Overflow gurgling sound
- Thread starter Joe Fish
- Start date
not being a plumbing wizard I purchased this and believe me it is the best thing since sliced white wonder bread....
Stockman Aqua-Silencer Overflow Model: Premium Aquatics
Stockman Aqua-Silencer Overflow Model: Premium Aquatics
Yeah, that would work if I had a HOB overflow. I'm using a AGA megaflow overflow. So, I already have the elbow and other parts needed. Like I said, it's not a constant flushing sound, but it comes and goes every few seconds. The overflow fills up with water than "woooosh" it goes down... this just repeats.
It's not just excess water going down the drain, but a lot of air.
It's not just excess water going down the drain, but a lot of air.
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Thanks Lorna, I'll have to check that out.
I just found this FAQ on the durso standpipe website. It's my issue exactly:
Q1. Flushing Effect - Water level goes up and down!
Answer:
A commonly reported problem when first installing standpipes is what I call a flushing effect. The water level in the chamber bounces up and down at a slow steady cyclic pattern. This is different than the issue above where the water level stays to low. This issues typically is not caused by the size of the air-hole in the end cap. The flushing effect is almost always caused by back pressure in the drain line. Typically the back pressure has two main causes:
1. Drain pipes in the sump being submerged below the water surface to far. Ideally you just want the drain pipes submerged about an inch or two. Just enough to reduce the splashing noise in the sump.
2. Any loops or dips in the drain lines if using flexible tubing. If using hard PVC pipe for the drain lines make sure they always have a slope to them, don't make them perfectly horizontal or perfectly vertical.
The flushing effect works like this: Back pressure in the standpipe prevents air in the pipe from exiting the drain line. Instead of exiting the drain line, the air bubbles try to rise in the pipe slowing the rate at which the pipes drain. The water level in the chamber then rises. The increase in the chamber water level adds pressure to help clear the air from the pipe. Once enough water pressure exists in the chamber to overcome the back pressure, the air is literally is "burped" out of the drain line which crates a sudden rush of water. This is displayed as a rapid drop in the overflow chamber water level. This cycle then repeats itself over and over as the back pressure builds and gets purged.
I'll have to try these 2 things and see what happens. I do have hose submerged before 2" and there is a horizontal straight stretch to it.
I just found this FAQ on the durso standpipe website. It's my issue exactly:
Q1. Flushing Effect - Water level goes up and down!
Answer:
A commonly reported problem when first installing standpipes is what I call a flushing effect. The water level in the chamber bounces up and down at a slow steady cyclic pattern. This is different than the issue above where the water level stays to low. This issues typically is not caused by the size of the air-hole in the end cap. The flushing effect is almost always caused by back pressure in the drain line. Typically the back pressure has two main causes:
1. Drain pipes in the sump being submerged below the water surface to far. Ideally you just want the drain pipes submerged about an inch or two. Just enough to reduce the splashing noise in the sump.
2. Any loops or dips in the drain lines if using flexible tubing. If using hard PVC pipe for the drain lines make sure they always have a slope to them, don't make them perfectly horizontal or perfectly vertical.
The flushing effect works like this: Back pressure in the standpipe prevents air in the pipe from exiting the drain line. Instead of exiting the drain line, the air bubbles try to rise in the pipe slowing the rate at which the pipes drain. The water level in the chamber then rises. The increase in the chamber water level adds pressure to help clear the air from the pipe. Once enough water pressure exists in the chamber to overcome the back pressure, the air is literally is "burped" out of the drain line which crates a sudden rush of water. This is displayed as a rapid drop in the overflow chamber water level. This cycle then repeats itself over and over as the back pressure builds and gets purged.
I'll have to try these 2 things and see what happens. I do have hose submerged before 2" and there is a horizontal straight stretch to it.
Your return pump is to strong and sucking air into the drain pipe... the air has no where to escape, but back up causeing the surges/gurgling.
You mentioned that when you throttled down your return flow the problem went away!!!
How many and what size are your drain pipes and how may gph is your pump?
The durso standpipe method will help you out in this situation if you have the room in your overflow... if not you can take a look at my sump pic and see another solution.
You mentioned that when you throttled down your return flow the problem went away!!!
How many and what size are your drain pipes and how may gph is your pump?
The durso standpipe method will help you out in this situation if you have the room in your overflow... if not you can take a look at my sump pic and see another solution.
I have a durso style stand pipe, but not the actual durso model. It's an 90 degree elbow with a guard on it with a few holes to help air get in. I have a 1" bulkhead on the drain and 3/4 on the return. I only slightly restricted the drain pipe not the return. I put a "T" in my return so if I throttle down the return and can redirect the excess flow back into the sump. Works nice for water changes. I don't need to turn any of the pumps off! My return pump is a 9.5 and i'm just confused on why it worked with freshwater just not saltwater. My pump never is without water so where is it getting water from?
I read my megaflow overflow isn't really MEGA... and that's most like not draining fast enough. The overflow compartment will fill up to the tank level then whoooosh it flushes down a few inches. This repeats over and over, that is until I put a ball valve on the drain.
I read my megaflow overflow isn't really MEGA... and that's most like not draining fast enough. The overflow compartment will fill up to the tank level then whoooosh it flushes down a few inches. This repeats over and over, that is until I put a ball valve on the drain.
My overflow does this alot. What you need to do is take the top most part of the drain line. Right above where your 90 is. it should have a cap or something of that sort. And drill a small hole big enough so that a peice of airline tubing can fit in it tightly. Put about a 3" length of airline tubing in there and wala. its gone. the reason its flushing is because no air can escape, it creates a siphon, thus the water level in your overflow goes down until air can get in the pipe. and when it does it will fill back up, it starts all over again, back and forth, back and forth.
to see what im talking about, take the cap of your MEGA flow(the drain PVC part inside your overflow) and take it off. the gurgling and flushing should suffice immediately. now take your hand and cover it. Observe. Take it off. and observe. It needs air to escape and enter freely to work quietly.
Also, take the ball valve off or KEEP it open, otherwise you could possibly overflow your tank. AND the reason it worked with freshwater and not saltwater is because SW is much more dense. Im not too sure how exactly that affects it, but it's mosty likely your problem. Im guessing AGA desgined this tank with FW in mind or were too lazy to make up SW.
Let us know how it goes
to see what im talking about, take the cap of your MEGA flow(the drain PVC part inside your overflow) and take it off. the gurgling and flushing should suffice immediately. now take your hand and cover it. Observe. Take it off. and observe. It needs air to escape and enter freely to work quietly.
Also, take the ball valve off or KEEP it open, otherwise you could possibly overflow your tank. AND the reason it worked with freshwater and not saltwater is because SW is much more dense. Im not too sure how exactly that affects it, but it's mosty likely your problem. Im guessing AGA desgined this tank with FW in mind or were too lazy to make up SW.
Let us know how it goes
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