new tank fish dying
- Thread starter Aquarium Mom
- Start date
Did you cycle your tank properly? My first tank went nuclear on nitrites after about a month.
Most of the filter cartridges I know about are only supposed to last a month. I don't think you're there yet, but it wouldn't hurt.
How often are you doing water changes? Mollies don't like dirty water. I'm not sure about how tolerant the others are though.
Most of the filter cartridges I know about are only supposed to last a month. I don't think you're there yet, but it wouldn't hurt.
How often are you doing water changes? Mollies don't like dirty water. I'm not sure about how tolerant the others are though.
Some more information would be extremely helpful. Could you answer the following questions.
-Filter type/brand/size
-Number and types of fish in tank (please give specific species, as "catfish" includes more kinds of fish than I care to think about)
-Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels (preferably taken with a liquid test kit)
The bala shark(s) will eventually outgrow your aquarium, reaching approximately 13" in size and needing a MINIMUM 55gal tank, preferably larger, with a lot of swimming room.
-Filter type/brand/size
-Number and types of fish in tank (please give specific species, as "catfish" includes more kinds of fish than I care to think about)
-Ammonia, nitrite and nitrate levels (preferably taken with a liquid test kit)
The bala shark(s) will eventually outgrow your aquarium, reaching approximately 13" in size and needing a MINIMUM 55gal tank, preferably larger, with a lot of swimming room.
we have a 30 gl tank with 2 filters the frist is a neptune power filter model 20and the second one is 200 aquarium power filter art.ha-610 . we had 2 bala sharks 2inches each , 2 tiger barbs, 2 mollies, 1 orange neon, 1 gupie ,and a pictus catfish . we have 4 plastic plants, 2 bubble castles and 1 rock. our ph level is 7.8 and we just did a 50% water change sun.after we lost the frist 2 fish. we don,t have a kit to test ammonia and nitrate levels. we are on are way this evening to get one. this is my sons starter tank if he dose good with this tank Papa will give him his 55 gl ,thats why we started with little balas. so the plain is to get this tank going good then transfer to bigger and better.
It could be a cycling issue or it could be a pH issue. When I first started my tank, the bottom dropped out of my pH balance and I had to start using buffers to maintain the pH at an acceptable level. Water can sometimes settle, and in settling, lose minerals or ions that are maintaining a given pH level. It can be a nasty trick your aquarium plays on you.
For instance, my tap water is ridiculously soft, with only 1 or 2 degrees of resident kH (carbonate hardness) and general hardness. The kH measures the ability of your water to withstand ionic changes and moderate pH swings. If you want to rule-out this possibility, find out if your water is too soft to sustain pH.
For instance, my tap water is ridiculously soft, with only 1 or 2 degrees of resident kH (carbonate hardness) and general hardness. The kH measures the ability of your water to withstand ionic changes and moderate pH swings. If you want to rule-out this possibility, find out if your water is too soft to sustain pH.
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Well everyone has covered everything but I want to reiterate the following points.
Your most important test kits are Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia. Ph is fine at 7.8 and stable PH is more important than having some "ideal" number. I would also recommend the API master kit and I recommend using Prime as your dechlorinator.
I change out my filter inserts when I notice a drop in flow from the filter, I agree with Bass and wouldnt change that.
EDIT: I have to ask since we were apparently posting at the same time, the OP says their PH is 7.8 and the tank has been set up for a month, were would the PH issue be?
Your most important test kits are Nitrate, Nitrite, and Ammonia. Ph is fine at 7.8 and stable PH is more important than having some "ideal" number. I would also recommend the API master kit and I recommend using Prime as your dechlorinator.
I change out my filter inserts when I notice a drop in flow from the filter, I agree with Bass and wouldnt change that.
EDIT: I have to ask since we were apparently posting at the same time, the OP says their PH is 7.8 and the tank has been set up for a month, were would the PH issue be?
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7.8 ph should be good for most of those fish.
Edit: I wish there was a preview button to see if someone new posted.
You can also take your water into the local fish store or chain and they can test your water for you. Be wary if they pull out a bottle of test strips though. Those aren't always accurate.
Did you add water conditioner to the water to neutralize the chlorine?
Is the water temp okay?
Is one of the fish harassing the others?
Edit: I wish there was a preview button to see if someone new posted.
You can also take your water into the local fish store or chain and they can test your water for you. Be wary if they pull out a bottle of test strips though. Those aren't always accurate.
Did you add water conditioner to the water to neutralize the chlorine?
Is the water temp okay?
Is one of the fish harassing the others?
we went to the fish store tonight they tested our water nierite were off the charts . they said to do 20gl water change and and strees coat at 5ml per 10 gl.and and aquarium salt 1table spoone per 5gl. so that is what we have just finished and we also changed the charcoal bag in second filter and added bactirea bag to this filter also . after all this we checked levels and only a small change so we are hoping tomarrow will bring a good change .if you can think of and thing else please let us know . i really appretitate the help.
It sounds like you're on the right track. It looks like you're doing a "fish in" cycle. The water probably won't change overnight, but it will eventually roll over to nitrates. Good luck on your remaining fish. The salt and stress coat should help. If you don't have a bubbler/aerator yet you might want to look into that. High nitrites can cause gill burn and make it harder for them to breathe. Adding some extra air "may" help that. (I'm saying "may" here because it "may" also be useless to add air for a fish that can't breathe anyway.)
Good luck.
Good luck.
Forget the salt, no need. Did you get the test kit? The one with the test tubes? IF so shake the living bajesus out of the bottles, especially Nitrate #2! I would also test your tap water so you know what you are putting in the tank. I would also continue to do at least 50% water changes daily until the Nitrites are down to 0.
+1 on Dylandrewsdad. The salt is useless. The best thing to get is called Prime. It's by a company called Seachem. It detoxifies ammonia in all its forms (ammonia, nitrites and nitrates).
The main priority is getting your tank cycled (it sounds like you're about halfway there). After that we can worry about your stocking issues (of which you have many).
To give you something to think about for when your tank gets cycled, I'll give you an idea of what I mean by "stocking issues." As I said before, bala sharks don't stay little and really need to be in groups of 5 or more to be happy. They reach 13"+ and need A LOT of swimming space (minimum recommended tank for ONE bala shark is 55gal). The tiger barbs should really be in groups of five or more to prevent/reduce aggression toward other fish. I have seven in my 29gal tank and they keep to themselves, however in smaller numbers they can be aggressive. Your lone neon really should be in a school of 5 or more, again with larger numbers being preferred. They are very much "prey" fish and just as horses feel safer in a herd, so neons feel safer in a school, especially with the predatory fish you have in your tank. The mollies are fine, as is the guppy. Just be aware that male guppies are randy little cusses and if you have a male guppy, he will try to mate with anything and everything that is remotely livebearer and female (meaning your mollies, if either or both of them are female). Pictus catfish get to be 6" and will pretty much eat anything they can fit in their mouths (meaning your neon, your guppy and your mollies...and maybe even your tiger barbs since tiger barbs only get to be about 2.5-3").
The main priority is getting your tank cycled (it sounds like you're about halfway there). After that we can worry about your stocking issues (of which you have many).
To give you something to think about for when your tank gets cycled, I'll give you an idea of what I mean by "stocking issues." As I said before, bala sharks don't stay little and really need to be in groups of 5 or more to be happy. They reach 13"+ and need A LOT of swimming space (minimum recommended tank for ONE bala shark is 55gal). The tiger barbs should really be in groups of five or more to prevent/reduce aggression toward other fish. I have seven in my 29gal tank and they keep to themselves, however in smaller numbers they can be aggressive. Your lone neon really should be in a school of 5 or more, again with larger numbers being preferred. They are very much "prey" fish and just as horses feel safer in a herd, so neons feel safer in a school, especially with the predatory fish you have in your tank. The mollies are fine, as is the guppy. Just be aware that male guppies are randy little cusses and if you have a male guppy, he will try to mate with anything and everything that is remotely livebearer and female (meaning your mollies, if either or both of them are female). Pictus catfish get to be 6" and will pretty much eat anything they can fit in their mouths (meaning your neon, your guppy and your mollies...and maybe even your tiger barbs since tiger barbs only get to be about 2.5-3").
good morning tested water after 15hours nitrite are still 2.0 -5.0 so i just did another water change 20gl . after tesring looks hopeful . but we lost our mollies the barbs are fighting strong looks like one may make it keeping are fingers crossed . so may next question with all the water changes how will build up enough bactiera and slime to keep our fish going. if every time we change a filter this may happen and i forgot ammonia levels and nitrates are and did stay safe only are nitrite are out of control