To build this stand all you need is a few simple tools. A drill with the appropriate bit, a tape measure, a square, a pencil, a level, and a saw. I prefer a miter saw but a skill saw or a jig saw will work. Ease of use declines in the order I listed them.
Supplies needed for a stand this size are 5 8 ft 2X4s, 2 scrap pieces of 1X4s, a box of 3 1X2 inch deck screws, and 5 cans of cheap spray paint. Wal-Mart has them for 99 cents a piece.
This stand is designed so the front and back cross support pieces overlap the side supports. Pics will explain later.
I made this stand to hold 2 20Ls but it can be made to hold just one tank. The one tank stand is the same design just shorter. If you decide to build it to hold 2 tanks, don’t do like cichlid man
and forget to account for the added width of the frame on the tanks.
First thing you want to do is to draw out your blueprints. Take your time and have someone double check your math. My example, is to hold the second tank on the lower level I needed 4 pieces of 2x4 cut to 37 inches, 4 pieces cut 10 inches. 2 more short pieces are needed as center braces for larger tanks. 2 1x4s cut to 37 inches. And for the legs I just divided what was left of the 2x4s to give me 4 of the tallest pieces I could get. Making the stand about 5 feet tall. I wanted it tall so my bottom tank wasn’t on the ground, and you will need about 10 inches of clearance above the top of the bottom tank.. When doing the math for your application be sure to remember 2x4s are only 1 ½ inches wide. Not 2 inches. This comes into play when figuring out how wide you need the stand to be for the front and back cross supports to overlap the side supports and come out even. Measurments can be adjusted for any tank size.
You can tell I put a lot of work into my blueprints.
Now you want to measure, mark, and cut all of your wood. Once cutting is done lay 2 of the legs out on the floor and figure out where you want your bottom shelf to go. Lay the side supports on the desired position and use a square to make sure everything is strait. Use 2 screws per connection making sure to stager the screws to help prevent them from splitting the wood.
Repeat the last step for the next set of legs.
This is what you should have when finished.
Now put the assembled legs on the floor in the position they are going to be once the stand is completed. Lay the cross supports on overlapping the side supports. Check the supports with the square. Then screw them down, again using 2 screws per connection, and staggering the screws.
Flip the stand over and repeat the last step.
Stand the stand up then square and screw the 1x4s on the top. Then double check the top and bottom shelf with a level. If you squared things up right no adjustment should be needed.
Bring the stand to an area with plenty of ventilation for painting. Paint light even coats with the spay paint.
It will need to stay outside for a couple of days unless you like the smell of paint in your house.
When I add the bottom tank I will need to cut two more 10 inch side supports for the inside of the bottom shelf.
Supplies needed for a stand this size are 5 8 ft 2X4s, 2 scrap pieces of 1X4s, a box of 3 1X2 inch deck screws, and 5 cans of cheap spray paint. Wal-Mart has them for 99 cents a piece.
This stand is designed so the front and back cross support pieces overlap the side supports. Pics will explain later.
I made this stand to hold 2 20Ls but it can be made to hold just one tank. The one tank stand is the same design just shorter. If you decide to build it to hold 2 tanks, don’t do like cichlid man
and forget to account for the added width of the frame on the tanks. First thing you want to do is to draw out your blueprints. Take your time and have someone double check your math. My example, is to hold the second tank on the lower level I needed 4 pieces of 2x4 cut to 37 inches, 4 pieces cut 10 inches. 2 more short pieces are needed as center braces for larger tanks. 2 1x4s cut to 37 inches. And for the legs I just divided what was left of the 2x4s to give me 4 of the tallest pieces I could get. Making the stand about 5 feet tall. I wanted it tall so my bottom tank wasn’t on the ground, and you will need about 10 inches of clearance above the top of the bottom tank.. When doing the math for your application be sure to remember 2x4s are only 1 ½ inches wide. Not 2 inches. This comes into play when figuring out how wide you need the stand to be for the front and back cross supports to overlap the side supports and come out even. Measurments can be adjusted for any tank size.
You can tell I put a lot of work into my blueprints.
Now you want to measure, mark, and cut all of your wood. Once cutting is done lay 2 of the legs out on the floor and figure out where you want your bottom shelf to go. Lay the side supports on the desired position and use a square to make sure everything is strait. Use 2 screws per connection making sure to stager the screws to help prevent them from splitting the wood.
Repeat the last step for the next set of legs.
This is what you should have when finished.
Now put the assembled legs on the floor in the position they are going to be once the stand is completed. Lay the cross supports on overlapping the side supports. Check the supports with the square. Then screw them down, again using 2 screws per connection, and staggering the screws.
Flip the stand over and repeat the last step.
Stand the stand up then square and screw the 1x4s on the top. Then double check the top and bottom shelf with a level. If you squared things up right no adjustment should be needed.
Bring the stand to an area with plenty of ventilation for painting. Paint light even coats with the spay paint.
It will need to stay outside for a couple of days unless you like the smell of paint in your house.
When I add the bottom tank I will need to cut two more 10 inch side supports for the inside of the bottom shelf.
