Alright, so lets say I "hypothetically" were to start a 125g reef tank... That would mean lighting is a serious concern. I may or may not purchase Taotronic LED 120v 55x3w. My question is for all you reefers out there. Would two of those units be sufficient for coral, possibly sps coral down the road, or would three be preferred?
LED Saltwater Question
- Thread starter FishDad
- Start date
most LED lights are not adequate for SW. you will need to buy a fixture of LEDs (or make you own, rapid LED's website is great for that) that is specifically advertised
by the way metal halides are probably the best. i always got the best colors under MH lighting.
do some reading on nano reef forums. see what other people are using to light their 125gal reef tanks.
also 125gals is a huge investment in money and time if you want to run a reef.
by the way metal halides are probably the best. i always got the best colors under MH lighting.
do some reading on nano reef forums. see what other people are using to light their 125gal reef tanks.
also 125gals is a huge investment in money and time if you want to run a reef.
Metal Halides? Really? I was under the impression that they are on there way out of the hobby. My initial hesitation on them is having to purchase a chiller due to the heat. Now with MH's do you still get the same color as a blue T5 or do you use them in combination?
I think I'll need to do more research on specific LEDs. My local salt water store specializes in sps corals and uses exclusively LEDs. But they are very expensive brands.
I think I'll need to do more research on specific LEDs. My local salt water store specializes in sps corals and uses exclusively LEDs. But they are very expensive brands.
LEDs are very expensive. I usually use Cree LEDs and build my own DIY fixtures, but these are on a very small scale and only use 6 LEDs per fixture (they are for small pico reef tanks).
For MH you'd get a bulb that is rated at certain Kelvins, such a 20,000K bulbs for example. you will not have to buy a white and blue bulb separately.
ask your local fish store about what they use and how many.
For MH you'd get a bulb that is rated at certain Kelvins, such a 20,000K bulbs for example. you will not have to buy a white and blue bulb separately.
ask your local fish store about what they use and how many.
i've used 10K up to 20K MH bulbs. 20K are really blue. makes all your corals look great. but for a deeper tank (mine was 30" deep), it didn't penetrate down to the sandbed enough. i've used 10K's also where they are more white. but supposedly better for coral growth. or you can in between..i think what is it now? 14K bulbs. like newman said..you don't mix mh bulbs for colors like you would with T5's.
and ya..i had to run a chiller with my MH. or leave the canopy open most of the time. but how about T5 bulbs instead.
and ya..i had to run a chiller with my MH. or leave the canopy open most of the time. but how about T5 bulbs instead.
Yeah it sounds like T5 is the way to go to avoid using a chiller. My tank depth is around 22 inches, and I've read that 20,000k is best you can get for coral growth if it can hit the bottom. So for a six foot wide tank how many T5's at 20,000K would you guys recommend? While I likely won't be growing sps's right away, I'd like to have the option in the near future.
And yes freshy, I think I might be going to that side. "Give in too your anger!"
And yes freshy, I think I might be going to that side. "Give in too your anger!"
yea you should start with soft corals then work up to LPS and finally if all those do well then easy SPS corals and finally a clam or two.
be aware that T5s can still put off a bit of heat. not as much as MH of course. LEDs put off their heat on the opposite side of the lamp. so most heat is directed upwards instead of down toward the water.
no idea on how much T5 you will need sorry.
I think lighting is going to be one of the most expensive things to buy for any reef tank. prepare your wallet for a shakedown.
be aware that T5s can still put off a bit of heat. not as much as MH of course. LEDs put off their heat on the opposite side of the lamp. so most heat is directed upwards instead of down toward the water.
no idea on how much T5 you will need sorry.
I think lighting is going to be one of the most expensive things to buy for any reef tank. prepare your wallet for a shakedown.
Alright, I purchased a light from aquatrader. 72" comes with 4 T5HO bulbs, 2 10,000k bulbs and 2 actinic blue and 5 moonlight LED's. Digital timer and cooling fans. $180. Got good reviews for performance but not so good on craftsmanship. I can live with that for the price.
I have another question... (by the way, thanks Arcab and Newman, you guys have been great.)
For a 125g tank and a 55 sump, is their a preferred gph for a sump pump? I haven't been able to pin that down.
I have another question... (by the way, thanks Arcab and Newman, you guys have been great.)
For a 125g tank and a 55 sump, is their a preferred gph for a sump pump? I haven't been able to pin that down.
Depends on how much flow you need. Since there is (presumably) going to be more flow in the tank from powerheads, the flow through the sump can be relatively slow. I've heard 4-10x the tank volume per hour. I've also heard to match it to roughly what GPH your skimmer is rated at, as that would allow max skimming.
Keep in mind that the pump is going to take head loss from each foot of height it has to push up, as well as strong angles in the plumbing. I have a Sicce synchra pump which is awesome and quiet, and has the added benefit of being adjustable so I don't have to have any valves on my plumbing. Simple is good for me.
Keep in mind that the pump is going to take head loss from each foot of height it has to push up, as well as strong angles in the plumbing. I have a Sicce synchra pump which is awesome and quiet, and has the added benefit of being adjustable so I don't have to have any valves on my plumbing. Simple is good for me.
I don't know for sure, I presumed that MH's are very direct and act almost like heat lamps. Don't know much about it though. I was planning on shelving the versa top lids too, as seems to be preferred with reef tanks. I would imagine that would help with heat.
Caps I will have roughly 3000gph circulation w/o the sump pump to start with. It seems to grow sps' I will need quite a bit more. Since I will be using an overflow box I guess I need to match the gph with what the box can handle while trying to accommodate the skimmer at the same time. Which leads me to another question... CPR box or standard. Am I correct in thinking that you have less chance of syphon breaking with a CPR?
Caps I will have roughly 3000gph circulation w/o the sump pump to start with. It seems to grow sps' I will need quite a bit more. Since I will be using an overflow box I guess I need to match the gph with what the box can handle while trying to accommodate the skimmer at the same time. Which leads me to another question... CPR box or standard. Am I correct in thinking that you have less chance of syphon breaking with a CPR?
Using an HOB overflow box, match the sump flow to that. The glass-holes overflows you can make as slow as you want, not sure how that works with an HOB box siphoning.
My understanding: The skimmer gph is just for max efficiency if you can get that exact amount through the sump. But really, it just means that if water is passing through the sump more slowly than it is being skimmed, the skimmer is slightly less efficient (because some water is getting "skimmed twice" in the sump before being returned). If the flow rate is faster than the skimmer is rated, some water is going through the sump without being skimmed. I don't think either is a particular big flaw. My return pump is adjusted to where the water flow seems quietest. I really don't know the specific gph it is at, even roughly.
My understanding: The skimmer gph is just for max efficiency if you can get that exact amount through the sump. But really, it just means that if water is passing through the sump more slowly than it is being skimmed, the skimmer is slightly less efficient (because some water is getting "skimmed twice" in the sump before being returned). If the flow rate is faster than the skimmer is rated, some water is going through the sump without being skimmed. I don't think either is a particular big flaw. My return pump is adjusted to where the water flow seems quietest. I really don't know the specific gph it is at, even roughly.