UGF
- Thread starter IvannaFish
- Start date
I say if it is working for you keep it. Don't put the fish through the stress of taking their
tank apart. Its true that ugf are hard on live plants for the ovious reason that they
suck water through the gravel and srews up the roots. (so yes your orginal question was
finally answered. Water goes down through the gravel then out the top of your two
corners, its setup perfectly.) But like you said if your tank has been setup for two years
with no problems don't fix what aint broken. And yes two HOB powerfilter penguins
should be okay with your tank. Just read what they rated for and apply logic. If you
have a 105 gal tank, and you have two filters rated for 30-60 gals each, your in teh
golden zone, you can always apply more filtration as long as yoru fishes dont mind the
current in the tank.
tank apart. Its true that ugf are hard on live plants for the ovious reason that they
suck water through the gravel and srews up the roots. (so yes your orginal question was
finally answered. Water goes down through the gravel then out the top of your two
corners, its setup perfectly.) But like you said if your tank has been setup for two years
with no problems don't fix what aint broken. And yes two HOB powerfilter penguins
should be okay with your tank. Just read what they rated for and apply logic. If you
have a 105 gal tank, and you have two filters rated for 30-60 gals each, your in teh
golden zone, you can always apply more filtration as long as yoru fishes dont mind the
current in the tank.
Removing UGF's can be a messy enterprise, so don't bother unless you plan on re-decorating your tank.
As far as water direction, upflow or downflow really does not make a big difference, its mostly powerheads vs. air-stone pumps. Powerheads make the water flow faster and the UGF more efficient.
Your 2 HOBS do the most of the mechanical filtration work, and likely the biological too because they have more air-flow than the UFG plates.
I'd say, leave it be. UGF's work as designed, just keep them clean.
As far as water direction, upflow or downflow really does not make a big difference, its mostly powerheads vs. air-stone pumps. Powerheads make the water flow faster and the UGF more efficient.
Your 2 HOBS do the most of the mechanical filtration work, and likely the biological too because they have more air-flow than the UFG plates.
I'd say, leave it be. UGF's work as designed, just keep them clean.
Thanks everyone. I feel a lot better about the tank now. I was getting a little worried. I just recently purchased a fire eel and want to make sure that all is well for her. Another question...Anyone know how often I should feed her. She isn't just nocturnal. She swims around all the time. I feed her frozen bloodworm gumdrops and she eats them whole 3 and 4 one after the other and still acts like she is starving. I have tried to add variety to her diet but she refuses tubifex, flake, and even grubs. I don't know what else to do? I don't want to over feed her nor do I want to make a mistake by only feeding her bloodworms. Any suggestions on this one? She is about 18" if this makes a difference
Fire Eel
Email this page To a Friend! Described by Bleeker in 1850, the Fire Eel is properly known as the Mastacembelus erythrotaenia . Found in Southeast Asia, it can obtain an overall length of 39”. Possessing an elongated body with a flattened tail and pointy-head, the Fire Eel has a dark black background with vivid horizontal red stripes. Naturally a nocturnal predator, the Fire Eel prefers a sandy bottom with lots of plants and rocky hiding places. Only smaller juveniles will tolerate each other, they should be kept singly as they mature. They prefer meaty foods, bloodworms, small worms/insects and krill. They will eat most prepared foods, especially sinking pellets. The bright red stripes are quite striking and often become more intense as the fish grows larger. You will need a good, completely covered top to ensure the Fire Eel does not accidentally try to migrate out of the aquarium.
maybe this will help?
Email this page To a Friend! Described by Bleeker in 1850, the Fire Eel is properly known as the Mastacembelus erythrotaenia . Found in Southeast Asia, it can obtain an overall length of 39”. Possessing an elongated body with a flattened tail and pointy-head, the Fire Eel has a dark black background with vivid horizontal red stripes. Naturally a nocturnal predator, the Fire Eel prefers a sandy bottom with lots of plants and rocky hiding places. Only smaller juveniles will tolerate each other, they should be kept singly as they mature. They prefer meaty foods, bloodworms, small worms/insects and krill. They will eat most prepared foods, especially sinking pellets. The bright red stripes are quite striking and often become more intense as the fish grows larger. You will need a good, completely covered top to ensure the Fire Eel does not accidentally try to migrate out of the aquarium.
maybe this will help?