There are many things that go into considering and actually breeding bettas. I am just a beginner myself, but have researched the topic so much that I could tell you anything about every topic on betta breeding. I suggest anyone thinking about breeding bettas do the same. Anyway, here are some things that are a MUST have with betta spawning.
*Food for the fry- People have tried to raise fry on non-live foods, but have reported that it was unsuccessful. You will NEED microworms (vinegar eels can be fed with microworms or as a substitute for them) and Baby Brine Shrimp (newly hatched sea monkeys). You will need to get these cultures a MONTH in advance so you can subculture them into a bunch of established cultures.
*Food for conditioning the pair- A conditioned pair means fry that are in good condition. The better the food, the better the outcome. I condition with freeze dried shrimp and bloodworms, along with pellets.
*Thermometer and Heater- Water should be set at 80*F. Do not let the temperature do darastic changes, or it will kill your fry. The heater should be 5 watts/gallon (ie. if you have a 5 gallon, it should be a 25 watt heater).
*A spawning tank- It doesn't matter the size. I have had a pair in a 20 gallon with no luck, and I have had a pair spawn in a 1 gallon bowl. The tank should be filled with 4-6 inches of dechlorinated water.
*Stress Zyme, biospira, or a seasoned sponge filter- The tank needs to have benefitial bacteria so it will not have ammonia or nitrite spikes. If you are not using a sponge filter add an airstone after the fry are free swimming to prevent belly sliders (swim bladder problems).
*Hiding spaces for the female- The female will need to have a break from the male after spawning is over, and during the "get-to-know you" phase at the beginning of spawning.
*An aquarium hood- Can be made from a store-bought hood, plastic wrap, or glass cut to fit the hood. This is to keep the air warm when fry take their first breath. If the air is colder than the water, the fry will die of pnemonia.
*Bubblenest shelter- A styrofoam cup, plant (fake or real), Almond Leaf, yellow styrofoam (the kind meat comes on at the store), plastic canvas, or bubble wrap can be used to prevent the bubblenest from popping.
Extras:
*Real plants to produce infurosia (a microscopic food that will feed hungry fry for the first few days).
*Grindle worms for feeding older fry (juvies)
*Aquarium Light- Keeps the air warm for the fry and allows the male to view the eggs easier. Light should be available to the tank like normal, but this is just reasurance.
Anything else anyone wants to add go ahead....
~Alexa~
*Food for the fry- People have tried to raise fry on non-live foods, but have reported that it was unsuccessful. You will NEED microworms (vinegar eels can be fed with microworms or as a substitute for them) and Baby Brine Shrimp (newly hatched sea monkeys). You will need to get these cultures a MONTH in advance so you can subculture them into a bunch of established cultures.
*Food for conditioning the pair- A conditioned pair means fry that are in good condition. The better the food, the better the outcome. I condition with freeze dried shrimp and bloodworms, along with pellets.
*Thermometer and Heater- Water should be set at 80*F. Do not let the temperature do darastic changes, or it will kill your fry. The heater should be 5 watts/gallon (ie. if you have a 5 gallon, it should be a 25 watt heater).
*A spawning tank- It doesn't matter the size. I have had a pair in a 20 gallon with no luck, and I have had a pair spawn in a 1 gallon bowl. The tank should be filled with 4-6 inches of dechlorinated water.
*Stress Zyme, biospira, or a seasoned sponge filter- The tank needs to have benefitial bacteria so it will not have ammonia or nitrite spikes. If you are not using a sponge filter add an airstone after the fry are free swimming to prevent belly sliders (swim bladder problems).
*Hiding spaces for the female- The female will need to have a break from the male after spawning is over, and during the "get-to-know you" phase at the beginning of spawning.
*An aquarium hood- Can be made from a store-bought hood, plastic wrap, or glass cut to fit the hood. This is to keep the air warm when fry take their first breath. If the air is colder than the water, the fry will die of pnemonia.
*Bubblenest shelter- A styrofoam cup, plant (fake or real), Almond Leaf, yellow styrofoam (the kind meat comes on at the store), plastic canvas, or bubble wrap can be used to prevent the bubblenest from popping.
Extras:
*Real plants to produce infurosia (a microscopic food that will feed hungry fry for the first few days).
*Grindle worms for feeding older fry (juvies)
*Aquarium Light- Keeps the air warm for the fry and allows the male to view the eggs easier. Light should be available to the tank like normal, but this is just reasurance.
Anything else anyone wants to add go ahead....
~Alexa~
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Great job!
