S.O.F. - Save Our FISH!

[Ravenstar]

I'm pretty new to aquarism, and am the proud owner of 3 male bettas. I started with one, and they sort of grew on me. :3 The first one I bought isn't doing so well, however. He lived for a good while in this tiny glass bowl before I bought him, and I gave him a 2.5G tank of his own a few days after I brought him home. A few months down the line, I bought another fish and housed them in the same tank (a "2.5G All-glass mini-bow" with a divider, of course). They flared and had a jolly time, and everybody was happy. Then my first fish (Hoku) suddenly couldn't swim quite right...I determined it was SBD, and tried the peas and fasting, the salt, the blah blah blah (I've been on a LOT of forums lately). It never went away. He seemed fine enough, still ate like a little pig and everything, just was a floater. Then he got really sick. He became lethargic and just anchored under some plants and sat there all day. Then I noticed his tail fin was dark and shredded-looking at the ends...what every forum told me was fin-rot. So I moved him to a 2.5G hospital tank earlier this week and have put him on Maracyn 1 and 2, with aquarium salt and water conditioner as always. I've always been meticulous with water temperature and changes...but I also bought some test kits and found that in the original tank, the ammonia was about 4ppm. I've been working to fix that, and now it's down to about .75ppm...but I'm worried about Hoku. The Maracyns have helped the fin-rot it looks like, but now he'll randomly dart around the tank and crash into walls, he was "sitting" at the bottom on his tail fin with his nose pointing up for a long while today, and his gills are discolored...kind of a silvery-gray (he's a royal blue VT). I don't see white patches anywhere on him or the tank, other than slight ammonia levels everything's fine water-wise, it's not velvet or dropsy...I just don't know what to do with this fish any more. I recently purchased a third, who's still in his isolation tank because I'm afraid to introduce him to the main tank before I fix the water. But what should I do for Hoku? Please help!

(Sorry for the novel, but I figured the more info the better.)

Ravenstar

 

[PerenGee]

Hello and Welcome Ravenstar!

I'm just curious, what kind of divider did you have between the two bettas in the same tank? I've read before that if a betta gets stressed enough he will nibble on his own tail. This could account for the rot.

It also sounds like your tanks aren't cycled AT ALL. MissFishy has a good site (CLICK HERE) with info on it about cycling tanks. It'd be best to read up on that. So, on top of the males going at it creating stress, the very high ammonia would be enough to really stress them out.

It'll take time for his tail to heal, and he's probably still stressed out which would explain the change in color. And you say the hospital tank has slight ammonia levels? It's not cycled either, which doesn't make for a very good place of recovery. For the time being, work with what you have and do some reading up on cycling so you can help your fish get through it.

Honestly, I'm not sure what to say about the 3rd betta. Sounds like there isn't any room for him in the 2.5 gallon anyway. 2.5 gallons is a small space for only ONE betta, not to mention two or even three. I would take back the third and save him from the cycling period. It sounds like you're very dedicated, and that's good, so focus your efforts on the sick betta and the one who's in the original tank. And sorry if this is a lot or comes off a little harsh, but I'm just trying to help you help your fish. And let me tell you what, I have a friend of a friend who STILL has his betta in that little cup from the store a whole year after buying him. So you're doing alright, just gotta do some more reading and work and things will be fine.

 

[MissFishy]

Hi raven, it sounds like you are trying to do the best you can for your fish. Typically when a betta has a "shredded" tail, it means he has been chewing it out of stress. Housing two bettas in a 2.5 isn't really a good idea and even with a divider was likely very stressful, not to mention the cycling of your tank. To fix this I would suggest melafix and a rise in temperature plus taking away any stress.

Unfortunately, ammonia poisoning damage can be permanent for fish. Bettas can survive longer periods of time uncycled tanks since they breath air from the surface, but the ammonia will soon "burn" their gills. Another thing about those 2.5g that I've seen is that the filters they come with are too strong of currents for the fish. Bettas really need quiet heated water as they aren't strong swimmers.

 

[Ravenstar]

Hmmm

Thanks for your inputs so far. It's true, I haven't cycled the tanks since I only just found out about cycling a few weeks ago ^^; What kind of filter should I get? I've read that carbon is probably a bit too diesel for right now and so small a tank, and something about a sponge filter? Also that under-gravel filters are no good? I could probably get some gravel from a friend who has certainly cycled her tanks...how would that help me jump-start the cycling process?

I feel so bad for my poor fishies! I wish there were more knowledgeable sellers out there that could help those of us who care about our babies to be more prepared. Oh well, you learn and you do what you can!

 

[PerenGee]

I feel so bad for my poor fishies! I wish there were more knowledgeable sellers out there that could help those of us who care about our babies to be more prepared. Oh well, you learn and you do what you can!

Hmm, knowledgeable sellers. That's a tricky combination, the seller always seems to come first, leaving you up to the task to make up for the mistake they should have stopped you from making.

I personally don't know too much about the filters available for tanks that small. Maybe upgrade to something a tad bigger? Good luck either way!

 

[MissFishy]

Take a look at the link in my signature. Read up on cycling a tank and how to "seed" a tank so it is cycled.

 

[Ravenstar]

I'd like to thank everybody for your input on helping me care for my betta Hoku. He's been medicated and loved, but he's really not looking too well, and I'm wondering if it's old age as well as whatever else he's got. He's losing his color in several places, mainly his head and his underside fins (anal and I forget the other one's name...), and he no longer eats. I thought before that he'd be fine since he still ate like a pig, but I'm fearful that whatever's wrong is just too far gone for me to bring him back with the resources available to me. The idea of putting him down is heartbreaking, but I hate to see him faring so poorly...any suggestions?

 

[homebunnyj]

I hope you aren't considering giving up on fishkeeping. This is just a setback.

It's important to test the water in your hospital tank to make sure your sick fish has the best chance to get better. It may be too late for him, but even if it is, you can learn from this experience and help your other fish to live long and healthy lives. **You must keep the ammonia and nitrite levels below 1.0 in all your tanks to keep your fish from becoming ill.**

If you have to euthanize him, don't flush him. Make it a quick death. Those with strong enough stomachs cut off the fish's head for an instant, nearly painless death. I have my son come over and do this for me; I can't do it myself.

Here's a good filter for tanks under three gallons: Nano Hang-On Filter - Clear

Have you read Miss Fishy's info on establishing the nitrogen cycle in your tanks? It really is very important.

If you plan to continue to keep fish, you need to get test kits for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Install your filter of choice, and begin testing the water for ammonia and nitrite. If the reading for either is over 1.0, do enough of a water change to get it down below that figure. Be sure to match water temp and to use dechlorinator when you do the water change.

If your tank wasn't cycled, you will see ammonia rise continually for a while, necessitating frequent water changes to keep toxicity down, then you will see it subside and nitrite rise and peak. Once that happens you will see them both stabilize at 0 and you will then need to test for nitrates. Whenever nitrates are above 20 you'll need to change the water. Nitrates are the end product of the waste process and water changes are the way to rid your tank of them. If your tank has current readings of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, it is partially cycled. You'll still need to test until it stabilizes. Don't change out the filter pads or the bio-wheel, as the beneficial bacteria grow there. If the filter pad gets clogged, swish it in some used tank water at water change time and put it back into the filter. You can cut a slit in most types to dump out the used-up carbon.

Having two male bettas where they can constantly see each other is very stressful to them. They flare to scare away rivals. Imagine if you spent all your daylight hours patrolling your home's perimeters with a baseball bat to fend off intruders who were coming to take your mate away from you. (There's no female betta there, but male bettas treat their territory like that, as they build the nests, attract the females to their nest, and protect the young. After spawning he chases her away.) They need to have some rest. Stress can contribute to illness in fish, just as in humans. I recommend letting each betta have his own tank. You could place them side by side with something in between to keep them from seeing each other, and you could remove it for short periods of time to view the flaring behavior.

Good luck with your bettas. They're fascinating fish.