water changes...options...
- Thread starter cybersymes
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I use the bucket method. This is because my tank is in my office at work (I get a lot of compliments on it 
)
It takes me 10 minutes to change 10% (2 gal bucket, couple times per week, there is a reason I only do 10% a time). Each water change is in conjunction with vacuuming the gravel. I then have to walk down the hallway and dump it in the utility closet. If I were to change more, the time would increase proportionally, i.e. 30% would be 6g and therefore be 3 trips equalling 30 minutes.
I don't see how a 40g with 30% change could take an hour, unless there were significant distances between the water source and tank. Perhaps purchase a larger bucket or a python.
I do 10% several times a week, but at that low I have to in order to keep the nitrAtes managable.
)It takes me 10 minutes to change 10% (2 gal bucket, couple times per week, there is a reason I only do 10% a time). Each water change is in conjunction with vacuuming the gravel. I then have to walk down the hallway and dump it in the utility closet. If I were to change more, the time would increase proportionally, i.e. 30% would be 6g and therefore be 3 trips equalling 30 minutes.
I don't see how a 40g with 30% change could take an hour, unless there were significant distances between the water source and tank. Perhaps purchase a larger bucket or a python.
I do 10% several times a week, but at that low I have to in order to keep the nitrAtes managable.
hey guys,,,thanks for the replies...
i knew people would wonder about the time for a 30% change...
it takes that long to heat the water to 24C...
as it's starting off at 10C from the tap...
[two buckets...6gall each]...
i have a syphon...i guess that's what you call a python...
so what about the original question...
are evey other day 10%'s...better than a weekly 30%...
i knew people would wonder about the time for a 30% change...
it takes that long to heat the water to 24C...
as it's starting off at 10C from the tap...
[two buckets...6gall each]...
i have a syphon...i guess that's what you call a python...
so what about the original question...
are evey other day 10%'s...better than a weekly 30%...
Back to the reason I only do 10%...
The water at work is milky white when I use the warm water. Because of this I use the cold water tap only. It comes out crystal. The cool water added to the tank does not affect the water temp. This is because of the low volume being added. For me this works just fine. It also allows me to spend less time, at once, in the tank stressing out the fish. I spread the water changes over the week to reduce overall stress. And so my employeer doesn't see me spending a lot of time at once working on my aquarium.
The water at work is milky white when I use the warm water. Because of this I use the cold water tap only. It comes out crystal. The cool water added to the tank does not affect the water temp. This is because of the low volume being added. For me this works just fine. It also allows me to spend less time, at once, in the tank stressing out the fish. I spread the water changes over the week to reduce overall stress. And so my employeer doesn't see me spending a lot of time at once working on my aquarium.
^^^ I totally forgot about the milky-when-warm water from when I lived in Central Illinois. Here is what I have found about milky appearance -
and here is what the Kansas City Water Department says:
So you'd be fine using this. I think most places around your area use surface water for the municipal supply (I know Charleston did), which is naturally very cold this time of year - meaning more dissolved oxygen. Like the quotes above say, the milkyness is micro o2 bubbles excaping the water because it cannot be contained in the higher temperature.
and here is what the Kansas City Water Department says:
So you'd be fine using this. I think most places around your area use surface water for the municipal supply (I know Charleston did), which is naturally very cold this time of year - meaning more dissolved oxygen. Like the quotes above say, the milkyness is micro o2 bubbles excaping the water because it cannot be contained in the higher temperature.
GIS Guy said:
Back to the reason I only do 10%...
The water at work is milky white when I use the warm water. Because of this I use the cold water tap only. It comes out crystal. The cool water added to the tank does not affect the water temp. This is because of the low volume being added. For me this works just fine. It also allows me to spend less time, at once, in the tank stressing out the fish. I spread the water changes over the week to reduce overall stress. And so my employeer doesn't see me spending a lot of time at once working on my aquarium.
The water at work is milky white when I use the warm water. Because of this I use the cold water tap only. It comes out crystal. The cool water added to the tank does not affect the water temp. This is because of the low volume being added. For me this works just fine. It also allows me to spend less time, at once, in the tank stressing out the fish. I spread the water changes over the week to reduce overall stress. And so my employeer doesn't see me spending a lot of time at once working on my aquarium.
i don't use the warm tap as it's full of debris...
dust motes and bits of krapp...
our cold water is crystal clear...and really cold...7C last nite...
[that's 'really cold' compared to the 24C i need for the tank]...
i'm heating a 4 gallon[imp] bucket with a spare tank heater...
and i'm going to do that every other night...
i like the sound of 'reducing overall stress'...
i think the nitrate levels will be more even with this method too...
fewer highs and lows...gotta be betta for the fish dudes...
all in all...best for the fish...best for me...
ps...i like your clever 'trick' with your boss...
in ireland we would say you are 'juking him rightly'...
My water is also milky. I do not mind though as it is cleared up within a matter of minutes. The python is a syphon, but a syphon is not always a python... the python is a brand and it attaches to your faucet making it incredably easy to change water. I also use the bucket method. I have a 1.5 gallon bucket and I like to change about 10-15% once a week in my 29 gallon tank. I have a small bioload that is why it is so low. Anyway, I do not know how warm 24c is in farenheit terms, but my tank is at about 76 degrees and I can pretty much match within a couple of degrees the new water straight from the tank. I would assume that your tank is within that temp range as it is pretty typical for a tropical tank. Do you heat your water with another heater in a seperate container while you do this? I think doing it the other way is much more simple and it takes me about 20 mins and that is with a 1.5 gallon bucket!!
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BTW
Great site for converting different types of measurements,
i.e. Celcius to Fahrenheit or Liters to Gallons.
Could be very useful for the forum.*twirlysmi
[B]http://www.megaconverter.com/mega2/[/B]
Great site for converting different types of measurements,
i.e. Celcius to Fahrenheit or Liters to Gallons.
Could be very useful for the forum.*twirlysmi
[B]http://www.megaconverter.com/mega2/[/B]
I use 2.5 Gallon buckets to drain the water. I have 2 of them (I think they were $0.99 from walmart) and fill them each twice using a gravel vac. Then I have a 5 gallon jug (like you put on a water cooler) I fill with warm water from the tap on the bathtub. I add the dechlor, shake it up, and put it in the tank. I like treating the water before I put it in the tank, rather than after - so I'm not actually adding Cl into the tank.
As for the differences between hot and cold tap water - there are none. All of the compounds and chemicals that are present in both. It all comes from the same place (but the hot water makes it to an extra step of going through your water heater). Before being promoted into the position I have now, I worked for a municipal water department. Most of the time people who called complaining about problems in their water, were calling about the dissolved o2 that I mentioned above. It is perfectly fine to use warm tap water. Do the glass test if you don't belevie me. Go fill a glass with hot water, and let it sit on the counter. Does it clear up? (It will as the oxygen escapes from the top of the glass). That's what we would tell people to do before we sent anyone over to check on the water.
As for the differences between hot and cold tap water - there are none. All of the compounds and chemicals that are present in both. It all comes from the same place (but the hot water makes it to an extra step of going through your water heater). Before being promoted into the position I have now, I worked for a municipal water department. Most of the time people who called complaining about problems in their water, were calling about the dissolved o2 that I mentioned above. It is perfectly fine to use warm tap water. Do the glass test if you don't belevie me. Go fill a glass with hot water, and let it sit on the counter. Does it clear up? (It will as the oxygen escapes from the top of the glass). That's what we would tell people to do before we sent anyone over to check on the water.
hello hello shaunna...24c is 75.2f...so we're both pretty close...
i see what a python is now..i just have a syphon...
i heat my 4 gall in a seperate bucket...
and syphon out 4 gall from my tank...
i am 'hoovering' the gravel only once a week...
when the 'new' water is warm...
i treat it to 'kill' the chloramine...
and then syphon it in...gently...
less stress for the fish...and for me...
i see what a python is now..i just have a syphon...
i heat my 4 gall in a seperate bucket...
and syphon out 4 gall from my tank...
i am 'hoovering' the gravel only once a week...
when the 'new' water is warm...
i treat it to 'kill' the chloramine...
and then syphon it in...gently...
less stress for the fish...and for me...
me too...
i let the 'new' water 'sit' in the bucket overnight...
to 'de-gas' ... i know it's probably not necessary these days...
but i do it anyway...peace of mind i guess...
maybe not where you are...
but i did a change once using the hot tap as well...
the water was full of debris...dust motes and specks of krapp...
every other change has been cold only...clear as crystal...
might be me pipes...who knows...i'll stick with the cold...
i let the 'new' water 'sit' in the bucket overnight...
to 'de-gas' ... i know it's probably not necessary these days...
but i do it anyway...peace of mind i guess...
maybe not where you are...
but i did a change once using the hot tap as well...
the water was full of debris...dust motes and specks of krapp...
every other change has been cold only...clear as crystal...
might be me pipes...who knows...i'll stick with the cold...
If there truly are things in your hot water that are not present in your cold water - you may want to think of replacing your water heater or hot water tank.
I would bet more than likely, you were deceived by o2 outgassing from the hot water. Try the test I mentioned above with the open glass sitting on the counter.
I would bet more than likely, you were deceived by o2 outgassing from the hot water. Try the test I mentioned above with the open glass sitting on the counter.