sand from the beach?

Feb 7, 2008
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#1
Hey guys, so I was at the pet store today, decided on making my 55g tank into salt water. Would it be ok if I went down to the beach and grabbed some sand? It's like $40 a bag at the pet store. I would probably need like 2 or 3 bags for my tank. Thanks, Nick
 

ccso139

Small Fish
Feb 1, 2008
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#5
I would probably need like 2 or 3 bags for my tank. Thanks, Nick
If you want to do a DSB, you will need around 100 pounds of sand. I know this because I just had to take back 140 pounds because I thought that I needed 200 pounds..... :) Long story short---don't believe what sellers on ebay tell you that you will need w/o double checking!!!
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#6
well I have read about 1-1.5 lbs per gallon which is right on with what you just said. I was looking in the store and I think they were 50lbs bags, I can't remember. Im going there tomorrow to grab some salt. The sand Im using is commanly used with sand blasting. I actually have a little because I own a sandblaster. There is a place up the street from me that sells 50 lb bags for like $11 each. Im just not sure if this is good to use with salt water tanks. I know some people use this type of sand with freshwater tanks. The other option i hear is acceptable is playbox sand from the hardware store, is this sound right?
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#9
So which sand is the best for a 55 gal tank? Ideally I would like the black sand but if not I like that really fine whitish/brown sand...I just don't want to make an expensive mistake. I also just bought a bucket of Instant Ocean for $42 make up to 160 gal of water...good deal/product? Thanks! Nick
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
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NE Indiana
#10
Instant Ocean is a good inexpensive salt mix, it may be a little light on the calcium side for some reef tanks but at this stage of your tank it is a good deal. Look at any of the oolite sands which are calcium carbonate based. Such as bahama oolite which you can usually buy dry at not too bad a price. Just don't waste money on buying live sand in the bags it will become live on it's own and you can seed it with a cup o r two from a fellow reefer.
 

Joe Fish

Superstar Fish
Apr 21, 2006
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josy.isa-geek.com
#11
Reef crystals is a little better than instant ocean it has more calcium and other minerals. the type of sand should be based on the type of fish you want to keep. bottom dwellers need a softer sand. i think the ideal size is 1.7mm, but don't remember.
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#12
Thanks guys! thats a great help. Im probably going to get a few clown fish because come on, who doesn't want Nemo in their tank? Haha. I don't think im going to make a reef tank, but I like the coral/fish tanks.

Right now I need some sand for the bottom, media for my two filters (I have a Fluval 104 which is too small for the tank but Im also going to run a AquaClear 500), I just bought the salt, water heater and API Master Salt Water test kit from Ebay so I should have that by the weekend. Im hoping to get the ball rolling by Saturday. I want to test the water and hopefully be able to toss a few fish in by the following week. I was even thinking of starting with some plants and coral first but not too sure how to maintain those yet. Im still very new to this so It's def a learning process. I have been overwhelmed with information in the last week. So far I believe im off to a pretty good start. That should be all I need to start right? I just wanna make sure my water conditions are perfect before I start killing fish and litterally flush my money down the toilet.
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
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#13
Well you really need to do some more research and make notes of certain aspects of saltwater husbandry.

1. don't waste money of filter media. read the stickies etc. Live rock provides the biological filter you need. Especially if you are thinking of corals down the road. Most mechanical filters with media become nitrate traps over time and most coral reef tanks must maintain low as possible nitrate readings.

2. Let your tank cycle properly (WITHOUT FISH) and the expectation of placing fish in the tank in a couple of weeks is both unrealistic and probably foolhardy. A proper cycle is necessary to ensure that the substrate and live rock are well populated with beneficial bacteria. You can't rush this and to do so is cruel to any livestock you add.

3. A few clownfish is a mistake, depending on the size of your tank you should only introduce 1 clown and perhaps if your tank is large enough a pair. Only one pair per tank and only one species per tank otherwise you are buying problems. Clowns are very territorial and protective and some are downright mean.....such as maroons and clarkiis.

4. Again, do not cycle your tank with damsels. They become extremely territorial and will limit you to any future additions unless you remove them which is a difficult at best task to accomplish once your tank is set up.

5. Figure out what your end tank will look like and stock it and plan it accordingly now.
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#14
ok, I have been doing some more research and decided that I will do this in this order...please let me know if Im on the right page and forgive me for all my questions. I just want to go about this the right way.

1.) drain my tank and remove all the old gravel. (I just filled it up the other day so its not even dirty or anything.)

2.) Buy some sand. I have been thinking about the CaribSea Tropic Isle Tahitian Moon Sand or pink Fiji Sand Oolite. That decision is based on which color I decide on. (I wanted black but have seen many tanks with the lighter color sand and it looks great)

3.) Fill the 55g tank with water and disolve the 27.5 cups of Instant Ocean into the water.

4.) Install the heater and get the water temp to about 75-80 degrees.

This is sort of where im stuck. How do you maintain good water levels such as pH and amonia with no pumps running? I see they have powerheads pretty cheap and I know these are nessessary for the coral and the live rock, both of which im planning on putting in. I was also watching a video on YouTube with a tank running one continous system, with pumps and skimmers (not really familiar with this part of the process)

I know that once the pumps and skimmer is in place and all the water levels are correct it is time to buy the live rock. I was thinking of going with the Fiji live rock. The look of it really appeals to me. I have read that cured is better but more money and the uncured is ok because it will seed itself. (obviously more time consumming which is ok by me)

Once the live rock has taken to the water I think at that point I would add in the corals...correct?

I know I cannot add live stock before the corals because they spike the amonia levels.

After doing this research I have realized that I will probably not have fish in the tank for a good 4-5 months. This is ok because I know in the end I will have a great tank. Right now im just trying to get all the pieces in order before I fill it up.

I guess the main help im looking for now is the help with proper powerheads and skimmer system for this 55 g tank...Thank you all so much for the help.
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
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NE Indiana
#15
Okay now you are sounding like a reefer.

Empty the tank ......

at this point most people would add the live rock and then the sand to help stabilize the rock.....cured or uncured at this point doesn't matter much as the rock can cycle your tank at the same time it cures. I would do it in this order. if you can't afford all the rock you will need about 75-80 lbs preferably more then I would add the sand then mix your saltwater outisde the tank and add to after mixing for 24 hours with a powerhead to areate it and ensure it is well mixed and ages to give it time to stabilize. Or you could add fresh r/o water to the tank and mix the salt in the tank....then next day add the sand, be prepared for a sandstorm.....then let this all settle which will take a couple of days minimum....it will settle as the sand becomes weighted down with beneficial bacteria.....this silt is good as it helps the deep sand bed in the long run. (don't rinse the sand)

You will need power heads in the tank to create movement and flow which are important in saltwater to provide oxygenation through surface agitation. I suggest a couple of Korallia 3's one on each end pointed towards mid center to create randomness of the flow.

Okay now you have sand, water, and water movement. You should have rock but if you don't you can add it later just that if you add it later it must be cured or you will have another cycle. If no rock you need something to start your cycle which can be a cocktail shrimp or even some fish food dropped in the tank will start it. At this point start measuring your water parameters, specific gravity, temp, ph, ammonia....and once the ammonia spikes start measuring for nitrites....when both ammonia and nitrites are zero you can add a cleanup crew of snails......and in a few weeks add your first livestock. Livestock and corals(provided you have sufficient light for the later) can be added gradually so as not to spike your system into another cycle. Just add things slowly and then let it adjust before adding more. Your system needs to adjust each time for added bioload. Above all remember nothing good happens quickly in saltwater only bad things
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#16
Wow! this is waaay more involved than I origionally thought. The more involved it gets the more interested I get. I planned on waiting for the live rock but I can splurge a few hundred and get that and the sand at the same time.

So, Just to clarify...

when you say...

"at this point most people would add the live rock and then the sand to help stabilize the rock.....cured or uncured at this point doesn't matter much as the rock can cycle your tank at the same time it cures. I would do it in this order."

I am assuming before this step I filled the tank, mixed the salt in the tank, let it run for 24 hours with the power heads and brought it up to the correct temp? If so, I just dump the sand into the tank on top of the rocks? The powerhead would just probably clean them off right?

Also, Im a little confused about the water. Can I just use the water from my garden hose, or do I have to buy special water?

sorry...I really do appreciate all the help.:)
 

Joe Fish

Superstar Fish
Apr 21, 2006
2,126
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Penn State
josy.isa-geek.com
#17
Yes, since the tank is empty you will be fine with mixing the salt in there. Bring it up to temp and keep the water moving. Once you put the sand in the tank will be cloudy but will clear itself in a few days. If you turn the powerheads off it might clear faster, but i don't think a day or two more really matters. It's going to be a little while before you can add anything anyway.

Tap water can be used, but I woudn't recommed it. Some people have very good tap water while others do not. This is where a RO/DI system comes into play. You can also buy already mixed water from a LFS or just go by culligan water. Get a test kit and test your tap water. In my opinion it's just a safer bet to not use it.
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
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NE Indiana
#18
To second Joe, I wouldn't recommend you use tap water unless you have it tested for disolved solids such as heavy metals, chloramine, chlorine, copper,phosphates etc.....rather than go to that much trouble just go to a water distriibutor and buy a bunch of 5 gallon jugs for your initial fill. Fill up the tank and mix in the salt mix to an sg of about 1.025. Let this mix overnight and heat it to your temp you want. Then add your live rock placing it on the bottom or some people place it on eggcrate (light diffuser with the small squares, you can buy a sheet at Lowes or Home Depot for about $10) Once you have your aquascape set up then add your sand and the best way to do this is to lower the bag into the water and slowly slide the now wet sand out of the bag with as little disturbance as possible to reduce the sandstorm that is inevitable. Let this all settle for 24-48hours then start up the powerheads for movement......The rock should jump start your cycle and you should then start testing......try not to get the sand on the rock if you can, if you do, get a turkey baster to blow it off afterwards and once the dust settles you will want to squirt them off as the dust will settle on everything in the tank......the bacteria off the rock will help it settle out.

As for aquascape look at pictures of peoples tanks to gain a unique set up. Remember to leave enough room between the rock and the glass to accomodate a magnet cleaner.....and room for water movement around the rock. Fish like caves and tunnels and places to hide. Good luck and we are awaiting pictures.
 

Feb 7, 2008
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#19
Thanks so much! You guys have been so helpful in planning my tank set up. I was browsing Craigslist and found a pretty decent deal on a whole tank. I figured I would need about 125 lbs of live rock and that would cost me right around $400 with shipping. This kid has about 150lbs of live rock, a few fish, an 85 gallon tank, stand with canopy, 5 powerheads, some coral, a whole filtration system with protein skimmer and much more all for $1000. It's more money then I initally wanted to invest at this time but I think in the long run it could be a great savings. It will also allow me to sell what is left over and get some of that money back so for under $1000 I will have a pretty nice setup.

Either way, I will post pics of my project as it comes...thanks for all the help! It is very much appreciated...

Nick
 

Lorna

Elite Fish
Mar 3, 2005
3,082
4
0
NE Indiana
#20
an 85g bowfront is a great size for a starter. In saltwater it is always better to go big as you can first time out as it is much easier to stabilize a large volume of water as any swings in parameters take a bit longer and can be corrected easier than with a small volume. This sounds like a great set up and a good price, just the rock is a good deal, just make sure he never treated the tank with copper meds and you should be okay, any indication of a lot of algae ie, hair algae or such could indicate that he has high nitrates/phosphates and this could be in the rock but just running a phosphate scrubber should take care of it. The live rock/skimmer and good substrate will be a great start. send pics.