The big cleaning.

K

kirizarry

Small Fish
#1
Sep 24, 2009
41
0
0
#1
I was wondering when or if I should do a big cleaning to my tank. I have 7 minows and 4 cories. I've had the 10 gal tank for over 6 months. I do 25% - 30% water changes every week. That's with the tank vacuum. The water is getting a bit cloudy and the numbers are fine. Should I clean the entire tank? How should I do it? :confused:
 

bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#2
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#2
I wouldn't recommend cleaning the entire tank (by that, I assume you mean stripping to down completely?). I did this with my 46gal bowfront a few times and it wrecked havoc with my parameters and my fish (this was before I knew better).

What exactly are your parameters? What are you feeding and how often? What kind of filter are you running and do you change the filter cartridge at all (which you shouldn't be doing until it starts to break down)?
 

K

kirizarry

Small Fish
#3
Sep 24, 2009
41
0
0
#3
Ok, I don't know what exactly the parameters are. It a standard 10 gal tank. I bought the starter kit. It came with a medium Aqueon filter. I change the filter cartridge every 4-6 weeks. I do 25% - 30% water changes every week.

I feed the fish with the flakes that came with the kit. I also have shrimp pellets for the cories. I just bought some frozen bloodworms but I haven't fed them that yet.

The reason I ask is that I'm starting to find glass with algea(?). A cloudy film that looks like soap scum. And the gravel is still a bit dirty even after I vacuum it. There's also white substance ( looks like calcium build up) around the heater and filter.

Maybe live plants? I don't have any right now.
 

xarumitzu

xarumitzu

Large Fish
#4
Jun 27, 2009
131
0
0
Kalamazoo, MI
#4
You should find the exact numbers so we can better help. But just from reading your post it sounds like your nitrates may be a bit high. Ideally nitrates should be 0, but anything less than 20 is good. Higher nitrates could explain the algae and possibly the cloudy water. As for the calcium deposits, as far as I know that's normal. I have deposits like crazy on the underside of my hood and I don't know a safe way to get it off.
 

bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#5
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#5
kirizarry said:
Ok, I don't know what exactly the parameters are. It a standard 10 gal tank. I bought the starter kit. It came with a medium Aqueon filter. I change the filter cartridge every 4-6 weeks. I do 25% - 30% water changes every week.

I feed the fish with the flakes that came with the kit. I also have shrimp pellets for the cories. I just bought some frozen bloodworms but I haven't fed them that yet.

The reason I ask is that I'm starting to find glass with algea(?). A cloudy film that looks like soap scum. And the gravel is still a bit dirty even after I vacuum it. There's also white substance ( looks like calcium build up) around the heater and filter.

Maybe live plants? I don't have any right now.
Click to expand...

Okay, no changing of the filter cartridge! lol You are killing your cycle when you do that. *crazysmil Read the post "High nitrates, new fish owner" by Imcharo (it's in this same subforum) to see why you don't change the filter cartridge. Yes, the manufacturer tells you to do that...why? So they can make money! If you change your filter cartridge, you take out the majority of the good bacteria that keeps your tank in balance and your fish healthy and happy.

Next, is the algae brown? If it is, those are diatoms and they are caused by overfeeding. Remember that your fishes' stomachs are about the size of their eye, so feed accordingly. The water is cloudy because your tank keeps going through mini cycles when you change your filter cartridge and remove all that beneficial bacteria. You're having bacterial blooms as the tank tries to right itself again. The white stuff on the filter and heater is pretty normal (at least it is on my tanks). I'm pretty sure it's just hard water deposits.

Live plants are AWESOME for helping keep your tank clean and balanced. Check out how many watts the light is on your tank and then we can suggest some that would work well with the lighting you have.

Also, if you don't already have a test kit, get one. The API liquid master test kit is WELL worth the money (especially since it lasts for 800 tests!). That way you'll know the exact parameters of your tank at any given moment.
 

Last edited:
O

OrangeCones

Elite Fish
#7
Feb 27, 2009
4,395
0
36
#7
xarumitzu said:
Ideally nitrates should be 0, but anything less than 20 is good. Higher nitrates could explain the algae and possibly the cloudy water.
Click to expand...
Low nitrates can contribute to algae also. An established tank is seldom at 0 nitrates.

xarumitzu said:
As for the calcium deposits, as far as I know that's normal. I have deposits like crazy on the underside of my hood and I don't know a safe way to get it off.
Click to expand...
If you can take the equipment away from the tank, you can soak it in vinegar to dissolve the mineral deposits.
 

xarumitzu

xarumitzu

Large Fish
#8
Jun 27, 2009
131
0
0
Kalamazoo, MI
#8
bassbonediva said:
Nitrates should not be at 0! :eek: They should be between 10-20ppm. Nitrates are the beneficial stuff that keeps your ammonia and nitrites in check.

Ideal water parameters are:
Ammonia-0ppm
Nitrites-0ppm
Nitrates-10-20ppm
Click to expand...
Thank you for the correction. I guess I didn't fully understand exactly what nitrates were. (How I made it to college surprises me sometimes hehe). That's why I'm going into aviation.:D

OrangeCones said:
If you can take the equipment away from the tank, you can soak it in vinegar to dissolve the mineral deposits.
Click to expand...
I will try this, the piece in question is the part that the light sits on with the food door. I could easily remove it and soak overnight.
 

bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#9
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#9
xarumitzu said:
Thank you for the correction. I guess I didn't fully understand exactly what nitrates were. (How I made it to college surprises me sometimes hehe). That's why I'm going into aviation.:D
Click to expand...
No worries! I didn't understand the nitrogen cycle and what nitrates/nitrites were until about 6 months ago, so it's all good. *celebrate And I bet you're smarter than you give yourself credit for! :D
 

xarumitzu

xarumitzu

Large Fish
#10
Jun 27, 2009
131
0
0
Kalamazoo, MI
#10
bassbonediva said:
No worries! I didn't understand the nitrogen cycle and what nitrates/nitrites were until about 6 months ago, so it's all good. *celebrate And I bet you're smarter than you give yourself credit for! :D
Click to expand...
Yeah. I've only been keeping fish for a little over a year, so I'm still a bit new at this. My talent is anything mechanical, if it has an engine I can take it apart and fix it :D Fish tanks on the other hand, still an enigma haha
 

K

kirizarry

Small Fish
#11
Sep 24, 2009
41
0
0
#11
Ok, here is what I got:

nitrate:30
nitrite: 0
total hardness: 25
total chlorine: 0
total alkalinity: 40
ph:6.8

Oh, I did post after, that I do change the filter cartrage every 4-6 weeks I just take the cartrage out and toss it and replace with the new one. I don't dump the water that is in the filter.

On a second note, one of my cories dicided to stop eating...
 

K

kirizarry

Small Fish
#13
Sep 24, 2009
41
0
0
#13
bassbonediva said:
Okay, no changing of the filter cartridge! lol You are killing your cycle when you do that. *crazysmil Read the post "High nitrates, new fish owner" by Imcharo (it's in this same subforum) to see why you don't change the filter cartridge. Yes, the manufacturer tells you to do that...why? So they can make money! If you change your filter cartridge, you take out the majority of the good bacteria that keeps your tank in balance and your fish healthy and happy.

Next, is the algae brown? If it is, those are diatoms and they are caused by overfeeding. Remember that your fishes' stomachs are about the size of their eye, so feed accordingly. The water is cloudy because your tank keeps going through mini cycles when you change your filter cartridge and remove all that beneficial bacteria. You're having bacterial blooms as the tank tries to right itself again. The white stuff on the filter and heater is pretty normal (at least it is on my tanks). I'm pretty sure it's just hard water deposits.

Live plants are AWESOME for helping keep your tank clean and balanced. Check out how many watts the light is on your tank and then we can suggest some that would work well with the lighting you have.

Also, if you don't already have a test kit, get one. The API liquid master test kit is WELL worth the money (especially since it lasts for 800 tests!). That way you'll know the exact parameters of your tank at any given moment.
Click to expand...
I read the other thread and now I'm more confused that ever. What is this pad that you stick and no cartridge changes? Can you explain this, I feel clueless!
 

Doomhed

Doomhed

Large Fish
#14
Feb 11, 2003
687
0
0
41
Rhode Island
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#14
xarumitzu said:
You should find the exact numbers so we can better help. But just from reading your post it sounds like your nitrates may be a bit high. Ideally nitrates should be 0, but anything less than 20 is good. Higher nitrates could explain the algae and possibly the cloudy water. As for the calcium deposits, as far as I know that's normal. I have deposits like crazy on the underside of my hood and I don't know a safe way to get it off.
Click to expand...
cider or white wine vinegar. wipe stuff off, then rise it with tap water and pat dry.

mind you this only works on tank tops and tanks that have been broken down.
 

Doomhed

Doomhed

Large Fish
#15
Feb 11, 2003
687
0
0
41
Rhode Island
Visit site
#15
kirizarry said:
I read the other thread and now I'm more confused that ever. What is this pad that you stick and no cartridge changes? Can you explain this, I feel clueless!
Click to expand...
the cartridge inside your fish tank actually never needs to be changed. Have you ever noticed that mom and pop pet stores almost always have big sponges inside their tanks? those are biological filters. if you change the filter, you get rid of the good, fish-waste eating bacteria that live there and you will cause harm to your fish. if you wanted to change the carbon, all you do is cut a small slit in the top of the bag and dump out the old carbon and replace it with new carbon you buy in a carton at the petstore. you rinse the floss a little bit in the old tank water when you clean the tank if it is clogged with gunk ( NEVER faucet water, old tank water).

I used to make my own filter bags with Ammo-Chem and activated carbon in a tied off pantyhose and put them in my double biowheel for my old 55 gallon tank and never change more than 1 of the 2 filters a month so I always had a constant supply of good bacteria.
 

Newman

Newman

Elite Fish
#17
Sep 22, 2009
4,668
0
0
Northern NJ
#17
that you do. it all depends on what you're using the carbon for. after a med treatment or soaking up tannins in the water, you should remove it after about a week when the waters all clear. if you're using carbon constantly to keep the water clean you should probably replace it every 3 months. it all varies on how much pollution is in your water at one time, so the carbon can be used up all in one day, a few hours, or if the pollution is continuous in small amounts then it'll last a few months.
 

bassbonediva

bassbonediva

Superstar Fish
#19
Oct 15, 2009
2,010
0
0
Northern Arizona
#19
That's right, laura. I usually only replace my filter cartridge when it starts to fall apart. One thing about using carbon (can't remember if I heard it on here or where)...you can cut open your filter cartridge and dump the carbon out. Then, you can put the carbon in a nylon stocking (like a knee-high) and stick it in your filter. That way, it's easier to change. :)
 

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