29 Gallon Newbie

[Robin's Nest]

Hi,
So happy I found this great forum. Sadly, not before I cycled the new set-up. The good news is it's been 2 months and the 3x Giant Danio's (alias the 3 amigos) survived. The only real problem I had was when I tried to adjust my ph of 7.6 with Proper Ph 7.0 (on advice from LFS) only to end up right back where I started. With the addition of cloudy water and death to a live plant. After reading this forum and other sites I have since learned to leave the ph alone. I am not a chemist!

Now my questions:
I went to Aqadvisor and put the following tank together with my parameters
3x Giant Danio's
1x Upside Down Cat
5x pygmy cory
2x Dwarf Gourami Male/Female
5x Harlequin Rasbora

Are there an potential aggression problems with this combo?
When adding schooling fish is it safe to add all 5 breaking the rule of adding only 2 - 3 fish at a time?

I would love input. My goal is a healthy and happy mix.

 

[JRB__]

When adding schooling fish is it safe to add all 5 breaking the rule of adding only 2 - 3 fish at a time?

I would love input. My goal is a healthy and happy mix.

I can't see it being to big of a deal adding 5 at the same time. Especially with smaller fish. I would simply give the bacterial colonies a little longer than normal to cope with the increased bio load as compared to adding 2-3 at a time.

 

[bassbonediva]

I bought an upside down cat by mistake (was sold to me as a "small pleco"). He was constantly hiding when he was buy himself, but now that he has two friends (who are both upside down cats and about his same size, which is ~1in) he's much happier and they're all really active. It's hard to tell who is happier to have more little fishes: the upside down cats or the oto cats (they're all about the same size for now). So, what I'm trying to get at is upside down cats are happier in groups.

 

[OrangeCones]

death to a live plant.

Do you know the name of the plant that has died? Many LFS sell plants that are not true aquatic plants to unsuspecting fish tank owners. Just want to make sure you don't replace it with the same down the road if it wasn't destined to make it in an aquarium anyway

 

[brian1973]

looks good as long as you do have a female and male gourami pair. I would love to see a pic of your female since I have never seen one sold in any LFS in the areas I have lived.

 

[no.1chuy]

ive never seen females for sale either i wonder if they will try to breed??

 

[Doomhed]

ive never seen females for sale either i wonder if they will try to breed??

the females are more subdued and rusty in color usually. many LFS's have been known to call male and female dwarf gouramis different species because of color differences. they are bubblenest builders just like bettas, so you have to breed them in the same conditions...hot, dark, still water.

 

[tom91970]

I would not worry about adjusting the pH. Your LFS will just make money selling you what you really don't need. Most fish adapt with no problem, but if your pH is constantly going up and down that would create more of a problem than anything.

 

[ValRasbora]

it thought that you could tell the gender of gourami by looking at the anal fin, the male's is pointed and the female's in rounded

 

[Doomhed]

it thought that you could tell the gender of gourami by looking at the anal fin, the male's is pointed and the female's in rounded

not really, it is totally by color. half the time the gouramis they sell as " electric dwarfs" are males and the ones sold as " dwarf chocolates" are females.

 

[Robin's Nest]

Do you know the name of the plant that has died?

My son has the exact same plant and setup and his is thriving. I still think it was the Proper PH 7.0. It just died too quick. If not for that I would agree with you.

 

[Robin's Nest]

I would not worry about adjusting the pH. Your LFS will just make money selling you what you really don't need. Most fish adapt with no problem, but if your pH is constantly going up and down that would create more of a problem than anything.

After reading all the replies from this post I felt confident about my selection and tank cycle. I tested my tank with the API Master Test Kit and recorded the following reading: PH 7.6 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0
Just to be sure I took a water sample to LFS and they (using test strips) tested the water and said my PH was 8.4 and my Alkalinity was way high. I explained I used a different test kit and the type. They attempted to push the idea that I use a water softner and ph down to adjust my tank. After a back and forth discussion and my not willing to get in the ph adjustment nightmare they offered one last sollution - water changes with spring water.
Now, with my test readings and their results having such a vast differance, should I make any changes and follow this advice? I have read in several post that the test strips are not as reliable that is why I invested in the Master test kit. I most say my 3x Giant Danio's are thriving and happy.
Your experience and input would help me greatly. Thank you*SUNSMILE*

 

[ValRasbora]

not really, it is totally by color. half the time the gouramis they sell as " electric dwarfs" are males and the ones sold as " dwarf chocolates" are females.

that's interesting. I thought it was sorta like guppies, the females are generally dull, but it helps to check their anal fin.

 

[ErnieB]

I wouldnt trust the LFS strip test results. I would check yours again using the high ph test to see what results you get. The regular only goes to the 7.6 so if it was a darker shade of blue it may be higher. But in the end i would trust your results from the master kit ( especially since your fish are doing fine )

After reading all the replies from this post I felt confident about my selection and tank cycle. I tested my tank with the API Master Test Kit and recorded the following reading: PH 7.6 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0
Just to be sure I took a water sample to LFS and they (using test strips) tested the water and said my PH was 8.4 and my Alkalinity was way high. I explained I used a different test kit and the type. They attempted to push the idea that I use a water softner and ph down to adjust my tank. After a back and forth discussion and my not willing to get in the ph adjustment nightmare they offered one last sollution - water changes with spring water.
Now, with my test readings and their results having such a vast differance, should I make any changes and follow this advice? I have read in several post that the test strips are not as reliable that is why I invested in the Master test kit. I most say my 3x Giant Danio's are thriving and happy.
Your experience and input would help me greatly. Thank you*SUNSMILE*

 

[Newman]

yea its likely that if you test with the high pH test youll come up with something around 8pH.
using spring or Distilled water will just lower your KH, and soften your water. i dont recommend it if your tap water's pH is around 8.

 

[tom91970]

Here is a good article for you to read: Adjusting pH in the Freshwater Aquarium - Article at The Age of Aquariums - Tropical Fish

I have included some quotes that summarize what I wrote earlier that prove my point. Key parts have been put in bold by me.

"When considering pH, rather than having a goal of a specific reading, you should have a goal of stability. Although 7.0 may be the optimal pH level for a given fish, the same fish will likely thrive at a constant level anywhere between 6.6 and 7.4. It may even survive at constant levels between 6.2 and 7.8. It is the drastic swings which can occur in pH that we as hobbyists are trying to prevent. Our goal as aquarists should be to establish a very consistent pH level, even if that level is slightly outside the “ideal” pH reading for a given species. In other words, a constant pH of 6.6 is better than a pH value which fluctuates between 6.6 and 7.0, even for a fish which prefers a 7.0 reading"

"I would guess that 50% of the problems encountered in new aquariums are a result of the aquarist attempting to change the pH level. Few fish keepers actually need to adjust their pH. For the majority of aquarists your tap water pH will be adequate. The dangers of adjusting the pH incorrectly far outweigh any benefit you may receive by moving your pH a few points on the scale.

Remember, when it comes to adjusting your pH, less is more! Stability is most important. Routine maintenance is the key to keeping your pH stable and your fish healthy!"

I agree about the test strips; they are very unreliable.

 

[OrangeCones]

I tested my tank with the API Master Test Kit and recorded the following reading: PH 7.6 Ammonia 0 Nitrite 0 Nitrate 0

No nitrates indicates the cycle has not started yet. It can be confusing, so I would recommend that you re-read the instructions for the nitrate test and re-do it to double-check that result. And I agree to use also the pH high testing. My water is generally between 7.6 and 7.8, so I check with the high pH first. If it shows at the low end, I check with the low pH test.

Just to be sure I took a water sample to LFS and they (using test strips) tested the water and said my PH was 8.4 and my Alkalinity was way high.

Your experience at the LFS is just like mine was a few years back. I needed another kit and was looking at buying one there since they were having a big after-Thanksgiving sale. I brought a water sample for them to test and their test strips showed: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, pH 7.4. I bought the API Master kit and ran the same tests. My results were ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate between 5 and 10, and pH of 7.8. The guy then pulled another strip out of the SAME BOX OF HIS TEST STRIPS and rechecked. His results were: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 40+ and pH of 8.2.

I cannot say that the drops are more accurate, but they give predictable readings. I can retest the same tank 10 times and get the same 10 results. The LFS got vastly different results from the same water not 10 minutes later from the same box of test strips.

Stability is much much more important than 'ideal' water conditions. As long as your ammonia and nitrite are zero, and nitrates under 20 (some say under 40), the pH doesn't matter that much as long as its stable. If you get into breeding specific fish, it can matter, but for having a happy, healthy fish aquarium to enjoy, just let it be wherever it is. Any drastic changes just stress fish.

 

[jimv8673]

Messing with ph

Most LFS folks arent chemists either, or know much about keeping fish tanks either for that matter, they are there to make their minimum wage and go to the mall and spend it on XBox games. Messing with PH adjustments in an aguarium is akin to using a match to see whats in the dynamite box, Dont Do It !!. Most fish will acclimate nicely to whatever your tank chemistry is out of the tap, Minus the chlorine naturally if youre using water from a municipal water supply. In that case a de-chlorinator is called for, However that is to be done prior to adding the water to the tank, or simply keep a supply of top off, or water change water, somewhere for a couple of days so it can gas off the chlorine. But Never...Try to adjust PH in a running and cyced tank. Unless you enjoy, dead, or badly stress fish, and cloudy yucky water.