Is this med safe for all my fish?

[trailmule]

I believe I lost a betta to dropsy. Although when I found her this morning she was severely beaten up - missing entire tail fin, bit marks on her back etc... Her scales were slightly pineconed, but could that have been from stress? It must have happened over night, as everyone was up for dinner last night. She wasn't dead this morning, but passed away about 10 minutes after I put her in the QT. She kinda floated sideways, and toward the end, acted a bit "jerky" in her movements. Now one of the other females is not looking as well as she normally does and is lethargic.

I read that a good treatment for dropsy is a combo of Maracyn and Maracyn II. Will these meds harm the corys, ottos or the shrimp? If any one has any other suggestions for treatment, I would appreciate it.

 

[TabMorte]

Cories, Ottos and shrimp are ALL very sensitive to medication.

That said I've never heard of troopsy onsetting so quickly. You would have noticed her scales pine coning and a lot of bloating. It sounds like she got the crap kicked out of her by the other female bettas (they are extreamely territorial after all).

I would if I were you do a very large water change and while you're in there rearrange the tank a bit to distract the remaining bettas. Test all your perameters and get a good look at your females to see if any more show bloating, dragging tail or pine coned scales. Also examine their fins for bite marks and nips, and tears.

 

[GeraldTheMouse]

Since you have a QT tank, I would just move the effected bettas in there and treat them away from the corys and ottos and shrimp. And also do a big waterchange in the main tank just to be safe.

 

[Lotus]

A couple of things here. First, dropsy is more a symptom than a disease. It's a sign of internal organ failure. It can be brought on by bacterial infection, or a number of other conditions/diseases. You can prophylacitally treat the rest of the inhabitants, in case it was brought on by an internal bacterial infection.

Concerning medications and sensitivity: Most fish are fine with an antibiotic like Maracyn, although antibiotics can disrupt the cycle, and it's a good idea to keep an eye on parameters. Sensitivity in scaleless fish and inverts is generally to a few ingredients: Victoria (or malachite) green, methylene blue and copper. Those ingredients are most commonly in anti-parasite or antifungal medications. Always try to read the label.

 

[trailmule]

Well the purple female is lethargic, and her scales do not look good. Not pineconed and bloated yet, but not flat and shiny like normal. Underneath, between her front 2 fin, her scales are sticking out and it appears that bloating may have begun. They all have all fins and no bite marks

I moved the 3 bettas and all the guppies to my 2gal QT and began treating with Maracyn. Hopefully I caught what ever this is quick enough to save the purple one. The box said safe for inverts, but I'd rather be safe than sorry. I've gotten rather attached to the shrimp....

Can I do WCs in the QT? Or should I wait until the meds are finished. They were out of the sponge filter I wanted, as the tank was for a male betta before and I just did twice weekly WCs. I have some water lettuce, an air stone and some gravel from the main tank in there now... I figure a sponge filter would be better than nothing if I can't do WC....


Thanks guys!

 

[Lotus]

I don't think you're supposed to do a water change until the fifth day of treatment. Check the box instructions.

By the way, always do the full course of antibiotics so the bacteria don't build up a resistence.

 

[trailmule]

The directions on the back of the box don't mention WCs... I think I'll wait. Would it be a good idea to put one of the sponges from the filter on the 10g into the QT? It would have good bacteria on it that would help keep ammonia down until the meds are finished...

Thanks for the help Lotus.

 

[trailmule]

Edit: I am using Maracyn-Two, if it makes a difference...

 

[Lotus]

Yes, adding a sponge from another tank will help with the ammonia. Just remember to soak it in a weak bleach solution when you're done with the hospital tank so you don't transfer any possible disease back into the main tank. After soaking in bleach solution, rinse well, then put it in a container with a bunch of dechlorinator.

Maracyn Two will occasionally upset the cycle bacteria, so it's a good idea to check your ammonia and nitrites while you're treating anyway.

 

[HAAA]

Wow not that many female bettas are agressive first time hearing female bettas attacking each other most of the times is the male

 

[TabMorte]

Lotus, on a smiliar vein what's the differance between Maracyn and Maracyn II? I never know which is appropriate to use for what.

And Trailmule, how old are your bettas? Did you get them all at the same time?

 

[brian1973]

2 days ago you said in DG's post "No the females are calmer with eachother (though bestkept in 3s, 2 is often okay) as long as they have space to hide if one gets nippy.

The male is usually the instigator of any aggression"

I'm confused because you said his 2 female bettas would be ok in a 3g tank, now your saying they are extremey territorial and this is in a 10g.

http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/fre.../51149-new-3-gallon-planted-tank-journal.html

So basically no Betta can be in the same tank?

 

[Lotus]

The Maracyns are different antibiotics.

Maracyn is erythromycin, used mostly for gram-positive bacteria, usually recommended for columnaris and external infections. It also gets rid of cyanobacteria.

Maracyn two is mostly for sytemic/internal infections, dropsy (caused by bacterial infection) and septecimia. It's mostly used for gram-negative bacteria.

 

[iapetus]

The Maracyns are different antibiotics.

Maracyn is erythromycin, used mostly for gram-positive bacteria, usually recommended for columnaris and external infections. It also gets rid of cyanobacteria.

Maracyn two is mostly for sytemic/internal infections, dropsy (caused by bacterial infection) and septecimia. It's mostly used for gram-positive bacteria.

Do you mean to say that they're both for gram-positive bacteria? The context implies otherwise. Just checking to make sure.

I've really gotta do my research on the difference between gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria!

 

[pwrmacG4]

this is the distinct smell of trouble brewing! sniiiiifffffff.... yep... definately trouble! lmao

 

[trailmule]

In retrospect, the female who died was much smaller than the rest, but up until yesterday, there had not been a hint of a problem. They all ate together without issue and the little one kept to herself. The 3 bigger ones squabbled every once and a great while, but overall they were fine. That's why I was so surprised that they attacked her. I've had them all about 3 months... And about female bettas being aggressive, yes they are, but put at least three who are the same size and you should be fine.

So far everyone in QT is still alive, so perhaps there is hope. I will add a sponge filter insert from the main tank and go get a sponge filter. That way I am at least doing a little bit of mechanical filtration...


Thanks for all your help guys!

 

[Lotus]

Do you mean to say that they're both for gram-positive bacteria? The context implies otherwise. Just checking to make sure.

I've really gotta do my research on the difference between gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria!

Sorry, edited the post.

 

[TabMorte]

2 days ago you said in DG's post "No the females are calmer with eachother (though bestkept in 3s, 2 is often okay) as long as they have space to hide if one gets nippy.

The male is usually the instigator of any aggression"

I'm confused because you said his 2 female bettas would be ok in a 3g tank, now your saying they are extremey territorial and this is in a 10g.

http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/fre.../51149-new-3-gallon-planted-tank-journal.html

So basically no Betta can be in the same tank?

THey are best kept in threes because if you have two they'll often fight with eachother and the dominant one will always harass the weaker one.

They're often much calmer compared to their male counter parts and I know many many many people who have kept them together successfully in the right environment. That said you do have to keep in mind that they're the same size as their male counter parts and just as capable of ripping eachother apart if they get it in their head to. That's why I always advise that betta keepers who are keeping bettas in a tank together make sure there's lots of plants/caves/the like. Each female tends to stake out some turf of her own and keep to it (at least mine have).

There are personality differances too. And they are little fish with big personalities. For example my female in my community tank, Fiona, female or not she RULES that tank. She's the largest thing in it and no one gives her any trouble about anything she has her turf and even the other betta in the tank with her doesn't bother her when she's in it. Odd fish. She really is. My daughter's female though would be multched by my black skirts cause she's the most skidish thing ever and more mellow like the females in the fish store.

They're odd little guys (or girls in this case) and you have to watch them. I can see if one was weak. Maybe she kept towards the top of the tank and now she was sinking down to the bottom, trying to hide in a cave that was some one elses, that the one who 'owned' that corner, if she was bigger, would get a bit pissed and there'd be some issues. THen another would pick on her while she was wounded and so on and so forth.

 

[TabMorte]

In retrospect, the female who died was much smaller than the rest, but up until yesterday, there had not been a hint of a problem.

I'm glad that they're doing well Trail and that there's no more coned scales!

I've noticed that body size makes a differance in the whole aggression thing.

 

[Whiskers]

How do you all feel about Melafix ? I've used it a few times and had good results. Looking for pros and cons.