Question about

equinom

Large Fish
Oct 22, 2002
386
0
0
The Blue Planet
#1
A while ago I saw a thread that was discussing filter materials.  Some folks say they only rinse off the spong-cartridge and do not replace it on a regular basis.  I think these were people using BioWheels, because the biofiltration was independant of the filter medium (carbon, sponge...)

My question is this:  Do you need to use the activated carbon filter pads?  Is it OK to rinse the stuff off the pad, and re-install that same filter?  Or can the pad be replaced with just the fiberous "cut to fit" material if the BioWheel has an established bacterial load?  

Colesea, I think you were in on this thread...  Care to elaborate?  Or someone tell me where I can find this thread - there are too many hits on filter!!!
 

Oct 22, 2002
349
0
0
39
St.Louis
#2
you don't need activated carbon in the filter bags but you should have some thing in them-ammo chips, peat, etc...These help with the chemical breakdown of some chemicals. i wash out my biobags everyonce in a while, just so that i don't go through them as fast. hope this helps some
 

colesea

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
1,612
0
0
NY USA
#3
In my opinion, which in no way is expert or professional:

The only time you need activated carbon in a tank:
1) In a cycling tank: It helps absorb ammonia and nitrites, thus reducing spikes. Once biological filtration has been fully established, carbon is unnecessary unless for some of the reasons stated below. Frequent small volume water changes would also benefit in a cycling tank to reduce spikes.
2) If your water is high in heavy metals: It helps absorb a bit of the iron and other heavy metals from your tank. Tap water conditioner should also help reduce these levels by binding them into inactive states, but, especially in the case of iron, special filtration may be needed for inverts and plants.
3) If your water is high in chlorine: Tap water conditioner will also help, but carbon will absorb chlorine as well
4) If you use well water: And it has not been filter before it enters your house to your tap. Use tap water condtioner, this water is usually high in iron and copper from pipes.
5) After medicating a sick tank: Carbon will absorb the medication and remove it from the water
6) If anything chemical has entered your tank that you don't want in it: Activated carbon is what posion patients are made to swallow after ingesting a toxic substance. If you have a tank in an office or someplace professional cleaners are using their industrial strength stuff, you may want carbon in your tank to help remove whatever incidental volitiles that may end up in the tank. I'm not talking pour the whole bottle of glass cleaner in the tank, that would need a water change to rectify.
7) Funky smells or colors: If the water turns funky, carbon can help absorb some of the damage, but water changes would be better.

If you have a fully established tank  then the bulk of your filtration should be done from whatever biological filtration you have set up. I prefer Marineland Biowheels because they seem to contain very good bacterial cultures and allow the bacteria to preform aerobic metabolism by the constant rotation and exposure to O2. Some people have achieved the same thing with AquaClears by only using sponge pads in their filters. Whispers have the biobag in which the carbon can be replaced but the bag itself saved. IMO: Marineland Biowheels provide more surface area for bacteria as well as a better aerobic conditions for bacterial growth, thus providing better biological filtration.

Fish stocking levels are proportional to the amount of biological, not chemical, filtration you have on your tank. Chemical filtration aka carbon, gets used up quickly and can be costly to repeatedly replace (the Marinland 330 replacements cost $30 for a three pack where I work). Since I don't have that type of money to be spending every year, I simply wash off the cartridges (two of them are a year old) to get macrojunk off them, and put them back. Is the carbon still active, heck no, but I use the floss part simply for mechanical filtration and let the biowheels and water changes take care of water quality. I've had two biowheels on one of my 330s cultured for a year now, and I can't report any water quality problems at this time. I water change twice a week though, so it just could be my O/C behavior that keeps the tanks so clear *shrug*. I check every day to make sure I have good rotation and adjust the biowheels accordingly.
~~Colesea
 

Matt Nace

Superstar Fish
Oct 22, 2002
1,470
1
38
Pennsylvania
#4
Carbon is a waste of money. Most of cole's Thoughts I agree with.

Carbon is good at getting rid of meds.
Carbon absorbs heavy metals.

I didn't know carbon even touched ammonia or nitrItes however.(which is why there is ammonia chips and ammonia-carb, which do actually work to a certain degree)

Carbon does get rid of tints in the water.
It also does get rid of smells.

But, it is usually spent(no longer useful) after the 5th day(or so). It then becomes more of a biological filter than anything else.


Along the thoughts of filter material, I just don't buy the brand names(made for aquariums) anymore. I use mattress padding foam,(others use pillow stuffing) which is $4 at wal-mart for my canister filters. I have 1/2 a roll left, and I bought it over a year and 1/2 ago.
Pretty cheap huh?

I also cut and tie the same material to my whisper filters, and my mother-in laws penguin bio-wheel filter(just keep the black plastic thing to tie it to)

I never keep anything in them, except bio-media , which I never touch. I don't use anything to break down chemicals, except a tap water conditioner for chlorine/chloramines.

The whisper filters are a bit tricky for bio media. Bio media(something to hold most of your bacteria)should always be after your mechanical filtration(such as floss) , so it doesn't get the bulk of the gunk comming through the filter.

In the cases where there is no room after the filter floss, I rap bio-balls or similar materials in the wal-mart floss, so I can easily throw the floss, but keep the bacteria on the bio-balls or ceramic stars.

SO , if you only have one floss pad in that filter of yours, I would try and come up with an alternative(like bio-max wrapped in floss ) so you can just rinse that foam.pad real clean and just stick it back in there. If you don't, you will rinse away your bacteria, and you will most likely get an ammonia/nitrIte spike until it reastablished.

If you have two floss pads, you can easily rotate which one gets cleaned. (I still would get a backup media you never have to touch)
-=added=-  If you have a bio-wheel filter, don't even worry about the floss, just replace it or rinse it.

This comes from someone who used carbon blindly for many years, until I found the web sites, with the people who passed on their ways to me.

Sorry for the long post. 8)
 

equinom

Large Fish
Oct 22, 2002
386
0
0
The Blue Planet
#5
Thanks for the timely response.   *thumbsupsmiley*
I thought I remembered reading a post that said something about having a cultered BioWheel and using just floss.  Nice to know I am not crazy!