!50g frashwater tank
- Thread starter dwris
- Start date
Go here, its not directly for this size tank but you can read here to get started. http://www.myfishtank.net/forum/freshwater-beginner-information-questions/13406-iggy-s-tank-cycle-recipe.html
Cycling a 150 gallon tank
The size of the tank has nothing to do with the ammount of time it takes to cycle it. Using a fishless cycle is the quickest and most humane method and that is based on the amount of ammonia needed to complete the cycle, The bigger the tank gallonage, the more ammonie you have to add. The cycling time remains the same.
The size of the tank has nothing to do with the ammount of time it takes to cycle it. Using a fishless cycle is the quickest and most humane method and that is based on the amount of ammonia needed to complete the cycle, The bigger the tank gallonage, the more ammonie you have to add. The cycling time remains the same.
Since you're upgrading it sounds like you already have established media which will give you a jumpstart. Also, if you do indeed have a tank already running you can place your new filter media inside the tank (or filter) for a few weeks to establish a new bacteria colony. I keep extra filters in all of my tanks so whenever I obtain another tank I always have filters ready. None of that cycling nonsense for me!
cycling a 150 gallon tank
Or any size tank for that matter.
1. Set up your tank, but do not add any fish.
2.Leave the tank running for a few days to ensure that the equipment is working as it should be.
3.Calculate the volume of household ammonia required to raise the level in the tank to 4-5ppm. There are a few calculators on the web which require you to know the volume of your tank, the % ammonia in your solution (printed on the bottle, usually around 9%) and the ppm of ammonia required in the tank.
4.Add the required volume of ammonia to the tank.
5.Test the water every day, or every other day, for ammonia using a liquid test kit. Wait for it to reach approximately 1ppm- at this point the filter contains bacteria that break down ammonia into nitrite
6.Add more ammonia to raise the level in the tank back up to 4-5ppm. You no longer need to test for ammonia. Instead, test for nitrite.
7.Wait until the nitrite level starts to drop, continuing to add ammonia to feed the bacteria in the tank. At this point, the filter contains bacteria that break down nitrite into nitrate.
8.When you have 0ppm of ammonia, 0 ppm of nitrite, and a nitrate reading, your tank is ready for fish.
9.Continue adding ammonia until you add your fish. This will keep the bacteria from dying. Then, do a large water change (70-90%) to get your nitrate under 40ppm. Once the fish are added, continue to test the water for both ammonia and nitrite to ensure that no spikes occur.
Or any size tank for that matter.
1. Set up your tank, but do not add any fish.
2.Leave the tank running for a few days to ensure that the equipment is working as it should be.
3.Calculate the volume of household ammonia required to raise the level in the tank to 4-5ppm. There are a few calculators on the web which require you to know the volume of your tank, the % ammonia in your solution (printed on the bottle, usually around 9%) and the ppm of ammonia required in the tank.
4.Add the required volume of ammonia to the tank.
5.Test the water every day, or every other day, for ammonia using a liquid test kit. Wait for it to reach approximately 1ppm- at this point the filter contains bacteria that break down ammonia into nitrite
6.Add more ammonia to raise the level in the tank back up to 4-5ppm. You no longer need to test for ammonia. Instead, test for nitrite.
7.Wait until the nitrite level starts to drop, continuing to add ammonia to feed the bacteria in the tank. At this point, the filter contains bacteria that break down nitrite into nitrate.
8.When you have 0ppm of ammonia, 0 ppm of nitrite, and a nitrate reading, your tank is ready for fish.
9.Continue adding ammonia until you add your fish. This will keep the bacteria from dying. Then, do a large water change (70-90%) to get your nitrate under 40ppm. Once the fish are added, continue to test the water for both ammonia and nitrite to ensure that no spikes occur.
What's with quoting WIKI and and other "How To" type pages? At least give the original source/author credit. The above taken from:
http://www.wikihow.com/Do-a-Fishless-Cycle