I'm considering a new filter for the future. I generally stick to the Aqua-Tech brand since it's the cheapest. I've been looking at an Aqua-Tech 30-60 to upgrade my 20-40. Many people are saying this filter is like a Penguin 330 without the bio-wheels. What are the benefits of the bio-wheels? I know it's possible to retrofit the 30-60 with bio-wheels.
Benefits of Bio-wheels
- Thread starter littletankbigworld
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The Bio-Wheel helps create another place for your beneficial bacteria to grow and thrive. Because the Bio-Wheel is pretty much the last thing the water touches before it exits the filter, it helps maintain the beneficial bacteria in your water column (small percentage of your overall colony) and in your substrate. I love the Bio-Wheel filters and would have them on all my smaller tanks if I could afford it.
As an aside, did you know that Marineland makes both the Penguin/Emperor filters (with the Bio-Wheel) and the AquaTech filters? Basically, you could buy the Bio-Wheel assembly and stick it on your AquaTech filter and VIOLA! Instant upgrade to a much better and more efficient filter!
As an aside, did you know that Marineland makes both the Penguin/Emperor filters (with the Bio-Wheel) and the AquaTech filters? Basically, you could buy the Bio-Wheel assembly and stick it on your AquaTech filter and VIOLA! Instant upgrade to a much better and more efficient filter!
You'll probably be able to find the Bio-Wheels easy enough (Petsmart and Petco sell the replacements), but finding the bearings and the rest of the assembly will be a little tougher unless you have mega-awesome LFSs that will order them for you or you can order it from the Marineland website. I have an older Penguin 170 (discontinued model) and I've been meaning to get a replacement Bio-Wheel assembly for it, but just haven't gotten around to it.
The cost of the Aqua-Tech media will negate any upfront cost savings over the first year compared to much better filters. It costs about $1.50 per month to replace the AT cartridge.
I use Aqua Clear Hagen AquaClear Power Filters | Power Aquarium Filters | Filters | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com for years. They are easy to maintain, their pumps last forever and you do not have to change the media, just rinse in treated water. The flow is adjustable and by adding in a little filter floss instead of carbon, your water will be spotless. IMHO carbon is not good for fish because over time, it begins to leech the toxins back into the water as well as create a nitrate factory.
I use Aqua Clear Hagen AquaClear Power Filters | Power Aquarium Filters | Filters | Aquarium - ThatPetPlace.com for years. They are easy to maintain, their pumps last forever and you do not have to change the media, just rinse in treated water. The flow is adjustable and by adding in a little filter floss instead of carbon, your water will be spotless. IMHO carbon is not good for fish because over time, it begins to leech the toxins back into the water as well as create a nitrate factory.
Only extreme swings in pH can cause carbon to de-adsorb what it has adsorbed. Carbon also has little ability to adsorb ammonia, nitrite and nitrate so will not contribute to the nitrate levels in an aquarium.
Once the carbon is exhausted, it can be removed or left as part of the biological filter.
In my opinion, unless you are removing tannis or medications, carbon is not needed for an aquarium.
Once the carbon is exhausted, it can be removed or left as part of the biological filter.
In my opinion, unless you are removing tannis or medications, carbon is not needed for an aquarium.
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The last carbon pad I had in my filter, I didn't change for a year. I only changed it when it got really clogged with algae and even rinsing didn't help. I always run the new pad back-to-back with the old pad to build up bacteria.
I read a bit more on retrofitting the 30-60 and it seems like a lot of work just ordering the different parts. I'm still likely going to buy the 30-60 and just not change it for a long time. I considered just buying a Penguin 350, but the filter media is ridiculously priced, and even if I only change the pad once or twice a year, the media is $20 a box. What do you guys think? Think I should get the Penguin anyway? I don't trust my Aqua-Tech filters since I had two break within a month of each other, and had to upgrade to larger sizes. The small ones tend to break easily and while the large ones are more reliable, they are clogged easily and need weekly to bi-weekly cleaning. I know Marineland makes both types of filters, but has anyone had better experience with Penguins vs. Aqua-Techs?
I read a bit more on retrofitting the 30-60 and it seems like a lot of work just ordering the different parts. I'm still likely going to buy the 30-60 and just not change it for a long time. I considered just buying a Penguin 350, but the filter media is ridiculously priced, and even if I only change the pad once or twice a year, the media is $20 a box. What do you guys think? Think I should get the Penguin anyway? I don't trust my Aqua-Tech filters since I had two break within a month of each other, and had to upgrade to larger sizes. The small ones tend to break easily and while the large ones are more reliable, they are clogged easily and need weekly to bi-weekly cleaning. I know Marineland makes both types of filters, but has anyone had better experience with Penguins vs. Aqua-Techs?
Ummmmm...you can put the AquaTech media in the Penguin filters. I don't waste my money on the Marineland filter media since it is literally the exact same thing as the AquaTech media and a whole lot cheaper. Heck, my Penguin 170 and AquaTech 20-40 look exactly the same except for the logos and such. They take the exact same media as well.
Chemical filtration does not become inert when used up. Because it is not inert, it will/may leech some of the toxins back into the water when toxins with more affinity are encountered.
The small particle size of aquarium carbon traps organic material that can not be rinsed out and will provide a continuous stream of nitrates from the rotting organic matter trapped inside the carbon.
But we both agree that carbon is not necessary.
The small particle size of aquarium carbon traps organic material that can not be rinsed out and will provide a continuous stream of nitrates from the rotting organic matter trapped inside the carbon.
But we both agree that carbon is not necessary.
I have an AT 5-15 in my 10 g and the filter media is garbage and last about a month before it starts falling apart or clogged so bad that flow is severely halted. The pumps on the AT's also get gunked up fairly quickly and further reduce flow and cannot be properly cleaned. The first one that came with my 10g lasted about 6 months before the pump burned out and the second one I got on liquidation for $5.
At the risk of sounding pompous, the small $10 premium for the higher quality filter is well worth it. If you look for sales, you can often find older AQ's on liquidation for less than the AT's.
At the risk of sounding pompous, the small $10 premium for the higher quality filter is well worth it. If you look for sales, you can often find older AQ's on liquidation for less than the AT's.