my new tank setup ?s

geoff

Large Fish
Dec 14, 2002
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#1
I have a 50 gal tank and stand. I know that I want to keep some red zebras and yellow labs in it. Other then that, I haven't decided what esle I want in it yet though. I'd like to try some live plants, but since I know these guys are diggers, I'm going to stick with anubias and java fern.

I want to start getting the rest of the equipment together to get this tank going. So, my question, is what do I need? I'm not looking to spend a fortune, but I want to keep these guys as happy as possible.

My water from the tap is very soft water with a Ph of about 7.
 

Managuense

Superstar Fish
May 16, 2003
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Springfield, MO
#2
i sent this to amazontanks a while back about her 55 gallon mbuna set-up, hope it helps.

in a 55 gallon you can do a killer mbuna (rock dwellers) tank, or you could do peacocks (very pretty) or other haps.

in a 55 due to the size of the tank, i would PERSONALLY do an mbuna set-up.

i will break this down in every aspect i can think of for you:

1st thing: in the bottom of your tank (bare bottom) you should put a layer of eggcrate (cheap at lowes or home depot in the lighting section -also called fluorescent ligting diffuser) which will allow you to put a heck of a lot of rockwork in your tank without having to worry about pressure points and having your tank crack in the bottom.

substrate: if you look at pictures of lake malawi and tanganyika you will notice that most of the lake bed is covered in sand. if you want the full range of natural behavior from your africans i would recommend some type of silica (which is inert) sand. the kind i like comes in a 50 lb bag at Lowes for 2.39$ -- it is called "medium- coarse" quikrete sand. it looks awesome and works great. 1 bag o this would do your tank just fine.

many people like to use crushed coral, or aragonite, crushed oyster shell, or some other type of so called "buffering" substrate. i dont feel that these look as good nor do they really "buffer" the water....especially since my water is already pretty hard. plus--crushed coral is a real pain in the ass to keep cleaned. sand is VERY, VERY easy to keep cleaned.

what is your ph, kh, gh ??

my advice is to go with the sand, it is the best.

filtration: i imagine you already have filters, but if you plan to use sand as your substrate i would recommend a canister over a HOB as your canister can suck up a little sand without buring the impeller up.... which really sucks, trust me. if you cant get a canister filter, you should really cover the intake pipes of your HOB's with a piece of sponge and raise them fairly high in the take to prevent (if at all possible) sand from getting into the filters.

decoration: for the most natural mbuna tank possible, i like to use "roundish" chunks of granite or some other type of rocks. the way that you place them in your tank does NOT matter, as the fish will pick caves and hiding places that you NEVER thought possible....trust me. if you design the rocks with the "idea" about where caves will be the fish will not use them--they will make their own. so i just make little piles and let the fish have at it!

NOTE- many people LOVE to use flat rocks like slate, which look like crap to me. they stack these slate rocks with silicon and fill their entire tank with them and i just cant stand it! you find NO flat like rocks in either of the african lakes!

now for the fish:

species i think are more trouble than they are worth

- melanochromis auratus
- maylandia lombardoi (kenyi)
- maylandia crabo (bumble bee)
- pseudotropheus demasoni

all of the above are either too aggressive, large, or try to hybridize with everything...just say no to them.

species i think are great:

- labidochromis caereleus (yellow labs)
- Iodotropheus sp. (rusties)
- zebras
- Pseudotropheus salousi
- P. socolofi


there are others, but these are my favorite

you could make a nice tank with only a couple of species (regardless of what other people tell you)

in all honesty, if i had to set-up a 55 gallon mbuna tank, i would get these:

6-9 yellow labs (they play very nice together)
3-4 rusties
maybe a couple of cobalt zebras

and that is about it!

i prefer few species, many of them----rather than what a lot of people do: 1 zebra, 1 auratus, 1 socolofi, 1 rusty, etc. which is boring IMO.

HTH--keep me posted,
M
 

geoff

Large Fish
Dec 14, 2002
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Portland, OR
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#4
That's awesome advice!! Thanks a lot. A couple of other questions, I've thought of:

I read something about needing to over-filter the tank. What type of gph rating should i look for? I'm thinking about getting both a canister and a HOB filter for redundancy?

Will a regular hinged glass lid work? Are these guys jumpers?

Anybody using undergravel jets? Are the worthwhile? Or will they just take up too much room in my 50g?

You said you have hard water so the buffering sands aren't necessary. My water has virtually no hardness, so would it be worthwhile for me to use them?

Thanks a lot for your help.
 

Managuense

Superstar Fish
May 16, 2003
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Springfield, MO
#5
honestly in your situation you may consider using some type of buffer, such as using a bag of crushed coral in your filter.... i have not had good luck with baking soda myself, but YMMV.

What type of gph rating should i look for? I'm thinking about getting both a canister and a HOB filter for redundancy?
gph does NOT matter bro. one eheim that pumps 265 gph will out filter an emperor 400 (gph) anyday, anytime, ... think about this: would you rather have a low gph filter that runs your water through a LOT of media, or a high gph filter that runs the water through one floss bag?? or you can compare a powerhead that cranks 500 gph through NO media to a ....ok you get the point.


on a 50 gallon, i would use one canister filter and one HOB-- either the aquaclear or the emperor. it is hard to beat an aquaclear 300 or 500 with 2 sponges.

for canisters the eheims are top of the line, but the filstars and via-aqua are GREAT filters for a fraction of the cost.

i personally run the pro II 2028, but on a 50 that is overkill--you may check out the ecco filters for your tank, as they are great little filters.

Anybody using undergravel jets?
dont do it, cichlids will dig them up and it is not worth one second of your time.

But i gotta question, how thick are those eggcrates? Do they come in differnt sizes? I want to put a lot of rockwork in my 55gal but.....don't want TO much substrate
eggcrate is not very thick, maybe like a half inch or so. the concern is that rocks sometimes have jagged edges that can apply pressure-points to your bottom glass, which can cause MAJOR problems.

the bottom of most glass tanks is very strong and can support a lot of weight, but the added protection of eggcrate is a real load off of the mind.

also, large rocks (over time) can "etch" the bottom of you tank by sliding back and forth which can weaken your bottom glass over the years.

bottom line-- if you like mbuna tanks, you gotta have rocks and a lot of them. :) eggcrate is cheap and is a good insurance policy for your tank.
M
 

wayne

Elite Fish
Oct 22, 2002
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#6
If you have low hardness then 'buffering' up the hardness is pretty essential. You can make your own , use coral or use a commercial mix. I do the latter as they're not that pricey and I'm lazy. Make sure you use a mix that contains little or no NaCl, or common salt, as this is often bunged in. This is very bad as it does nothing useful, and has been linked to a bloat diesease, by causing osmotic problems.
Filtration - bear in mind that you don't need 'reef' water circulation - I'd go for an Eheim ECCO - big volume, lower water movement, comes with all media included and not bad price for an Eheim. Get the biggest one. I have one, it's pretty good if you don't need the water movement