Seachem's Fresh Trace, Seachem's Equilibrium, OR Kent Marine's R/O right? WHO KNOWS T

[michaelg210]

Can anyone tell me the difference between these products, or even Seachem's equilibrium and Kent's R/O Right? I am using R/O water and wish to know what is best for restoring minerals, trace elements, and general water hardness..... i know nothing about chemistry, so simple explainations if possible pls. Thanks in advance:

http://www.kentmarine.com/products/kent-liquid-ro-right.htm

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/FreshTrace.html

http://www.seachem.com/Products/product_pages/Equilibrium.html

Kent Marine will not disclose anything beyond the MSDS which simply has:

Ingredient Name - (CAS Number) - %
CALCIUM SALTS (10043-52-4) < 0 - 20
CARBONIC SALTS (144-55- < 0 - 20
MAGNESIUM SALTS (7786-30-3) < 0 - 20
SODIUM SALTS (7647-14-5) < 0 - 40
SULFATES (7757-82-6) < 0 - 20



I even emailed tech support, in short their reply:

This is the extent of what I am able to give out except that a major part of the salts in the product is sodium chloride as this is the highest occurring salt found in nature. The specific ingredients are held proprietary. I am not even allowed to see the breakdown formula.

(Bold is mine, but Seachem claims Sodium Chloride is bad)

Seachem Fresh Trace: Guaranteed Analysis
Calcium (min)
2.40%

Calcium (max)
2.64%

Magnesium (min)
0.792%

Iodine (min)
.1%

Potassium (min)
0.1%

Copper (min)
0.032 mg

Fluorine (max)
0.001 mg

Iron (min)
0.007 mg

Manganese (min)
0.002 mg

Selenium (min)
0.000006 mg

Zinc (min)
0.007 mg

Ingredients: calcium chloride, magnesium chloride, potassium iodide, copper sulfate, iron sulfate, zinc sulfate, manganese sulfate, sodium fluoride, selenium AAC



Seachem Equilibrium (probably a more fair comparison to Kent's R/O)

Guaranteed Analysis

Soluble Potassium (K20)
23.0%

Calcium (Ca)
8.06%

Magnesium (Mg)
2.41%

Soluble Iron (Fe)
0.11%

Soluble Manganese (Mn)
0.06%

Derived from: potassium sulfate, calcium sulfate, magnesium sulfate, ferric sulfate, manganese sulfate.

Elemental potassium is present at a concentration of 195,000 ppm (19.5%). Archaic fertilizer laws force us to list potassium in terms of equivalence to a material that is not present (K2O) rather

Unlike competing products, Equilibrium contains NO SODIUM CHLORIDE. Both sodium and chloride are not rapidly depleted elements in a planted aquarium, and, in the case of chloride, can do more harm than good. Competitors’ products generally contain primarily sodium chloride (because it is inexpensive)....

 

[Newman]

simple explanation:
When you add those supplements in proportion to the gallons of R/O water that you have , you will be adding GH. both supplements (equilibrium and kent) strive to do the same thing.

The seachem trace supplement is also not bad to use when using only R/O water. this gives trace elements to the water, similarly to what the GH boosters give.

Questions from me:
What species of fish are you trying to house using this R/O water?
Usually you can avoid using these supplements( because they can get expensive) if you base your fish choice around the chemistry of your tap water...
But I am guessing that you have the following scenario:
Your tap water is too hard and you want to keep discus or similar acidic fish.

 

[michaelg210]

answers for you

simple explanation:
When you add those supplements in proportion to the gallons of R/O water that you have , you will be adding GH. both supplements (equilibrium and kent) strive to do the same thing.

The seachem trace supplement is also not bad to use when using only R/O water. this gives trace elements to the water, similarly to what the GH boosters give.

Questions from me:
What species of fish are you trying to house using this R/O water?
Usually you can avoid using these supplements( because they can get expensive) if you base your fish choice around the chemistry of your tap water...
But I am guessing that you have the following scenario:
Your tap water is too hard and you want to keep discus or similar acidic fish.

Actually, all this fuss is over 1 male betta in a 10g tank, contains gravel bed, heater, aqua clear 20 filter, 5 or 6 plants, crypts, java fern, anubia.

I am using R/O because originally distilled was reccommended to mix with tap due to Nitrates coming out of tap at ~ 20 ppm. Later found out, or at least beleived, R/O water both better and cheaper, and have been using straight R/O for the last week or two. Also, my tap water is very hard, (limestone, due to aquifier water source), and rather high PH, like 8.4... I do not have a water hardness test kit, need to get one, i guess, but our water is notoriously known for being hard water. Most people have water softners.... i do not because, there is a huge expense, in MHO, ..... but in the long run it is reccommended.

I already have 5Gs of R/O and Kent Marine's R/O Right. but thought trace elements are needed..... no one seems to be able to obtain Seachem's Trace, so I would have to buy it on line..... Other than that, only trace minerals I can find at LFS's are specific for - if i recall- chichlids.

I think the product i have on hand (i.e. Kent R/O Right) will outlast the life of the fish and then some...... would be the same with Seachem's trace...., so other than the initial cost, not such a big deal.... the R/O water is only .25 / G........ so very inexpensive......

 

[Dylandrewsdad]

With such small tank (just right for a Betta!) Why not used bottle water? You can by a gallon of water for like a buck or so.

 

[Newman]

I see so its for a betta? they can live well and even breed in water with high GH and KH and pH of at least 8.0 (because thats the water i was able to breed them in)

Key is clean water, which seems to be your problem? the 20ppm nitrates out of tap? 20ppm is not lethal to the betta and the plants will consume it over time anyway. your plants - fast growing ones are the answer to your tap nitrate problem. no real need to go RO. crypt, java, and most other plants live fine in hard water too, I have them. i even keep anubia nana in the same water.

Ok just read your pH is 8.4 out of *AGED* tap water? its a bit high but maybe your betta wouldnt mind. Are you also sure of that value? do you test it yourself with liquid testing? if you think its too high, why cant you do the 50% 50% RO/Tap thing for your 10 gal?

(If I was in your situation, I'd just go with 100% tap and not worry about it. just revert back slowly because youre already at the soft water point as i assume.)

 

[thefishyman]

I have used both, the RO Right dissolves much easier. I think they both are probably OK as fish can tollerate quite substantial variations providing you don't change chemistry fast.
Adding RO Right only adds electrolytes to the water. You need to add a PH buffer, bicarbonate, (dKH). Kent marine who produce RO Right suggest their PH buffer but the natural PH buffer is sodium bicarbonate. There is a excellent android app called “ Fish Tank Hardness” that has all the calculations for RO Right bicarbonate and both dGH and dKH so you can add Ro right to achieve a desired TDS or add RO Right to achieve a desired hardness value. It calculates both. But be aware the buffer bicarbonate will slightly raise PH as well as acting as a buffer. I use this app and its so simple I’ve checked it against my TDS meter ad it is correct.