A newb with a tank - watchout!

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#21
5 gold tetras (I love the schooling they do)
1 Betta - great fish - keeps everyone in line
1 Rainbow shark (bought him a cave and he loves it in there)
1 pleco cat fish that sucks on the glass and everything else.
2 Peppered Corys (called John and ponch) they clean side by side
1 GloFish (the only one of the original three still alive - very active fish)
1 Orange and black fish - no idea what it is but it looks cool - poos are a mile long!
Since everyone talked about proper tank size and maintainence, let's talk about the fish!
1 inch per gallon rule is great, however when properly calculating bioload you can sometimes beat this rule quite easily, considering where your fish like to hang out. (top/mid/bottom dwellers)
-You're betta will probably be a mid/top dweller since it surfaces for air.
-Your pleco is a bottom feeder/ on the glass and objects
-The rainbow shark is a bottom feeder, and it is VERY territorial. Although it's not as nasty as a redtail shark thank goodness for you :D. Note it is a semi-aggressive fish, and pretty much every other fish you have in there is a peaceful community fish. It should be okay though given in the future you do not put another rainbow in, they can't get along with their own kind (this applies to redtail sharks, I think it does too for rainbows, someone will correct me if i'm wrong) The reason why they can't coexist with redtail sharks is that they confuse each other for the same species (the tail).
-if your 'orange and black fish' is what I think it is, it is a gold fish. goldfish are recommended lots of tank space because they are pigs. They will never stop eating if foods abundant, and they will pee and poo more than half your fish combine! (the little ones that is). Plus goldfish are coldwater fish, most of yours are tropical hmmm... In this case best to let the goldfish adjust to the warmer temps since they can take it. If it is not a goldfish please disregard this part.

Now let's go back to the 1 inch per gallon rule and the 3 parts of the tank fish dwell in. This is my original though process btw, as it seems to make very good sense. Aside from knowing proper tank capacity based on bioload, you should understand tank space. You could have the right tank capacity of fish but it wouldn't be cool if they were all bottom feeders, everyone will get in each others way (and if you have a semi aggressive like the rainbow shark) he will get irritated by all the other bottom feeders in his territory). You also don't want a mass of mid dwellers, it might cause the weaker ones to become top/bottom dwellers. Nothing bad may be noticeable, but if they are taken out of their habitual elements, well you can't gaurantee they will live life to its fullest (growth/happiness). If you can formulate a community of fish where you have the max allowed for bottom/mid/top dwellers, then you can beat the rule of thumb for inch per gallon, given you do exceptional tank maintainence. Another thing to care for is the kind of room your fish need. Some fish aren't all that active, others need tons of swimming room. (I have tiger barbs that will bounce off the walls and frantically swim when cramped, I know this because I punished a bully and put him in a pitcher of water for an hour for being bad). IE: I have a 20G long tank and I'm sure my barbs would hate anything short of 3feet long because they love to swim and school (end to end). Width of tank would be important persay for fish with more girth and such. Just consider the mobility of your fish to correlate proper tank dimensions, not just volume.

This was a long post to read I know, but I took in all the advice I got, nice and mean and I learned a ton, so I felt you deserved the same love!

GL With your tank SIR
 

#22
-Hmm... The 1 inch of fish per gallon of water rule is stupid.

-very carefully add aquarium salt (yes FRESHwater tanks can use small amounts of salt)

-water changes (which I honestly would do once every 2-3 days with this small of a tank and this many fish)

-Air pump for extra oxygen exchange.

-Clean your filter and media very often (which is kind of bad because you wont be able to build up good bacteria but with this many fish its needed)
- Well, if the rule didn't exist at all, people (especially newbies) would have no sense of what overstocking is.

-!!! I thought cories are sensitive to salt!! If you have to use salt, which I wouldn't see why, then mix it in some water first before you put it in the tank.

-I'd do a waterchange everyday. Or at least try.

-I was told the air pump doesn't actually halp with the oxygen level.

-You can also just rinse it off with dechlorinated water every two weeks, that saves you some money.

:D
 

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#23
- Well, if the rule didn't exist at all, people (especially newbies) would have no sense of what overstocking is.

-!!! I thought cories are sensitive to salt!! If you have to use salt, which I wouldn't see why, then mix it in some water first before you put it in the tank.

-I was told the air pump doesn't actually halp with the oxygen level.

-You can also just rinse it off with dechlorinated water every two weeks, that saves you some money.

:D
Yes, we should not be hating on the rule, because it gives us a good starting point although rules are made to be bent and twisted.
I don't understand the point of adding salt to FW either. I read somewhere it helps prevent things ilke ICH, but IMHO if you maintain your tank regularly salt is worthless.
The air pump (or airstones) don't really oxygenate the tank at all so you are right. I mean it might agitate the water A LITTLE, but barely. Really it justs makes tanks look prettier, although some fish like sitting in the bubbles, it's like a jacuzzi for them :D
lol I like the rinsing suggestion, I'd probably go with that one too
 

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#24
I think my tank is a decent example of fish comfortably living together, so heres my vid

YouTube - My Fish Tank

I really don't like my decoration set up though, I really want more hiding places. Trying to figure out where I can get long pieces of slate and w/e other rocks won't affect tank perameters. I think if my red tail had another hiding spot he'd be more happy, but the clown hasn't tipped him off yet

*edit - a photo if you're too lazy to watch the video
 

Last edited:
Aug 4, 2008
139
0
0
#25
I looked at a 55g tank. It wasn;t as big as I thought it would be...

If you think the 55g are small.. Go look @ a 75.. I can barely tell the difference between 55 and 75.

You see a 110gal tank. Those look just about right. :O

Heck, went to a fish store with a 1000 gallon tank.. It wasn't *that* big.. *BOUNCINGS

Yes, it's a wicked road we walk.

Lets see.. 110 gal tank * 8lb/gal ~ 880lb of water.. Questioning if the floor will hold that much weight.... How much lighter will the water be if I move to Denver?? *GOLDFISH*
 

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#26
If you think the 55g are small.. Go look @ a 75.. I can barely tell the difference between 55 and 75.

You see a 110gal tank. Those look just about right. :O

Heck, went to a fish store with a 1000 gallon tank.. It wasn't *that* big.. *BOUNCINGS

Yes, it's a wicked road we walk.

Lets see.. 110 gal tank * 8lb/gal ~ 880lb of water.. Questioning if the floor will hold that much weight.... How much lighter will the water be if I move to Denver?? *GOLDFISH*
hahahahahhaha when I buy my house I should just convert my interior walls to aquariums all around
 

#29
Yes to a few of the above:
Like Fishgeek said, you usually do not have to add salt to a tank. The only reason to do this is to fight an ick outbreak, and then you're adding a lot of salt. Some aquarists will swear by regular additions of salt some will not. I'm in the not category.

And like AlyKat said, O2 levels are increased with airstones. The bubles rise too fast to directly increase o2 in the water, but the agitation at the surface gets rid of built up co2 replacing it with the more oxygen rich air. This is why an HOB filter does the same thing. The water in an HOB filter is usually disturbing the water surface itself.
Your 3 gal probably is an Eclipse tank (since you've got a biowheel). That filter is as good as you'll get for this tank. I don't think it's worth putting more money into another filter. Put that money into the new tank. Honestly, the genius that is the Bio-wheel is probably the only reason that you've got fish alive in that heavily stocked of a tank.

I'm not sure if it was mentioned yet, but make sure you're using water conditioner when you add any water. My preference is Stress Coat, and with the stocking issues going on here you may want to look into it. It helps rebuild the fish's slime coat which helps reduce the chance of disease.

Jonathan
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
0
0
#31
Jedi,

I indeed agree that the bio wheel is to blame for my fish being alive.

Given what I have now read (thanks to you fine folk) about the whole crazy cycle proces thing...that biowheel is totaly wicked awesome.

DO they make 'em for a 55g tank? If so, I am all over it!


Jo3o, you are onto how I stcked this tank. With my limited knowledge and a quick read of the store tanks, I picked fish to fill in unused areas and add some purpose fish(pleco, corys)

This has made for a fun environment with space for all - ok I need a bigger tank - but mostly for allowance of the future growth of some of these fish (i didnt know they were gowing to grow!) and for the bio-load.
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
0
0
#32
that blacki and orange fish is a goldfish....i went back to the LFS to find out and to buy a thermometer and some other types of food for variety.

I do not like the goldfish. You described this fish perfectly.

It is a bio-load all by itself !!!

No more goldfish - ever!
 

#33
They make biowheels for just about any size tank you want.
You'll need to decide if you want to just focus on fish, or if you want to focus on plants too. A biowheel is great for just fish, but may not be the best thing for a planted tank.
There are a lot more things to consider if you're going to go planted. The good news is that you could always change things around later and as the budget and interest permits.
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
0
0
#34
I have thought about the planted tank thing.

Well.....I LIKE the idea of real plants BUT

from what I have read it may be too much water management and care.

I like-a da fish. Fake plants for me.


I've got my eye on a 30-40 gallon corner unit that will fit nice in the dining room.

Bio wheel is all me.

But I am curious - why isn;t the Bio-wheel magic good for the plants?
 

TAL

Large Fish
Sep 7, 2008
588
0
0
#37
It outgases the CO2, which is essential for plant growth.
Whixh seems to mean you just have to be adept at water management the old fashion way with that whole cycling thing and paying way more attention than I want to.

Call me crazy but I just wanna watch the little buggers swim and interact.

Anything beyond some feeding and basic care is beyond me. Hey, I have kids!!!

Ooo... did you hear that? I think my croisants are done baking....
 

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#38
If you want ease in a fish tank, I would def +++ recommend a larger tank that's understocked. Small bioload in big tank = less frequent water changes, and filter maintenance will be minimal as well. Fake plants are just as nice imo
 

jo3olous

Large Fish
Aug 6, 2008
909
1
0
Philadelphia, PA
#40
good god, 1G for a FW tank with the size your intending? I hope most of the funding goes to exotic fish lol ....

Might as well make way for a beautiful 75G - 100G tank you can get all the hardware for under 1k and still have fish spending monies