PH myths debunked
There are many myths about pH that abound in today’s society. From what’s best for a certain species, how to change it, when to change it, how to keep it stable etc… With this, I aim to debunk some of the more popular myths about pH to help those new to the hobby, and Rift Lake cichlids have a better understanding. And who knows, maybe even teach some of the older dogs some new tricks in the process. Believe me, you do not have to be a chemistry whiz to be able to figure this stuff out.
As we all have been, I was a newbie once. Looking in wonder at all the products available to me. Thinking, “Wow, this can’t be that hard. Just look at all the nice, overly priced chemicals that the wonderful company’s have made just for me.” Well, guess what. There are more products on the market today to part an inexperienced aquarist with their money than those that are useful. Aquarium companies are there to make money. Your Local Fish Store (LFS) is there to make money. Do you really think that they can survive on the fish sales alone? Nope. That’s why they make, and sell sometimes very useless products. The water where you live has a natural pH, and any attempt to alter it in any manner is an effort in futility without the proper knowledge.
I have kept Rift Lake cichlids from Lake Tanganyika for some time now. At first I was more than happy to do my best to replicate the natural water conditions from which the fish came from, until I realized that it was unnecessary. It is not that difficult of a task to do, however it takes great patience, and a willing mind to do it properly. It is certainly not for those ‘Lazy’ aquarists among us.
This is mainly geared to those interested in replicating the ‘natural’ conditions found in the rift lakes of Africa. They are notorious for having a high pH and very hard water. I have the most experience with cichlids from Lake Tanganyika, so I will be referring to these most often.
What is pH?
pH is the measurement of the acidity and alkalinity of a substance. For the purpose of this article, we will stick to the Ph of water. The pH scale goes from 0-14. 0 is very strong acids, where 14 is absolute alkalinity, and 7 being neutral. The pH scale is what’s called a logarithmic scale. Meaning that each whole increment is 10 times more, or less than the next or previous unit. So a pH of 8.0 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7.0. And a pH of 6.5 is 5 times more acidic than 7.0. Here we can see why acclimating a fish to a new pH slowly is so important. (wow I didn’t know that…that makes sense!)
KH and gH
What do these have to do with pH? A lot! This is the measurement of the hardness of water. Hardness is the measurement of the degree of dissolved minerals found in water. The more dissolved minerals, the harder the water. The less, the softer the water.
Hardness can be measured in two ways, degrees (dH), and parts per million (ppm).The pH scale is universal. Hardness scales unfortunately are not and these are the most common ways to express hardness. Using the degree (dK) is the method that is most widely used. This table gives a brief understanding of what is considered ‘Soft’ water to ‘Hard’ water.
The kH and gH of an aquarium is almost always directly related to the pH. The harder the water, the higher the pH. The hardness also acts as a buffer to the pH. The harder the water is, the less pH fluctuation you are going to have, meaning a more stable environment. Softer water has less of this buffer, and the Ph can change easier, for the good or for the bad.
Now don’t look at this as any soft water aquarium is doomed for failure, because it is not. That’s very far from the truth. This just means that if you have soft water, then you just have to pay a little more attention to your water changes, and what goes into the aquarium. Driftwood for example is a popular decoration for aquariums, but it does have the ability to alter the pH slightly. It does this because driftwood can release tannin into the water. This tannin is acid based and can lower the pH of an aquarium, though most of the time not enough to worry about. This is why most Rift Lake set-ups are seen without real driftwood. Other decorations not labeled for aquarium use can also release minerals or even toxins into your water, again altering the chemistry. Unless you know for sure that something is safe or not for aquarium use, its best to just not use it at all.
Planted tanks are becoming ever more popular in the aquarium hobby for many reasons. And the most common fish you will see in these right now are species of fish that come from South and Central America. Why? Because some planted tanks require additional nutrients and gases to grow right. Co2 (carbon dioxide) is very often injected into a planted tank to help the plants grow healthier. Co2 also creates a chemical reaction in the water that naturally reduces the pH. The water volume and the amount of Co2 being injected determine the reduction in the pH. This is why normally you will not see many Rift Lake cichlids in a planted tank. Normally. As usual, I like to be the exception to the rule. I have a 45 gallon planted tank with some shell dwellers and Julies, both that come from Lake Tanganyika. How? I don’t inject Co2, and my Ph is consistent at 7.9. Why did I share this little tid-bit with you? To show you that despite what the norm is, there are always exceptions to the rules.
You want me to do what with my water??
I want you to test it!
No aquarium hobbyist should be without a good test kit. While you may not use it on a day to day basis, it’s always in the fish’s best interest for you to have one on hand and know the parameters of your tank.
There are many different types of testing kits available to the hobbyist today. One of the most common and most accurate in my opinion are the drop tests. These tests come with a glass vial used to measure out a pre-defined amount of water (usually 5ml), bottles of testing solution, and a color chart to read the results. This is an easy to use test, its cheap to buy, lasts quite a while depending on how often you use it, and is the most accurate for the price.
I have never used the strip tests. These are strips that you dip directly into the water and it gives you instant results. I have never heard anything good about these tests. Also for the money vs. the amount of tests you get, they are extremely expensive.
Electronic testers are in my opinion the easiest and most accurate out of all the methods. But, are also the most expensive. They use a calibrating solution that sets them to a common pH that compares your water with that of the known pH to get the pH of the water you are testing.. You just turn it on, stick the testing part in the water and instant results.
Testing should be done at the least weekly when first starting a new tank. As the tank matures, you can adjust the frequency of the test to suit the needs of the tank. Some people faithfully test weekly, while others (myself included) may only test once every few months.
It is always a good idea to keep track of the results of you tests. Not only pH, but other water parameters as well such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, and hardness. This helps determine how often you should test, and how stable your tank really is. Also one needs to keep track of the pH of the water that comes out of the tap. Chlorine and other chemicals affect this reading, so to get an accurate measure, it is best to take a bucket of tap water and let it sit overnight with a bubble stone in it. The air stone helps to eliminate the chemicals that are used to treat your tap water, and thus making the reading more accurate. Let the bucket sit for at least 24 hours, and then take the tests.
So what is the right pH to have? That’s an easy one. What ever is coming out of your tap water the right pH to have. No need to fix something that isn’t broke.
There are many myths about pH that abound in today’s society. From what’s best for a certain species, how to change it, when to change it, how to keep it stable etc… With this, I aim to debunk some of the more popular myths about pH to help those new to the hobby, and Rift Lake cichlids have a better understanding. And who knows, maybe even teach some of the older dogs some new tricks in the process. Believe me, you do not have to be a chemistry whiz to be able to figure this stuff out.
As we all have been, I was a newbie once. Looking in wonder at all the products available to me. Thinking, “Wow, this can’t be that hard. Just look at all the nice, overly priced chemicals that the wonderful company’s have made just for me.” Well, guess what. There are more products on the market today to part an inexperienced aquarist with their money than those that are useful. Aquarium companies are there to make money. Your Local Fish Store (LFS) is there to make money. Do you really think that they can survive on the fish sales alone? Nope. That’s why they make, and sell sometimes very useless products. The water where you live has a natural pH, and any attempt to alter it in any manner is an effort in futility without the proper knowledge.
I have kept Rift Lake cichlids from Lake Tanganyika for some time now. At first I was more than happy to do my best to replicate the natural water conditions from which the fish came from, until I realized that it was unnecessary. It is not that difficult of a task to do, however it takes great patience, and a willing mind to do it properly. It is certainly not for those ‘Lazy’ aquarists among us.
This is mainly geared to those interested in replicating the ‘natural’ conditions found in the rift lakes of Africa. They are notorious for having a high pH and very hard water. I have the most experience with cichlids from Lake Tanganyika, so I will be referring to these most often.
What is pH?
pH is the measurement of the acidity and alkalinity of a substance. For the purpose of this article, we will stick to the Ph of water. The pH scale goes from 0-14. 0 is very strong acids, where 14 is absolute alkalinity, and 7 being neutral. The pH scale is what’s called a logarithmic scale. Meaning that each whole increment is 10 times more, or less than the next or previous unit. So a pH of 8.0 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7.0. And a pH of 6.5 is 5 times more acidic than 7.0. Here we can see why acclimating a fish to a new pH slowly is so important. (wow I didn’t know that…that makes sense!)
KH and gH
What do these have to do with pH? A lot! This is the measurement of the hardness of water. Hardness is the measurement of the degree of dissolved minerals found in water. The more dissolved minerals, the harder the water. The less, the softer the water.
Hardness can be measured in two ways, degrees (dH), and parts per million (ppm).The pH scale is universal. Hardness scales unfortunately are not and these are the most common ways to express hardness. Using the degree (dK) is the method that is most widely used. This table gives a brief understanding of what is considered ‘Soft’ water to ‘Hard’ water.
The kH and gH of an aquarium is almost always directly related to the pH. The harder the water, the higher the pH. The hardness also acts as a buffer to the pH. The harder the water is, the less pH fluctuation you are going to have, meaning a more stable environment. Softer water has less of this buffer, and the Ph can change easier, for the good or for the bad.
Now don’t look at this as any soft water aquarium is doomed for failure, because it is not. That’s very far from the truth. This just means that if you have soft water, then you just have to pay a little more attention to your water changes, and what goes into the aquarium. Driftwood for example is a popular decoration for aquariums, but it does have the ability to alter the pH slightly. It does this because driftwood can release tannin into the water. This tannin is acid based and can lower the pH of an aquarium, though most of the time not enough to worry about. This is why most Rift Lake set-ups are seen without real driftwood. Other decorations not labeled for aquarium use can also release minerals or even toxins into your water, again altering the chemistry. Unless you know for sure that something is safe or not for aquarium use, its best to just not use it at all.
Planted tanks are becoming ever more popular in the aquarium hobby for many reasons. And the most common fish you will see in these right now are species of fish that come from South and Central America. Why? Because some planted tanks require additional nutrients and gases to grow right. Co2 (carbon dioxide) is very often injected into a planted tank to help the plants grow healthier. Co2 also creates a chemical reaction in the water that naturally reduces the pH. The water volume and the amount of Co2 being injected determine the reduction in the pH. This is why normally you will not see many Rift Lake cichlids in a planted tank. Normally. As usual, I like to be the exception to the rule. I have a 45 gallon planted tank with some shell dwellers and Julies, both that come from Lake Tanganyika. How? I don’t inject Co2, and my Ph is consistent at 7.9. Why did I share this little tid-bit with you? To show you that despite what the norm is, there are always exceptions to the rules.
You want me to do what with my water??
I want you to test it!
No aquarium hobbyist should be without a good test kit. While you may not use it on a day to day basis, it’s always in the fish’s best interest for you to have one on hand and know the parameters of your tank.
There are many different types of testing kits available to the hobbyist today. One of the most common and most accurate in my opinion are the drop tests. These tests come with a glass vial used to measure out a pre-defined amount of water (usually 5ml), bottles of testing solution, and a color chart to read the results. This is an easy to use test, its cheap to buy, lasts quite a while depending on how often you use it, and is the most accurate for the price.
I have never used the strip tests. These are strips that you dip directly into the water and it gives you instant results. I have never heard anything good about these tests. Also for the money vs. the amount of tests you get, they are extremely expensive.
Electronic testers are in my opinion the easiest and most accurate out of all the methods. But, are also the most expensive. They use a calibrating solution that sets them to a common pH that compares your water with that of the known pH to get the pH of the water you are testing.. You just turn it on, stick the testing part in the water and instant results.
Testing should be done at the least weekly when first starting a new tank. As the tank matures, you can adjust the frequency of the test to suit the needs of the tank. Some people faithfully test weekly, while others (myself included) may only test once every few months.
It is always a good idea to keep track of the results of you tests. Not only pH, but other water parameters as well such as ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, and hardness. This helps determine how often you should test, and how stable your tank really is. Also one needs to keep track of the pH of the water that comes out of the tap. Chlorine and other chemicals affect this reading, so to get an accurate measure, it is best to take a bucket of tap water and let it sit overnight with a bubble stone in it. The air stone helps to eliminate the chemicals that are used to treat your tap water, and thus making the reading more accurate. Let the bucket sit for at least 24 hours, and then take the tests.
So what is the right pH to have? That’s an easy one. What ever is coming out of your tap water the right pH to have. No need to fix something that isn’t broke.