Some fairly simple questions

[evilputty]

Picked myself up a 20gH today as it fits perfectly on the side of my desk.

Few questions i got only because my other fish tanks were already configured

1. How low should the intake tube be from the bottom of the tank to my filter?
2. I want to make this tank planted and am curious about what substrate to use? I would like a sandy bottom but should i use one of the enriched substrates beneath this?
3. The tank came with a hood+fluorescent light rated at (15W T8 8000K) is this sufficient?
4. Where should i place the thermometer on the tank in relation to the substrate?
5. Stocking options - would prefer smaller fish over a few larger.

Not really in a hurry just want to take my time with this tank.

 

[Doomhed]

#1- depends on the type of filter you are using. Hang on back filters have thier own length you cant control.

#2- many people use aquarium soil topped with fluorite and sand

#3- I heard 2 watts per gallon, but I havent done much with plants

#4- thermometer should be the stick on the glass type and placed midrange in the tank to give you a solid idea of temp, on the opposite wall from the heater

#5- I would recommend a school of platies and some corydoras. They are my favorite choice because of the massive number of colors available for platies and corys are just the cutest little things in any planted tank.

 

[sushi*roll]

whats 20gH?? gallons I'll assume.
1. As far as I know you can't adjust such things (at least not with any filters I've ever owned), so I'm sorry I can't help with this one.
2. Crushed coral or shells and certain kinds of gravel will create a high pH and high carbonate hardness, which is not good for aquarium plants. On the other hand low pH and very soft water can cause root-rot, you should stick to natural substrates, sand would probably be fine.
3. Do you mean sufficient for plants to grow?? because this I don't know.
4.Is your thermometer completly submersable or not?? If you cant fully submerge it then really your only other option is to let it hang on the back/side of the tank. If it's a waterproof one then have at 'er. I don't think where you position the thermometer is really a crutial part of fish care lol.
5. This is my favourite part If you wanted to go with smaller fish you could probably get away with more if you buy schooling fish (rummynose tetras, zebra danios, congo tetras, hatchet fish, DWARF gouramis/not the regular ones or you should only keep 1 per 10 G tank).

 

[sushi*roll]

i got thermometer mixed up with heater in your 4th question lol sorry 'bout that.

 

[sushi*roll]

platys are nice, so are mollies, except mollies have babies wayyyy easier than platys do lol (but if you don't want babies don't worry, the mollies wil eat their fry).

 

[bassbonediva]

Since everyone else answered your other questions rather nicely (except the plants question...you can get away with 1 watt per gallon with a lot of your low- to medium-light plants...Petsmart has their plants marked as to what light level they need to be healthiest), I can suggest some fishes! I also have a 20gH. At the moment it has one male betta, five platies (three sunset coral dwarfs, one marigold variatus, and one dawn/parrot), one male guppy, three otocinclus catfish and one rubberlip pleco. It's kind of a hodge-podge right now because I'm in the midst of setting up a bigger community tank and everyone had to be moved to a new home after I tore down my 46gal to make way for the new tank. Anywho, the ultimate stocking list on this tank is:
2x German blue rams (or Bolivian butterfly rams...still haven't decided)
1x male betta
5x platies
2x male guppies (I have a juvenile male that will be moved to the 20gH soon)
5x pygmy cories
3x otocinclus catfish

You could also play around with a school of neons and a school of blue tetras, or maybe some flame (Von Rio) tetras and some glass bloodfin tetras.