Lowering Nitrates from local tap water

[loachboy]

Do anyone have a good ideas on how to lower the Nitrates coming from my tap water.  Out of the tap my levels are 40PPM.  The good news is what I though was a problem with the tankturns out to be the tap water.  Fish seem happy and healthy but I'd really like to the level down to almost nothing.  All my other levels are good.  Tanks for any ideas.

Tim

 

[Avalon]

You would have to get an R/O filtering system for that. That would benefit you much more than just getting rid of nitrates. The water from mine comes out at a perfect 7.0 pH, nor does it conduct electricity, meaning no nitrates.

 

[colesea]

R/O water doesn't conduct electricity because it has no ions in solution, which has nothing at all to do with nitrate levels, and everthing to do with mineral levels. I can go into the chemistry behind it if you want, but it's really boring stuff, unless you're a fanitic science major.

If you are using an R/O unit, you can either add aquarium salt to the produced water to bring the mineral content back, or mix it with your tap water to find an acceptable ratio to you. By diluting your tap water with R/O water, you will reduce your nitrate levels. It won't completely get rid of the nitrate, but it will keep it managable and still allow for the natural minerals to be in the water. If you use strait R/O water with your fish, they will suffer mineral defeciencies that cannot be adaquately supplied by diet.
~~Colesea

 

[JWright]

"nor does it conduct electricity, meaning no nitrates"

Plain old tap water won't conduct very well. Don't believe me? Take out a mult-meter and stick the probes in a glass of water, you'll find a couple hundred kilo-ohms with only an inch of seperation.

But that's beside the point. RO filtered water is obviously free of nitrates (by definition...) but that's not exactly a good thing. Fish need trace amounts of all sorts of elements, and if you use pure RO water, you're not doing your fish any favors.

There are several easier (and cheaper) was of getting rid of nitrate. If you want to go the "man-made" route, there are ion-exchange resins that will elimintate nitrate. An even more effective, and attractive, method would be to plant your tank. Plants use nitrate as a food source and would love your water.

HTH,
Josh

 

[JWright]

That's the second time this week someones beaten me... First MRB now you Cole...

Josh

 

[Avalon]

"R/O water doesn't conduct electricity because it has no ions in solution, which has nothing at all to do with nitrate levels, and everthing to do with mineral levels."

Partly true, and your right about not having anything to do with nitrate levels--oops, I was in a hurry. However, R/O filtration systems do a very good job at eliminating most of the nitrates. There are many different brands and filters, some are better than others. I have three different types of filters on mine.

"If you are using an R/O unit, you can either add aquarium salt to the produced water to bring the mineral content back"

I would like to know how aquarium salt provides all the trace elements contained in tap water. I don't like using salt, but like you mentioned, mixing it with tap water would be much better. I wouldn't use 100% R/O water in my tank. Water changes using tap water would replenish the trace elements as well. I mainly use R/O water because the water supply here is horrible. My fish don't seem to mind it too much, but my plants do.

"Plain old tap water won't conduct very well."
You must have really good water. My tap water tested about 20K ohms...

*thumbsupsmiley*

 

[JWright]

I live in upstate NY, so my water's pretty hard (so it conducts better than most). I actually tested my water jsut before posting to be sure of my numbers, it ranged from 170-230 Kohms

Cole never said R/O water isn't nitrate free, she just said that the lack of conduction has nothing to do with the nitrate levels. (BTW Cole, nitrate has a net negative charge, so it does aid conduction a little).

She also said _aquarium_ salt, which does have trace elements added to it (usually..., the cheap stuff is plain old table salt).

Josh

 

[colesea]

Thanks for the mental prod Josh...I wasn't sure exactly how in depth people wanted to get. We did experiments like this in my physics class, then again in my oceanography class, then -again- in my sophomore chemistry class, -and- in my physiology classes. Conductivity comparisons of strong acids and bases and buffers, decreasing/increasing ion concentrations effect on conductivity, various conducting properies of oceanic water as affected by temperature, the effect of various saline concentraions on the deplorization of nerve cells, the effect of Ca+2 channel blockers on cardiac muscle, what happens when you give a pithed frog a 6 volt jolt....*sigh*

Nobody go sticking their fingers in any electrical sockets, okay?<G>
~~Colesea

 

[ronrca]

Conductivity of water again? One pet peev I have is the topic of water conducting. Under normal conditions it is something not to worry about unless you are applying something unsafe. Conductivity in the form of mineral content? Well ok, thats a different way to look at it. All that really bothers me is that some people get so worried about electricity in their tanks from pumps and whoknowswhat and are misinformed.

Sorry, just had to vent a little.

Back to the topic, lowing nitrates with a mixture of R/O and tap water is a good idea. Just using R/O will also work. Something to play around with always (not in your tank though).  *thumbsupsmiley*

 

[dattack]

Just get live plants.  It will take care of most of your water problems, including the nitrate.

 

[newfisher]

*crazysmiley*[glow=red,2,300]TEXT[/glow]Please see my "New kid on da block" thread! looking for suggestions regarding RO units!

later! *twirlysmiley*

 

[newfisher]

*laughingcryingsmiley*
LOL!
Try this again...

[glow=red,2,300]As I was saying...please see MY thread!!![/glow] *thumbsupsmiley*

 

[Avalon]

I have two: A Northstar, and a RainSoft. The rainsoft is nice, but expensive. Only servicable by a dealer. It really doesn't matter all that much, as long as they have the necessary filters and won't cost too much to service. Make sure you find out the manufacturer before you order "R/O filter" off of e-bay.

 

[loachboy]

Well Tanks to everyone for the advice.  I think I learned a little more then I was expecting  *twirlysmiley*.  I already have a few plants in my tanks, and it does not seem to help.  How many plants do you think it would take (in a 55gal)?  My LFS has some R/O water, maybe I'll try it and then buy a filter if it works out.

 

[Matt Nace]

Dattack probebly forgot to mention that you would most likely have to upgrade your lighting . 40 watts(i am assuming) is not that great for plants.


Ron,

Are you referring to the stray voltage people talk about? If so..yes I agree.

But actually worrying about if your cords have a drip lope,because the fish knocked your canister output up slightly so it was sprinkling water down to the extension cord(-=SHOCK=-) or worrying why your arm hurts when you stick it in the water because the heater burned up...that I do worry about..cause it has happened to myself.

 

[Avalon]

I would also like to add that I forgot to mention one very important aspect: You do not want you nitrates a 0 ppm. This would bring about perfect conditions for blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) in your tank, as well as red-hair (beard) algae. When your plants consume all the nitrates and there are leftover phosphates, you are asking for trouble.

 

[loachboy]

Thanks for that info,  would I be correct in saying that 40ppm or just above it to high, and that I should do something?  Is a good range to stay at 10ppm or so?