something wrong with lionfish
- Thread starter fonzie
- Start date
disease database created by: eheim-uk.com
White Spot (Ichthyophthirius)
Velvet (Oodinium)
Mouth Fungus (Columnaris)
Neon Disease (Plistophora)
Digenetic Flukes (Metacercaria)
Tapeworm Larvae (Cestoda)
Costia
Chilodonella, Trichodina
Ph Extremes
Red Pest (Bacterial)
Fin Rot (Bacterial)
Ichthyosporidium
Pop-Eye (Exophthalmia)
Toxins
Hexamita (Hole in the Head)
Argulus, Ergasilus Etc
Gyrodactylus Monogenetic Flukes
Nematodes
Lymphocystsis
Glugea, Henneguya
Tuberculosis
Genetics
Vitamin Deficiency
Tank too Cold or Hot
Trynoplasma
Swim Bladder Disease
Oxygen Deficiency, Excess Co2
Dropsy (Aeromonas)
Infection of scales and skin (Bacterial)
How to avoid Problems
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White Spot (Ichthyophthirius)
A parasite that we will all encounter whilst keeping fish. As an adult it is embedded in the skin of the fish causing irritation, your fish will probably be glancing off rocks and plants to alleviate the itching.
The parasite will feed and grow on the blood and skin cells of its host for a few days until it is fully grown. It then bores its way out of the skin and drops off into the substrate, it then forms a cyst which then goes through rapid cell division until about 1000 young are released into the water to start the whole process again.The whole process takes just five days at 27C.
There are cases where the parasite actually lies dormant in the skin of the fish and will not emerge until it is ready, making eradication quite difficult.
The best time to kill them is when they are free swimming and looking for a host. Treatment must be external and aimed at the free swimming stage hence the need to dose again after a few days, suitable cures are widely available.
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Velvet (Oodinium)
Velvet is caused by a dinoflagellate, classified by some as an alga because it carries Chlorophyll. There are two main species, Oodinium limmneticum and Oodinium pillularis. The free swimming stage of Velvet settles on the skin and gills of the fish, adhering at first by its long flagellum, later putting out pseudopodia, (similar to fingers) that penetrate the skin and give it a very firm grip.
Velvet has a similar life cycle to White spot, feeding and becoming a cyst it produces upward of 200 young before dropping off. The appearance is similar to gold or brown dust over the body and fins which at times may appear to move. Symptoms are similar to White spot, glancing off rocks etc.
As Velvet is highly contagious it is important to eradicate this problem as soon as possible. Treatment is aimed at the free swimming stage and there are good cures available from your local store.Copper sulphate can be used at a concentration of 0.2 mg per litre or 0.2 ppm. This should be repeated after 3 days to ensure eradication.
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Mouth Fungus (Columnaris)
Although Columnaris resembles fungus it is in fact a Bacterium. It is usually found just around the mouth area, rarely spreading. The first signs are a thin white line around the lips, which then grows into white or grey short tufts that resemble fungus. Early treatment is needed if you are going to save the fish's life, due to the toxins released and the fact that the fish can not feed.
The best and most effective cure is to use Anti-Biotic. Penicillin is very effective at 10.000 units per litre, with a second dose after two days. Remember to remove all filtration whilst dosing to avoid killing the beneficial bacteria.
this is a possibility i just found it in our disease data base it is also possible he just disloacted his jaw
Brahm
White Spot (Ichthyophthirius)
Velvet (Oodinium)
Mouth Fungus (Columnaris)
Neon Disease (Plistophora)
Digenetic Flukes (Metacercaria)
Tapeworm Larvae (Cestoda)
Costia
Chilodonella, Trichodina
Ph Extremes
Red Pest (Bacterial)
Fin Rot (Bacterial)
Ichthyosporidium
Pop-Eye (Exophthalmia)
Toxins
Hexamita (Hole in the Head)
Argulus, Ergasilus Etc
Gyrodactylus Monogenetic Flukes
Nematodes
Lymphocystsis
Glugea, Henneguya
Tuberculosis
Genetics
Vitamin Deficiency
Tank too Cold or Hot
Trynoplasma
Swim Bladder Disease
Oxygen Deficiency, Excess Co2
Dropsy (Aeromonas)
Infection of scales and skin (Bacterial)
How to avoid Problems
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
White Spot (Ichthyophthirius)
A parasite that we will all encounter whilst keeping fish. As an adult it is embedded in the skin of the fish causing irritation, your fish will probably be glancing off rocks and plants to alleviate the itching.
The parasite will feed and grow on the blood and skin cells of its host for a few days until it is fully grown. It then bores its way out of the skin and drops off into the substrate, it then forms a cyst which then goes through rapid cell division until about 1000 young are released into the water to start the whole process again.The whole process takes just five days at 27C.
There are cases where the parasite actually lies dormant in the skin of the fish and will not emerge until it is ready, making eradication quite difficult.
The best time to kill them is when they are free swimming and looking for a host. Treatment must be external and aimed at the free swimming stage hence the need to dose again after a few days, suitable cures are widely available.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Velvet (Oodinium)
Velvet is caused by a dinoflagellate, classified by some as an alga because it carries Chlorophyll. There are two main species, Oodinium limmneticum and Oodinium pillularis. The free swimming stage of Velvet settles on the skin and gills of the fish, adhering at first by its long flagellum, later putting out pseudopodia, (similar to fingers) that penetrate the skin and give it a very firm grip.
Velvet has a similar life cycle to White spot, feeding and becoming a cyst it produces upward of 200 young before dropping off. The appearance is similar to gold or brown dust over the body and fins which at times may appear to move. Symptoms are similar to White spot, glancing off rocks etc.
As Velvet is highly contagious it is important to eradicate this problem as soon as possible. Treatment is aimed at the free swimming stage and there are good cures available from your local store.Copper sulphate can be used at a concentration of 0.2 mg per litre or 0.2 ppm. This should be repeated after 3 days to ensure eradication.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Mouth Fungus (Columnaris)
Although Columnaris resembles fungus it is in fact a Bacterium. It is usually found just around the mouth area, rarely spreading. The first signs are a thin white line around the lips, which then grows into white or grey short tufts that resemble fungus. Early treatment is needed if you are going to save the fish's life, due to the toxins released and the fact that the fish can not feed.
The best and most effective cure is to use Anti-Biotic. Penicillin is very effective at 10.000 units per litre, with a second dose after two days. Remember to remove all filtration whilst dosing to avoid killing the beneficial bacteria.
this is a possibility i just found it in our disease data base it is also possible he just disloacted his jaw
Brahm
Today I discovered he can open his mouth but he lost his sucking ability that he had before.He used to suck the food in but for now I have to open his with a thin plastic stick with the krill at the end and put it in his mouth,when I did this I noticed he could suck it in anymore because sometimes the krill would float away. He used to go to the krill saveagely before but now he doesn't.
well i was doing some reading in one of my magazines and came across an article on lionfish and thought i would see if there were any solutions to your problem, there were a couple general treatment options
1. copper based medication, this would be my last choice,
2.fresh water dip, this is a good method i use it when ever i have problems, you dip the fish in fresh water with similiar ph and temp so not to cause shock for a period of 2-8 min, some fish are more sensitive than others so just monitor your lion and be careful,
3. lion fish can also be kept at a low salintiy for a long period of time(days or weeks) the apropriate salinty would be 1.012,
hope this helped
Brahm
1. copper based medication, this would be my last choice,
2.fresh water dip, this is a good method i use it when ever i have problems, you dip the fish in fresh water with similiar ph and temp so not to cause shock for a period of 2-8 min, some fish are more sensitive than others so just monitor your lion and be careful,
3. lion fish can also be kept at a low salintiy for a long period of time(days or weeks) the apropriate salinty would be 1.012,
hope this helped
Brahm
dude, without test kits, you're kinda running blind and cant properly diagnose the problem--if u have a FOWLR setup, here are the kits i would recommend:
high range pH (7.5-8.5ish)
nitrite
nitrate
maybe kits for kH, etc. if u are using any supplements or anything like that
if your pH is too low, u can buy a pH buffer, or there are common household chemicals u can use to raise it (cant remember em though)
high range pH (7.5-8.5ish)
nitrite
nitrate
maybe kits for kH, etc. if u are using any supplements or anything like that
if your pH is too low, u can buy a pH buffer, or there are common household chemicals u can use to raise it (cant remember em though)