Leaking 55G tank, HELP!!!

Bruckm

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Mar 31, 2004
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#1
OK, I've been getting everything ready to condense all of my little tanks into one 55G tank. We're getting ready to leave for a little vacation and I wanted it set up before we left to start the cycling process. Some of my supplies came in later than I expected (I won't mention from whom I ordered them...hint). One of the bags of substrate (eco-complete) was leaking, so I figured I needed to get it in before we left even though my timeline had been messed up. I got everything set up. Substrate's in, water's in, filter is up and running. CF lightstrip is working. Looking good! I'd test driven the tank and filter for a couple of weeks in the garage to make sure there were no leaks while I was waiting on all of my supplies to arrive. I left it running overnight.

This morning my wife wakes up and goes into the room with the aquarium. I hear, "Oh NO!" It's been leaking all night. Luckily the leak is a very slow drip, but there is a puddle on the floor. Now when I test drove it in the garage there had been absolutely NO leaks, nuttin'. I drain most of the water out and discover that the leak is on the bottom at one end.

What do I do? What are my options? I checked to see if the tank is level and it is, kinda. The bubble in the level is within the marks but it is on one side of the center area. BTW with only about 15 gallons in it the leak stopped. So the weight is causing it to leak. Imbalance right, even if it is slight?

Also, right as we were leaving I noticed that my Penguin 125 had just stopped on my 20G. Would not start back up. Nothin. No sound of any kind. 5 minutes earlier it had been working. Is 3 months about the life expectancy for those?
 

Apr 18, 2004
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#2
IMO,

id tear the whole tank down to redo the entire seal to ensure yourself that the seals are good. could have been a bad bond between the glass, or the seal could be old. i have had them get kind of brittle bt still plyable. then it leaks and i redo the whole tank. i have only done this to 5,10,20, and a 29 gal i dont know how long it will take or how much silicone it will take. but you have a good 2 to 2 1/2 days work to clean and prep the surface, apply the silicone and alow it to dry.

had the same problem with my 29 gal . it filled fine and did not leak but i think i had to have put to much stress on one of the sides and the seal gave when adding some water during regular weekly WC. i was not adding water slowly just dump in whats needed and be down with it. i learned and now i use a hose to syfen the new water in to the tank.
 

Avalon

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Oct 22, 2002
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#3
Sorry to tell you this, but you're going to have to take everything out of the 55 to fix that leak. You will need to reseal the entire joint. Take a razor blade and remove the silicon from the entire edge, but be extremely careful with the corners--in fact, I would stay about a half inch from the corners unless they are leaking, then you have 2 seals to replace. Make sure it's nice and clean then re-silicon it with the aquarium safe silicon (All-Glass makes some, available at Wal-Mart or your LFS). Fill the gaps using your finger to push and smooth it into the crack where the two glass panes come together. Then make sure there is enough silicon to provide at least .25 inch seal extending from the edge/corner.

If you do not remove the silicon, you run the risk of air bubbles or water unsealing the rest of the silicon due to the pressure of the water if it happens to get back in that crack. Do not just patch it up!

Of course, don't let the silicon dry on your fingers, and be careful with that razor blade!

As for the filter, you might dissasemble the motor assembly (NOT the motor itself) and see if there is something that has jammed the propeller. I've had snails get in mine before and lock it up. In most cases, those filters will operate for a very long time--they aren't likely to just fail on their own. But of course, stuff happens ;)
 

ecotank

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Aug 30, 2003
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#5
Patching over the original silicone will invite a disaster that you certainly don't want! It may seal fine for a while, but will eventually give out (and probably in a much grander fashion than your current drip leak).

Removing the silicone with a blade and redoing it isn't very hard, just take your time and make sure all the old silicone is removed and the glass is clean and dry when you put new silicone on. It's really not that hard.
 

Bruckm

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Mar 31, 2004
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#6
Which of the silicones to buy? When I looked the other day at Home Depot, there were many choices. There was 1 little tube for aquariums specifically, but I'd prefer the tube that fits a caulking gun. Was it the silicone I or II? Or was it something else?

Thanks
 

Apr 18, 2004
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#7
some one correct me if i am wrong,

but the stuff in the little tube is the same as anything that is 100% silicone but more exspensive because its for aquariums. you have to make sure there are no additives to it for mildew or mold resistant. i know this much but still i buy the little tubes for what i need.
 

Bruckm

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Mar 31, 2004
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#8
Well, I bought the GE Silicone II for windows and doors. 100% silicone,no mention of "Do NOT use on aquariums." I read previous posts here about the subject. Since it is for doors and windows, no mention of 'mildew resistant.' The kitchen and bath Silicone II had the mildew resistant tag. So, this looks like it will work just fine.
 

Jul 11, 2004
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#9
Hi, im a noobie here. I am having the same problem and found this thread. I bought what Bruckm bought, but mine is a GE Silicon I for windows and door. The odor is real bad, (smells from the inside of tank). How long will i have to wait untill it's safe to put my fish back in?
 

Bruckm

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Mar 31, 2004
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#12
Well.................................................I put water in it and let if run for a week. There were no leaks, but I've since discovered (upon further inspection) that there WAS a center brace on that tank but has been cut out. However, the freind from whom I got it never had any problems with it. It'd been in his office running for several years nary a leak. I guess it is a disaster just waiting to happen. Is there any way to put the center brace genie back in the bottle? The glass on it is thicker than on the new 55G. (1/2" to 1/4")

The 55G I am now using is a replacement purchased by the company whose stand was faulty. They said it happens a few times a year. Apparently a few bad apples get loose to the public and they have to replace the tank due to leaks caused by the stand's imperfections. I think Lotus (maybe Leo) has the same stand and it works great for her. So I think I just got the short straw on that one.
 

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1979camaro

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Oct 22, 2002
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#13
as far as replacing the center brace, i really dont know...i would imagine it would need to be installed while empty for sure...you might be able to get the entire upper rim of the tank (the plasticy <-not a word} part)...perhaps if you used plastic and some sort of cement which creates a chemical bond between the two pieces of plastic (the one you are attaching and the one that is left...or, how about a sort of bridge which slips over the outside edges of the tank? i dont know honestly...just some ideas i thought of...if there was a canopy which fit over the outside edges (all four, not just the front and sides) it would be doing essentially the same job...i dont really know, clearly
 

DannyJ88

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Jul 12, 2004
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#15
ON my 125 tank i had o replace 2 center braces and i had to reseal it. I used the same sealant you used. The all purpose silicone that dind't say anything about not using with aquariums and for the center brace i used a piece of wood and 2 bolts. I just drilled a hole in the plastic and then in the wood and bolted it down. It worked just fine. I was going to have someon weld me a bracket i could just slide on but i got tired of waiting.