Submerging thermostat?
- Thread starter lilcam
- Start date
If you don't have large temperature fluctuations in the room 200W is adequate. Don't worry about submersion. As stated these are designed to do this. Personally, I carefully inspect the whole unit including the cord before using, even if brand spanking new, just in case. If there is any damage to the unit or cord or the cord insulation is damaged in any way I would not use it.
Also, placing the heater close to the filter intake or discharge will ensure circulation of the heated water and will help to heat the tank more uniformly.
One last thing, place the thermometer as far away from the heater as possible for a more accurate reading of the temperature of the tank.
Also, placing the heater close to the filter intake or discharge will ensure circulation of the heated water and will help to heat the tank more uniformly.
One last thing, place the thermometer as far away from the heater as possible for a more accurate reading of the temperature of the tank.
Actually, you haven't said where you live or where the tank is located. The wattage is based on the difference between the required tank temperature and the ambient temperature of the room that the tank is in. So long as the tank is in a warm room, 200W should be fine. Adding a second 200W for redundancy is a good move. If it's outside in an unheated garage then you might need 500W or more.
Most aquarium heaters are designed to be fully submerged, even the Ebo-Jagers that, to meet the more stringent Canadian safety laws, say not to fully submerge! It's a mad, mad world! LOL!
Most aquarium heaters are designed to be fully submerged, even the Ebo-Jagers that, to meet the more stringent Canadian safety laws, say not to fully submerge! It's a mad, mad world! LOL!
