Lighting recommendations for planted 20-55 gallon tank

Plantasia

Small Fish
Jan 4, 2006
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#1
I’m new to the board but have had some experience with 10-gallon planted freshwater tanks. I’m currently planning to step it up to a 20-55 gallon (depending on my budget) planted tank with angelfish and tetras. Does anyone have suggestions for setting up an Amano-like fluorescent lighting system? I know I will probably have to go custom since I never see anything remotely like what I want at the retail level. I would prefer flourescent also since they're cheaper than halide lamps.

Here is what I’m looking at as far as desired plants:

Riccia (as foreground on rocks/driftwood)
Red-stem plants
Java fern, moss (to be grown on driftwood)
Maybe some glosso patches here and there
Echinodorus tenellus
Dwarf hairgrass
Various tall background plants (haven’t decided specifically which yet)

Also, any C02 system recommendations (fairly cheap) would be great. Thanks!!

One last question unrelated to the above – I have a 5-gallon cubic planted tank with tetras that seems to be overrun with snails. I change the water/filter every month—should I be doing it more often? Also, what fish would be best for eating snails in such a small tank?
Thanks again:)
 

discus4everGrl

Superstar Fish
May 24, 2005
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Chesapeake, Va
#3
Well riccia, hairgrass, glosso and red colored plants are considered more demanding than most plants so watts per gallon will be higher than for the average level light plants. Because the first three are low lying plants it typically takes much more light to reach them. From my own experience, it takes a considerable amount of light for these foreground plants to grow well. I would say closer to 5 watts per gallon of tank water, which is by most retail standards alot of light. Of course you must balance the amount of light with CO2 and fertilization products otherwise the plants needs will not be met.

As for the the 5 gallon, if you don't have any fish in there, clown loaches are a good eater of common pond snails. However, they can be tricky and should be quarantined for ick as they seem to carry it often. I would change the water more often than once a month, but that depends on the tanks purpose and if there are fish in it. You most likely brought the snails in on the plants you bought. You can always rinse your plants in a 1 part bleach, 20 part water solution before adding them to your tank to kill any snail eggs. If you see the snails on the glass do pick them out and toss them.
 

Plantasia

Small Fish
Jan 4, 2006
15
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#4
Thanks for the tips! I know—all the plants I want are totally high maintenance, but after a few years now of strictly ferns and cryptos I’m ready to go all out with a real showpiece tank, so I know it’ll be pretty expensive to set it up—especially the lighting and C02. I’ve only done DIY type CO2 systems in the 10 gallon tanks I’ve had in the past but they didn’t seem to work very well. As far as the lighting, is it just a matter of taking a hood and customizing it to include 4-5 bulbs? Is this something I can do fairly easily myself or are there places that can do it for you?

My little 5 gallon has 6 rummynoses and a couple corycats, and some driftwood with fishtail fern growing all over it. Is 2-3 times a month okay? I try to pick the larger snails out when I do my water changes, but those babies always come back.
 

Lotus

Ultimate Fish
Moderator
Aug 26, 2003
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Southern California
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#5
If I were to set up another tank, I would get a tank without the hood and run it with a glass hood and light fixture. The cost of the lighting will depend a lot on how fancy a fixture you want design-wise. This place has some nice looking fixtures with good light: http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/NavResults.cfm?N=2004+113345

The CO2 setup cost is high, but the running costs are low (probably less than $20 a year to run it).

If you really want to emulate the Amano tanks, you should spend out on a good tank with fewer/less noticable seems. You will probably also be better off choosing a different tank size than many of the standard ones, as many standard tanks aren't really good for aquascaping (too narrow). Take a look around some stores to see different sizes. For example, a 20 long is completely different to aquascape than a 20 high tank, and a 40 breeder tank has a lot more possibilities than a 55g standard tank in terms of the aquascape you can create. Tank size will also influence your lighting choices, so it's a good idea to know what lighting you can easily get for the tank you want.

Of course, I have no idea what your budget is.

Oh, and on the snails, feeding less will decrease the population. They multiply when there's an excess of food available in the tank. You can bait them out or remove them, but they'll keep coming back if there's too much food around for them. :)
 

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discus4everGrl

Superstar Fish
May 24, 2005
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Chesapeake, Va
#6
oh yeah, Amano = awesome tanks. He puts out a magazine called something like nature aquariums or something to that effect. But yeah, he uses long and shallow tanks for the most part. This allows the plants to get more light since it doesn't have to penetrate so deeply and becomes dispersed all over the place.
 

Plantasia

Small Fish
Jan 4, 2006
15
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0
#7
Thanks Lotus and discus4everGrl -- I think I'm moving towards 40 gallon, definitely don't want something too deep. My budget's fairly limited so I'm going to be building this thing very slowly and deliberately (already have a filter, so tank first, then lighting, C02, etc.). And since I am definitely interested in emulating Amano, lighting and C02 will be my top priorities in setting it up.
 

Lotus

Ultimate Fish
Moderator
Aug 26, 2003
15,115
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38
Southern California
home.earthlink.net
#8
Sounds like you're taking time to plan, which is a good idea :D

Definitely take a look at tanks at local stores to see how they look in terms of space for aquascaping. Taller tanks are definitely harder to get a nice look with, if you're really into the design/aquascaping thing. Also, look at the dimensions/proportions of some of the Amano tanks to see how they are set up. The 20g long and 15g tanks are also nice (but a little narrow), if you want to do something on a small scale (plant choice becomes harder, though). Tanks with some depth from front to back will give you that all-important "depth" that seems to be important for aquascapers.
 

Plantasia

Small Fish
Jan 4, 2006
15
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0
#10
discus4everGrl said:
are you putting fish in this tank?
Yes – I would love to have Discus and have thought about it, but they’re so expensive and high maintenance. Someday though. This tank will have some baby angels from a friend, plus tetras, dwarf suckers, algae-eating shrimp and bottom feeders.