Is a RO/RODI system necessary?

#1
Hey Guys,

I have a 50g Clear For Life Uniquarium. Has a built in WetDry trickle filter in the back. I have decided to make the move from Fresh to Saltwater!!!

Anyhow I have been doing a lot of research. I want my tank to a Fish w/ Live Rock. I have read in order to have a successful one, you need a RO/RODI system, otherwise the Live Rock will die. Is this true? I guess I am just not sure how I am suppose to hook up a RO/RODI system to my whole setup.

Any thoughts? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

- Philippe
 

Helena21

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Oct 7, 2005
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#2
I first used tap water, and i got ALOT of algae, which is extremely annoying! Your LR wont die, but RO water is much water for fish and the clean up crew. Actually, all my snails died in tap water and theres also someone on here (cant remember who) whos snails also died in tap water.
Ive just got an RO system because i wanted rid of the algae.
You should be able to buy RO water from your LFS for quite cheap.
So overall, i guess you'd be ok with tap water, but RO is MUCH better :)
 

KahluaZzZ

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Jun 12, 2004
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#3
you LR will not die with tap water only, but if you wanna bang your head on the wall 'cause you have hair algae everywhere, use tap water ;)
You don't hook it up on the tank, you hook it under the sink to get clean water before it enters the tank.
 

TRe

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Feb 20, 2005
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#6
for the past few years i used the machine that fills up your containers at the grocery store for $1.50 for 5g but i just bought a 6 stage r/o unit for $100 that should be here any day :p
 

Lotus

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Aug 26, 2003
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#7
One good thing about an RO/DI unit is that if you get a nice setup, you can also use the RO for drinking water, instead of buying it at the store.

Some people use tapwater for FOWLR tanks sucessfully, but it probably won't work in a reef. It will also depend on your local water supply.
 

KahluaZzZ

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#8
hey Tre..if ( and i think all models are like that ) your sixth and last stage is a filter to remove bad taste and odor, don't use it..it leaches crap into the water. Only good when you drink it. It's an activated carbon cartridge that cannot be changed, stocking chlorine and po4 residue in extremely smalls quantities ( because it's the last stage ), but in a year or 2, will be filled with unwanted stuff..and if you can't change the cartridge..also it reduces the flow of your unit.
2 stores in here removed the 6th stage on aquasafe ro/di units, they sell it now as 5 stages..they simply throw the last one away.
 

KahluaZzZ

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#10
it's standard.. one output = just after the 3rd cartridges + ro membrane, the other and final = after all cartridges...still, the one you wanna use for your reef = the one where the final filter is the odor and taste cartridge...and you should remove that one.

The one on top = the baaad one
 

Lorna

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Mar 3, 2005
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#16
I usually just measure my tds and if it goes over 3 I change out my di resin.....my filter array is set for 10, 5, .50 then my ro then my di.......You can refill your di yourself and buy the resin in bulk costs about $5 a change...... I get it from these guys when I order my two part stuff

Two Part Solution, Discount Calcium and Alkalinity Supplies

Pcon you can use tap water but I wouldn't uless you test it first for phosphates, copper, and total disolved solids. Some people are lucky and have really good water and can use it straight from the tap but it is the exception not the rule. Reefs require pristine water but fish only is a bit more forgiving. Some of the things you can run into with tap water are numerous algae blooms and dead snails....
 

#20
Thanks for the links guys!

I have one slight problem though, I live in an apartment, so I know if I tamper with the piping whatsoever, they're going to have my hide. Is there a RO/RODI system out there that hooks straight up to the faucet? That was I can just run the water straight from the RO/RODI to a bucket (to make water changes) or the tank when I put it in the tank.

- Philippe