Raising ph/hardness while cycling?

[FishCrazed]

I have a 1.5g freshwater tank with a beta and snail in it.
It's been cycling for almost 3wks now.

The ammonia level are high,
so I'm doing daily water changes (very small/aprrox. 15%)
The temp. is aprrox. 78'-80'.
The nitrites are just starting to come into the picture, but
the ph and hardness levels are very low(ph/6.0 and hardness/below 25).
I've been trying to stay away from meds. for the fish(don't want to mess w/cycle).

Is there a natural way(tips) to raising the ph/hardness levels, rather than supplements?
And or should I just let the tank cycling without adding things to it?

And, do to the high ammonia level, is there something I can do to help my beta(gills, etc.).

If someone can help... It would be greatly appreciated!

____________________________________________________
CHEAP A*#$ Hasty(Walmart Tank Owner/But never again)
1.5g Tetra Tank (all in one setup)
Heater/Whisper Filter/Light/Gravel, Etc.
Beta
Snail

 

[FishCrazed]

Oh Yea, I've cut back on feedings to every other day/three times a week(while cycling).

 

[TMony]

I don't think I would adjust the ph while the tank is cycling. That being said, you can place a piece of limestone in the tank to raise the ph or use baking soda, but raising the ph with a high ammonia content in the tank will make the ammonia more toxic to your fish.
I would increase your water changes to a minimum of 25% or up to 50% each time. I would also recommend getting a bottle of "Prime" and treating the water as directed. It will not remove the ammonia or nitrites from the water, but it will bind it so it does not damage your fish.

 

[FishCrazed]

I don't think I would adjust the ph while the tank is cycling. That being said, you can place a piece of limestone in the tank to raise the ph or use baking soda, but raising the ph with a high ammonia content in the tank will make the ammonia more toxic to your fish.
I would increase your water changes to a minimum of 25% or up to 50% each time. I would also recommend getting a bottle of "Prime" and treating the water as directed. It will not remove the ammonia or nitrites from the water, but it will bind it so it does not damage your fish.

Thanks a bunch for your info...
Won't the 25%-50% water charge amount just prolong the cycling though?

 

[Orion]

Yes larger water changes will take longer to cycle the tank, BUT it's safer for the fish.

You've not mentioned anything that leads me to say anything about messing with the water chemistry. Why do it? 6.0 is low from the neutral of 7, but that doesn't mean it's bad for fish. 8.0 is 'high', but that doesn't mean it's bad either.

Let the tank cycle and get your fish though that OK. That's the important numbers right now. If you have a fluctuating pH that's swinging wildly though out the day, then you can worry about stabilizing the pH, but don't loose sleep over getting the pH up around 7.0. Having it stable is far more important than the assumed 'correct' number. Most general community fish and beta's will do fine in just about any tap water.

 

[FishCrazed]

Yes larger water changes will take longer to cycle the tank, BUT it's safer for the fish.

You've not mentioned anything that leads me to say anything about messing with the water chemistry. Why do it? 6.0 is low from the neutral of 7, but that doesn't mean it's bad for fish. 8.0 is 'high', but that doesn't mean it's bad either.

Let the tank cycle and get your fish though that OK. That's the important numbers right now. If you have a fluctuating pH that's swinging wildly though out the day, then you can worry about stabilizing the pH, but don't loose sleep over getting the pH up around 7.0. Having it stable is far more important than the assumed 'correct' number. Most general community fish and beta's will do fine in just about any tap water.

Thanks Orion!

 

[Avalon]

I always find it interesting that a pH higher than 7.0 is considered "ok," but a pH lower than 7.0 is considered "bad." When cycling, a lower pH (than 7.0) is actually beneficial. Water doesn't need a buffer. It simply needs to be kept stable. There are no such thing as pH swings unless you cause it. Don't do anything to make it happen and you will be fine.

 

[Orion]

Heh, that's a good point Avalon. (Not trying to drag FishCrazed down here) I can't recall how many people with a pH of 6.5-6.9 who want to bring it up to 7.0 just because. Shoot, back in the day when I didn't know any better I tried my best to do the same with those stupid little bottles of 'PH UP' and 'PH DOWN'. LOL, It's amazing any of my fish from those day's survived.

We all got to learn somewhere pH isn't all that important as long as you keep up on regular maintenance. I couldn't tell you when the last time I checked any of my tanks pH.

 

[merc1500]

well fish crazed i got the same tank setup that i set up on the 21st of jan with a female betta (melanie) im hoping for the best i feed lightly and plan to do weekly 25 percent water changes and monitor the chemicals. i think if you keep the ammonia below 1.0 and use the prime stuff youll be fine thats what i have been doing on my screw up ten gallon too many too fast. i test the water every other day and im doing 25 percent water changes and no loses.


oh i have a qustion for you. does your filtwer bubble over like mine used to.

 

[FishCrazed]

well fish crazed i got the same tank setup that i set up on the 21st of jan with a female betta (melanie) im hoping for the best i feed lightly and plan to do weekly 25 percent water changes and monitor the chemicals. i think if you keep the ammonia below 1.0 and use the prime stuff youll be fine thats what i have been doing on my screw up ten gallon too many too fast. i test the water every other day and im doing 25 percent water changes and no loses.


oh i have a qustion for you. does your filtwer bubble over like mine used to.

No, it doesn't bubble over... it whispers like a smooth faucet