i water change?
cycle my tank that i am wanting to put a betta and snail in.
and if they will cycle it for me.
my test results ARE based on a tank with no fish in it.
i *think* i am getting fish tomrrow so i will be doing a fish in cycle.
how often should i test my ammonia and nitrates.
are these the only test kits i need to by?
if the ammonia is too high how much water do i need to change, and do i also vacum the gravle when i water change?
Last edited:
Test ammonia every other day until your tank is completely cycled (and the ammonia and nitrite levels drop to zero). After that, test once a week for the time being.
You definitely want to have an ammonia testing kit AND a nitrite testing kit. Nitrates are important too, however these won't show up a whole lot until near the end of the cycling process. I wouldn't plan on testing nitrate levels until the end of your cycling process and thereafter.
Think of it this way---while your tank is cycling, ammonia and nitrites are the two prime indicators of your water quality. After the cycling process (assuming that you have a well-maintained tank that is not heavily over-stocked), the nitrate levels will be the prime indicator of your water quality.
Nitrates should remain below 40 PPM, although below 20 PPM is more ideal, which is what you should be aiming for...again, this is for AFTER the cycling process.
That's why I'd just stick with ammonia and nitrites for now.
When you test ammonia/nitrites every second day, you are likely to find that you will need to perform a water change on those days---at least for the first few weeks...until the levels drop to zero.
Change about 20% of the water. DO NOT vaccuum the gravel until about at least 2 weeks after your tank has been completely cycled...You need for the gravel to stay undisturbed so that beneficial bacteria can develop and colonize there (these are the bacteria responsible for cycling your tank, so we don't want to get rid of them!).
Big Vine
You definitely want to have an ammonia testing kit AND a nitrite testing kit. Nitrates are important too, however these won't show up a whole lot until near the end of the cycling process. I wouldn't plan on testing nitrate levels until the end of your cycling process and thereafter.
Think of it this way---while your tank is cycling, ammonia and nitrites are the two prime indicators of your water quality. After the cycling process (assuming that you have a well-maintained tank that is not heavily over-stocked), the nitrate levels will be the prime indicator of your water quality.
Nitrates should remain below 40 PPM, although below 20 PPM is more ideal, which is what you should be aiming for...again, this is for AFTER the cycling process.
That's why I'd just stick with ammonia and nitrites for now.
When you test ammonia/nitrites every second day, you are likely to find that you will need to perform a water change on those days---at least for the first few weeks...until the levels drop to zero.
Change about 20% of the water. DO NOT vaccuum the gravel until about at least 2 weeks after your tank has been completely cycled...You need for the gravel to stay undisturbed so that beneficial bacteria can develop and colonize there (these are the bacteria responsible for cycling your tank, so we don't want to get rid of them!).
Big Vine