When is optimum time for water testing?

GIS Guy

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Feb 18, 2004
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#1
There are many threads about water testing. Unfortunately I have not come across, not to say there isn't, a thread explaining the optimum time for water testing. I am specifically asking about post-cycled tanks. To maintain a mature tank, periodic water changes occur. I am seeking to have the most accurate reading with the least amount of flucuation due to the water change process.

Here is my question:
Should water be tested (NH3/NH4, NO2, NO3, Ca2+, KH)

(1) before the water change?
(2) right after the water change?
(3) after the water additives have been sufficiently circulated after the water change, same day?
(4) after the water additives have been sufficiently circulated after the water change, same week?
 

Lotus

Ultimate Fish
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Aug 26, 2003
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#5
You really only need to test nitrates, nitrites, ammonia and maybe pH often, the GH and KH you probably only need to test once a month, unless you have a planted tank. I usually test before the water change. If nitrates are high, you know to do a larger water change.

What additives are you using, and aren't you adding them as you put the water into the tank, or in the new water you're about to put into the tank?
 

NoDeltaH2O

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Feb 17, 2005
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#6
As Lotus said, things are different if you have a planted tank. If your tank is heavily planted, or if you are int he process of turning a planted tank into a heavily planted tank, then I'd suggest testing more often, at least in the transitionary phase before you get into a groove when things become pretty much automatic.

When I start out a tank, since each one is fo different for some inexplicable reason, I test often, maybe twice a week at first.

Right now, about 2 weeks after a move from one state to another, I have only tested one of my tanks levels once. Testing is something that I VERY strongly encourage for all young tanks, but after a while, tests only confirm what we already know.
 

GIS Guy

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Feb 18, 2004
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#8
The tank is unplanted.
I add Prime as my water conditioner and Kents liquid calcium for my snail.
I had a bad time with the calcium level being too low and the side effects were showing on the snail.*SICK*

The ammonia and nitrIte are zero.
The nitrAte is way, way too high. I have been trying to reduce it for a while now. The feeding schedule has been reduced to 1 per day. It seems as tho the bio is maintaining the ammonia and nitrIte properly, but I am overfeeding and/or not doing water changes as frequently as needed.

Two fish have shown signs of distress due to the way, way too high nitrAte level. Actually, I am sorry to say they did not make it.:(
 

TLH

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Jun 27, 2005
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#9
I think it's also worth mentioning that if possible you want to test at the same time of day everytime.You don't get the variances then from day to day,light to dark cycling.Not that it makes a major change but it does make a change.