Water parameters in my Tropheus 150-gallon... feedback req'd

#1
This post is sort of a "follow-up" to my "What's the pH, gH, and kH of your water?" and "A question re: filtration, water changes, and Tropheus sp." posts...

Approximately 36 hours after yesterday's tank maintenance on the 150-gallon which was consisted of a 50% water change, completed by topping up my "SeaChem Tanganyika Buffer" and "SeaChem Cichlid Salt", my water parameters are as follows:

Please note I utilize a Hagen Master Test Kit which I received about a year ago, new in package. This kit was recommend by Petland as the one they use for customer water tests.

pH = > 8.6 (the chart shows progressively green shades, then blue... mine is purple!)

General Hardness [gH] = 300 mg/L (CaCO3) = 16.8 dH°
Carbonate Hardness [kH] = 500 mg/L (CaCO3) = 28.0 dH°

Nitr*tes are neglible, and don't even colour the test tube enough to match the lowest degree measured by the kit!

My 16 Tropheus Moorii "Nkonde" reside in the 150-gallon as the only residents. I did have 24+ Syno. Petricola (1.5 to 2.0 inches) that were sharing the tank but those have been moved into a 55-gallon and I am selling off quite a few of them anyway...

Assuming I am correct in my "vent" process and I have 9 males and 7 females, would it be reasonable to expect these guys to breed? When I had my Tropheus Black "Kiriza" as the colony in the 150-gallon, also with the Syno Petricola, they were breeding like crazy until I ran afoul in my maintenance and lost 70% of the Tropheus fry. The NKONDE have only had this tank less than two weeks, but would it sound like I am "good to go"? I didn't keep track of the parameters whiel the Kiriza were the ones who lived in the tank, so I am not sure what my conditions were that had them breeding.

I want opinions either way, so have at 'er! :)
 

Orion

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#2
Water wise it sounds great. You may want to get a High Ph test just to know for sure where your PH is at.

I've never kept the mighty troph's, but I was thinking that a ratio of more females than males was ideal. But I could easily be off on this.

Sounds like the tank is ready to go. It may take them a little bit to get commfy in the new tank well enough to breed.
 

#4
wayne said:
That is a wicked high kH. Why both tang. buffer and cichlid salt?
My parameters BEFORE buffering are as follows:

pH = 8.0

General Hardness [gH] = 180 mg/L (CaCO3) = 10.1 dH°
Carbonate Hardness [kH] = 230 mg/L (CaCO3) = 12.9 dH°

Sometimes the pH drops to 7.6 or 7.8 after the water "settles". The above numbers are tap water.

The numbers you referenced above in this thread is my buffered water numbers. :)
 

#6
OK... so a week after my last water change (50% on a 150-gallon) my water parameters are as follows:

Nitrite (NO2) = less than 0.1 mg/L
Nitrate (NO3) = less than 5 mg/L
Ammonia (NH3/4) = 0 mg/L

pH High Range = 8.4 to 8.6

Carbonate Hardness [KH] = 420 mg/L (CACO3) = 23.5° dH
General Hardness [GH] = 360 mg/L (CACO3) = 20.2° gH

Carbonate Hardness has decreased about 20%, but General Hardness [GH] has increased about 20% ??? pH is relatively unchanged.

So it would appear my tank is a well-balanced, cycled tank and it would not appear I have any overstocking issues. :)

16 x Tropheus Moorii Nkonde, 4 x Tanganicodus Irsacae, and 1 x Panaque Nigrolineatus. :)

Now, I wonder if I could get away going two weeks between water changes then? OR... perhaps cut back to 25% water change every week instead of the 50% I have been doing?